Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

Any mechanical part and especially an electro-mechanical part will wear out. It is not at all hard to replace the brushes and lube the surfaces to get another ten years out of them.

Mikuni style carb REQUIRES slight vacuum to pull the fuel UP from the bowl. All the parts are cheap enough (used) so why bother with 'rigging' it?

A good battery, kept in good condition will never give problems.
If you have constantly dead batteries, look for trickle current that is discharging the battery or a bad battery that simply will not hold a charge.
After about two years, you can expect the plates to disintegrate slowly.

There is SOME power at all speeds.
When idling, usually not enough to charge the battery
High idle (on up) will put out sufficient voltage to charge.

Use a VOM on 15 volt AC scale.
Red lead to B/Y lead
Black to GRN

Kick start or use starter motor.
Should show an AVERAGE of 6 volts or more.

Actually any voltage reading will verify the trigger coil

The tube leading into the idle portion is not a 'jet' in that it can't be replaced. The actual jet is machined in the floor of the intake.
The main jet is replaceable and is usually a stock #62.

If the internal wires of the coil check good (input to input and input to high tension) [red] then the coil is good. Continuity check the following: FROM plug to CDI to : Blk/yel to coil (short) Blu/yel to trig coil (short) Grn to ground (short) Blk/red to B+ (+12v key on) Blk/white to engine stop s...

It would seem to me that if the bike starts good from a cold condition and once warmed up it fails to idle, the most probable cause is the choke not shutting the fuel off completely and it starts flooding. You could see this with a black or carboned plug. If the plug stays clean (tan) then you are s...

That question came up a year or more ago, probably on the old forum. I deleted it from my 'favorites' folder so don't remember the web address. Maybe someone that has the old forum address could check it out and post a reply here. Or msg me with it (the address) and I'll go through it and respond.

Thanks for understanding fellas (gals too).
Again, I'm really not a prude or anything but in this day and age, it's hard to get the young ones brought up to respect the feelings of others and the more they are subjected to negative things, the more they pick up (like a sponge I guess).

I think noiseguy may have hit on i. Check compression cold and again warm. See how much it drops. Drivetrain is still the most logical for vibration though.

My grandson is frequently here with me going over the posts. I understand your frustration Kikwear, but please clean up the language.
I'm not a prude by any means, just respectful of others.

Exactly, Kik - stay with the #65 and you avoid a lot of problems......

Sounds like the first thing to check out is the belt and clutch assembly. Vibration could be caused by bearings ready to take a nap or clutch pads really warn down.

Reed valve is good, I'm almost positive. I'm also NOT saying the pulley mod is what the problem is. Just stating that if everything else works 4.0, then the only thing left is the pulley mod.
Sorry for the confusion....