Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

Thanks RR. Order placed.

So today I took the carb apart and put it in carb cleaner. All passages were brushed and blown out. I noted that the copper tube next to the main jet tube is not patent. I ran a wire in it but it is blocked. Air pressure did not clear it. This tube is hooked to the air/fuel needle valve. From the needle valve to the throttle throat is clear. Should this tube be open? I googled KEIHIN 27F carb, but could not find any information on this. Seems odd they would have a hollow tube going into the bowl that was plugged off.

I'm not sure if this will help or not. I believe the pa series carburetors to be pretty much the same as far as design goes. The pilot jet tube to which you are referring to has an offset between the bowl-side and the venturi-side so the way I have cleaned and made sure of it being open is using spray carb cleaner into the bowl-side tube while viewing thru the venturi to see whether there is flow or not.
Look thru this pictorial to find what I'm talking about. Note: wear goggles when spraying the carb cleaner. http://hondaspree.net/wiki/index.php5?t ... ture_Guide

Yes, it is plugged and it should not be. Use a "high E" guitar string.. either a 9 or a 10 to clean it out, working from the bottom up. The offset in the passage at the top will keep you from cleaning it from the top. Any other wire will be too thick. Same for welding tip cleaners.. none of the common ones come with a fine enough wire. Since it is plugged up, the air bleed screw won't make any difference when you adjust it, and if you are idling, you are idling on the main jet instead of on the idle circuit. With the tube plugged up, you can screw in the idle screw enough to lift the throttle slide enough to idle on the main jet, but you will get a much better idle once you clean out that tube with the guitar string. Starting will also be greatly improved once you get the tube cleaned out.

Also, what bones said.. look at the wiki

Most appreciated. Still learning the in's and out of this site. Was not aware of Wiki, it is a great resource. Ok, it is plugged and that would explain my issues. Bike starts and runs well but as soon as the bystarter warms up, and closes off the bike stops.

I have a set of carb cleaning brushes and wires. .009 may be smaller than what is in this kit. I will get a finer wire.

Most appreciate the information.

i using part of broken Spree brake cable to gone thru those passages on any other carbs i been working on, but this Gyro carb i can't. Took Mr.Bonesv's advice to just blow carb cleaner thru it, here is what i did....blowing air or carb cleaner thru it easier. Thanks bonesv!

Found the problem. The tube going into the air/fuel valve extends slightly into the passage. someone in the past must have tightened the air/fuel needle in and the needle bent the top of the tube. I drilled the tube out. Since the tiny hole is in the carb body, drilling the tube does not change it. It now runs and idles after the byvalve closes.

Well, disaster has struck. I had a slight leak in the bowl, took the carb off, bowl off and the main body rolled off my workbench and bent the bystarter tube. Not fixable. So, I am looking for a carb body for the Gyro. 27 F, I will post on the buy and sell.