Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

You should be able to pick up a used hose from a parts bike somewhere down there. If previous owner disconnected the oil pump, be sure that he didn't grind the teeth off the end of shaft, or remove it completely.

The model/VIN sticker is under the floorboard on the left side of the frame. It is white with black numbers and letters (I think). SE50P (restricted/slow) SE50 (unrestricted/faster)

Finally got it! The air filter was WAAAAY to restricted. Honda no longer makes an air filter for a PA50, so I used one from a Spree. I cut it to fit and was still too dense. I sliced it in half and that was the cure. Runs great!

I'm working on a 1980 Honda PA50II and can't seem to get it to run smooth at WOT. It starts and runs great up until about 15/20 mph, then stutters for a few seconds, clears up a little, then repeats. So far I've put in a new spark plug, new air filter, Fresh 25 to 1 gas, new gas line with inline fil...

I ordered a new piston, rings, and cylinder gaskets. Turned out to be a faulty gauge that was causing the originally high psi reading. Rented a new one from autozone and got that consistent 70. So I'm gonna essentially replace the top end and hope for the best. Next step will be the crank seals if ...

70 is not good. Having two readings on compression that are that far apart is odd. Is your tester accurate? I'd pull the head and cylinder and check condition of piston, rings, cylinder. That's probably where you will find the problem. As for the crank seals, they are easy to change. No need to spli...

Could be the crank seals. I had one that wouldn't start and found the crank seal behind the drive pulley had come out. Also make sure that the woodruff key is in place on the crankshaft. If it's gone, that could/will affect the timing.

Here's an easy way to reinstall the front pulley/ belt/ and clutch assembly. Squeeze the clutch bell and the outer pulley of the clutch together as much as you can and put a small wood wedge between the pulley halves. Be careful, the spring has some tension. Loop the belt onto the clutch pulley and ...

Having to tighten the nut on the crankshaft real tight makes me think that when the front sprocket was put on, the splines on the crankshaft were not lined up with the splines on the sprocket. If they are not lined up when tightening, the crankshaft splines will be damaged. Check the crankshaft spli...

Nut size is M6x1.00. Very common size, any hardware or auto store should have them.

Check to see if gas is getting to the carb. Loosen the drain screw on carb and kick it over and see if gas drains out the bowl. If no gas, it could be a vacuum problem caused by a crank seal issue or bad petcock. Check compression. Check for spark.

The rubbermaid stuff used in horn cover or leg shield won't accept epoxy (though I have reworked panels with Bondo that held...) Those parts really need a plastic welder. You can also "reform" them with heavy gloves and a heat gun... heat part until soft, push to shape, wait to cool. Repe...

I've tried many glues, epoxies, cements, etc and NOTHING I have tried will hold the "slippery " plastic together when you put a little pressure to it. I purchased a plastic welding kit from HF for about $15 and it works great!(with a little practice) However, just melting the plastic toget...

Your starter may be getting weak or the bendix may be dragging. Check where the bendex fits into the cover that it turns freely. Also, others have posted that a side cover gasket will give it a little better clearance. Good luck.....time to ride.

Sounds like you've gone through everything. I'll add my 2 cents worth. Have you checked the carb float to see if it is within specs? You can't adjust them, so if it's not about 12 mm, it has to be replaced. Check that and also maybe replace the petcock with a new one. Hopefully you can get it runnin...