Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

Thanks for permission....I just spend 4 hours re-writing my SE50, SB50 and SA50 pages to correct a lot of stuff, improve the writing and include mention of this scooter. You'll notice a couple of your photos here:
http://www.motorscooterguide.net/page1/ ... age10.html

It looks like a Dio imported from Canada. Is the speedometer in mph or km/hr?

Either way, just use SA50 parts.

That's an excellent site; I have it bookmarked and refer to it frequently. Though it's told from a Canadian point of view, it's still a handy reference. Is that a pix of you standing next to the white CH80? You still own it? CaptDan> Thanks for the kind words. Yup that's me standing with the white ...

Nice pictures....thanks a lot for posting them. Can I use 1 or 2 on my website? (www.motorscooterguide.net) I came across another Elite R today on the Vancouver Craigslist. The seller claims it's an '86! Here are some pics he sent me: http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y210/dandurston/scooter1.jpg htt...

I love the Aero 125.....such a cool scooter. Here's a ton of info on it: http://www.motorscooterguide.net/page1/page8/page8.html The Aero 125 wasn't sold at all in Canada. I can't imagine Honda sold 6800 of these in the USA in just one year. That's an awfully huge figure. That's like how many Ruckus...

Thanks....that's very helpful. When I mod my next 2-stroke I'm going to grab one of those cylinder head temp gauges and do it right.

burnt_toast wrote:I always keep an eye on temps and haven't had it ever go above 400F, usually 350-380F when wot for long distances.

Is 400F+ dangerous territory? What is the highest temp you'd want to be cruising at for hours at a time?

Hmm....I'd rather buy one with nice plastics and a fixer upper motor than the other way around. Plastics are hard to come by, so the next owner will likely need to just be content with the breaks and cracks etc. Someone who is just looking for basic transportation and doesn't care about looks might ...

Hmm.....I guess it's welding aluminum or nothing then. Actually I could try bolting the case back together by making some sort of a frame/brace for it but that sounds really ghetto. I'm going to do some research into welding cast aluminum.

Are we 100% sure this case is aluminum? If your going with a ruckus and you want the two-stroke power, I would say swap the zuma or the mineralli. But a Metro with a dio motor would probably be a better idea. (that what I'm working on right now) It's definitely going to be a Ruckus and I want to tos...

Hmm....this isn't going to so good. The Ruckus drive belt is 18mm wide so that's not going to work. Does anyone know anything about longer 15.5mm drivebelts? I'm thinking now about using a horizontal Dio motor (AF35) instead of a vertical one so that it would fit better. I wouldn't really want to bu...

your going to have to drop some $$$ for a machine that will properly weld the cast aluminum, hope you have a heat treat facility too. welding unknown cast aluminum...yikes Good point....I'll probably just buy a MIG welder and use that for the custom engine hanger etc. and I'll leave the cast alumin...

Don't they swap the gy6 engines into the ruckus? Thats like 150cc stock. Yup but I don't like that swap. The GY6 engines are ugly, cheap and bulky. I could do a Zuma engine....that would make more sense for sure because it wouldn't require cutting the case and you can get a horizontal one so it fit...

My brothers stock Aero 80 had a reed break. Suddenly it wouldn't run so we investigated and found a huge chunk was missing. We just put on new reeds and kept rocking it

bakaracer wrote:The stock af16e belt is 641x15.5x28.

Now that I think about this a bit more I'm a little confused. Obviously the 641 is the length in millimeters but what are the 15.5 and 28? Is 28 the width and 15.5mm the thickness?