Gyro - general thread

[Ptn]

the difference i see is a 14.7 diameter vs 13 diameter ... the scooter is slow enough as it is without reducing the size by 10%

when you say perform, do you mean handling or how long the tire lasts? none of these are really meant for the road ...

thanks

[motormike]

the difference i see is a 14.7 diameter vs 13 diameter ... the scooter is slow enough as it is without reducing the size by 10%

when you say perform, do you mean handling or how long the tire lasts? none of these are really meant for the road ...

thanks

It's true...reducing overall diameter will result in less top speed.
Of course, a 10% reduction of 32 mph takes you down to 29 mph,
which is not what anyone wants, but hardly makes much difference in practical application.
The performance improvement is in braking and cornering.
I have never had the opportunity to feel a NEW pair of the 5.30-4.50 X 6 tires,
so my opinion is based on riding my Gyro S when I bought it.
The tires were OEM's with a fair amount of tread remaining.
I replaced them with 15 X 6.00 X 6 lawn tractor front tires in a rib-tread design.
Then, I raced the Gyro with a MiniMotard group for two years solid, and a third year occasionally.
The rear fender was removed, so clearance was not an issue.
Since my Gyro became strictly dedicated to track use, street use application is not my strong point.
With the 15 x 6.00 x 6 tires, no loss of diameter, therefor, no top speed loss.
Fender will definitely rub with that size.
Here is a thread... I will share a LiNK with you...take a look and draw your own conclusion.

viewtopic.php?f=16&t=16962

[Gyroman]

Sweet. Love the racing stripe.

[nunnsie]

Thank you, it was the paint shop's idea and I thought it was spot on.

[Gyroman]

Thank you, it was the paint shop's idea and I thought it was spot on.

Good call. Like the basket too.
Never did get my 2d Gyro (red) working, but my 1st (blue) runs like a top. Although my parking brake gears (the ones that keep it upright) have gotten loose. Need to tighten something up, or something.
And in other news my '05 Majesty is in the shop, but I just aquired an '08 Morphous, and I'm loving it.
Scooters rule. Unique scooters totally rule.

[nunnsie]

Thanks again! I had a trunk before when it was red, but someone took a bat to it. There was nothing in to steal, but I guess kids will be kids. I bought a very inexpensive steel basket on ebay and sent it off to have it vinyl coated. While not mounted, I had the front basket also redone in black vinyl. I may or may not use it again, we'll see. My Gyro also had the loose parking brake issue. Mine needed new rubber bushings at the parking lock mechanism on the left side of the engine pod. There is meant to be a little play, of course.

I'm partial to the more "upright" scooters, but that Morphous looks pretty radical - congrats!

[catch22!]

Hi. new to the page and to honda Gyro's. Picked up a 86 S from a friend. I have seen it run, but he said it just stopped, so he sold it to me for $70. I have started the diagnosis process and with a full battery, have no signs of power other than I get a 7v at the horn. Power to and through the fuse.. I started by using the shop manual to check parts. Regulator has 9.2 ohm on the A/B side but nothing on the E/L side. So a new regulator is on the way. Would a bad regulator cause the bike to have no starter power? That seems a bit odd. I am good with rebuilding a variety of vehicles, but have not done any with the various electronics like the Gyro.

Other items I noted that I need clarification on. Should there be any gasket for the headlight? I did not find one on the bike, but it seems odd that the light would be open to water since the number of electronic connections behind the light.

Also need R110 paint for a few bare areas on the frame and for the heat shields. Local paint shop can't make it due to paint type restrictions in our county. Anyone have a close alternative?

I appreciate any and all input. Thanks

[motormike]

Gyro S headlight does NOT include any gasket fitted between metal headlight ring and plastic bucket.
Tail light must be operational as it serves to complete the starter motor circuit.
Brake lever must be depressed to engage starter motor.

[catch22!]

Thanks. I have a lot to learn about this machine.

[catch22!]

Good day working on the Gyro. Got all the electrical parts back on and connected (thanks RideRed). Starter turns over, blinkers work, brake light works. Oil light works. Only thing not on is the headlight (light is new). Does the headlight work if the motor is off?

Tomorrow, I tackle the brakes. Should have a new regulator and new coil/spark plug wire in a few days (old wire was disintegrating). Then I can work on getting it running.

I am also in need of a fuel valve label. Is there a source for these? If not, does anyone have a good picture of one and the size specifications? If so, I have the ability to get decals made and can provide some for the group.

[motormike]

Negative, the headlight only comes on when engine is running.
Stickers and labels are NLA...so it's do-it-yourself.

[catch22!]

Thanks. Got it started today. Runs good, but if it dies, it will not start without starting fluid. The carb has been cleaned and all passages are open. I checked the Ohms of the bystarter, and it matches what is in the manual. But how do you know if it is working? I also have the oil pump hooked up and primed by the instructions in the manual, but again, how do you know it is working? I did use premix oil/gas for the original startup just in case the pump was not working.

As for the fuel label. If someone has a good one and can take a picture of it, I can have some sheets made and have them for anyone that needs one. (I have a friend with a sign shop that specializes in labels.

Thanks for the input.

[motormike]

The bystarter can be connected to 12 volts directly, and observed to determine actual movement of the needle.
Simply remove bystarter, jumper wires to battery terminals, and measure the needle at "cold", then again after two minutes. The needle should extend approximately 1/4 inch when "hot", then retract the same amount once cooled down.
The symptom you describe of dying after starting indicates that your bystarter is probably working properly, but the pilot jet is clogged. Subsequently, when the bystarter needle closes the enrichment circuit, the pilot jet does not supply the required amount to maintain idle. Suggest cleaning and verifying pilot flow again.

[catch22!]

THanks. Electrically, the bystarter checks out, but when hooked up to 12v, I don't measure any movement. I also found there was no hold down on the bystarter, so it appears someone took it out in the past. I fabricated a hold down to fit in the groove and bolt to the holes on the carb, but if anyone has a bystarter hold down they want to part with, I would be interested.

I will pull the carb and clean the jets again.

I note there is a new carb that fits the S on ebay for 20 bucks. Any experience with it? Seems really cheap for a new carb.

This is a very fun machine to ride. Took some laps around our circle drive and noted the shift system is working.

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

No personal experience with Chinese knock-offs of the PA carb, but years of reading the experience of others suggests that a used Honda carburetor is a safer bet than a new Chinese one. Forum members are always upgrading to Polini, OKO or Arreche, so stock carbs pop up all the time.