Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

Here is a photo and schematic though wasn't requested. The key chip is the T2295A.

I found the schematic of the PCB that Honda put on the Flush in 1983. It is built around a chip that was used in several makes and applications of tachometers. I can't find any discussion regarding the chip, found it in Japanese at some web site. I used a square wave generator input to it and with D...

I'm going to try some silver epoxy on the open carbon track and will report back. From MGChemical. I'll see if it is compatible with gasoline.

What clark5483 said about not opening the throttle during cranking I've proved to be true. Keep it closed so the "automatic bystarter" can enrichen the air/fuel mixture. Just takes a few seconds for it to start up. My Honda Flush has a dropping resistor in series with the automatic bystart...

If you mean first 4 digits of the serial number which helped identify it as a Honda Flush, it is AB19.

This is the latest photo of my Flush. I don't know which of the two Flush models Clivester mentions it is. Note the holes in the wheels which helped in its identification. Also found the serial number on the right side of the foot pad.

I have one of those Flush scooters. Found it 3 years ago. I think someone had one in a similar situation, no plastic, in 2008 at urbanscootin.com.

Want further details on what I've done to it? Haven't licensed but added lights, muffler, battery/electronics box.

My 1983 Honda Flush (similar to an Elite) came as a basket case to me and is hard to start. It came without a choke or choke plate. It does have an enrichening device that leans it out as it warms up. Do you users have chokes on your engines and should I make one? Note on photograph. It shows a cage...

I thought I would update this licensing thread as it relates to Washington State and my 1985 Honda Flush I found 3 years ago. Finally got it in running condition and searched the DMV data base and there is no record of its serial no. from the last 6 years. A new title will cost $16 and license/regis...

Relay Finally Taped Up.jpg Relay with Final Caps 1.jpg Photos show the two each 1000 microfarad capacitors attached with jumper wires outside of the relay and with them taped up. The nut on the new nail core of the relay is part of the L (Load) wiring and should also be insulated with tape or the l...

If one wants to go to LEDs and the current is half that of incandescent bulbs, the ampere-turns are thus half of what they should be. What to do is double the number of turns of L2 with wire about half the cross sectional area. Gets the ampere-turns back where they should be to match that of L1 plus...

I finally got the relay to work on my birthday last week. This is how it works. L1 is an inner coil of very fine wire that has several hundred turns and draws milliamps. Multiply both and you have around 140 ampere-turns. It changes its flux direction in the schematic as shown in a blue trace during...

Attached is a schematic I made of the rusty relay and the working relay with its blue capacitor. I still can't get the rusty one to work. I added more wire/turns to the thicker outer coil L2 and that caused the contacts not to open. I replaced the steel core of the relay with a nail so that the stee...

I disassembled and reassembled the rusty relay. But the relay works on magnetic principles and the changes in resistance of bulbs from off to glowing. The relay has two coils, one which changes in tensity as contacts open/close. The other reverses its polarity. When they add up the contacts open and...