I know it's a little early yet, but I think it would be a great idea to post a blurb in the technical section on winterizing a Spree the proper way.
Cleaning, draining, oiling, fogging etc. Any thoughts on this idea?
I can contribute some knowledge on the subject and I'm sure a lot of you other guys (and gals) can too.
Winterizing.........
Moderator: Moderator
Winterizing.........
Scoot safely
Being my only mode of transportation, im going to continue to drive my spree during the winter (rarely get snow up here) should i make any fluid mods or anything else to deal with colder temps? This is going to be my first winter on two wheels so im kinda scared...
86 Honda Spree - Lawn Ornament
83 Suzuki GS450E - Sold
92 Honda CBR600 F2 - Current Daily driver
Spree Repair Guide
83 Suzuki GS450E - Sold
92 Honda CBR600 F2 - Current Daily driver
Spree Repair Guide
Yeah, well there's no need to winterize in places it rarely snows. So the Spree is a year-round vehicle for you? In MI you'd need ice tires to make it around, and that's what they make snowmobiles for...
I have a post; this relates to motorcycles in general. From www.cb1100f.net
-----------------
Well, it's that time of year again! Soon the snow will be falling and the motorcycles will be tucked away for the winter. And each spring your dealers phone will ring off the wall with customers who did not store the ol' bike properly and now wonder why it won't run.
Some preparation now will ensure that you are out riding in the spring instead of waiting in the dealer's line-up.
Location - where are you going to put it?
One solution may be to ask your dealer if he offers a storage program. This is ideal as he will often prep, store and have the bike ready to ride when you are ready again. If you decide to store it yourself, you. will need a place that is dry and out of harms way. When possible, choose a location away from windows. The ultraviolet light can fade paint and plastic parts. Direct sunlight can raise the ambient temperature of the storage area, which will promote condensation when the sun goes down, so cover plain glass with some sort of opaque material. Also, cover your bike with a specially designed bike cover not a sheet or a tarp. Why? Because a sheet absorbs moisture and can hold it against metal surfaces and then rust starts. Also, damp fabric will breed mildew and this may attack the seat material. A tarp prevents moisture getting in but it also prevents it from getting out. Moisture trapped will condense on the bike and then the rust monster is back! A specially designed motorcycle cover is made of a mildew resistant material. The material is slightly porous, so it can breathe. Covers for all Honda bikes are available from Hondaline accessories.
Change The Oil
Even if the oil is not due for a change, byproducts of combustion produce acids in the oil which will harm the inner metal surfaces. Warm the engine to it's normal operating temperature, as warm oil drains much faster and more completely. While you are at it, why not change the filter too? Add fresh Honda oil. Remember to dispose of the drained oil and old filter in a responsible manner. What to do with the old oil? Ask your dealer they can help.
Add Fuel Stabilizer And Drain Carbs
Fill the tank with fresh fuel, but do not overfill. The correct level is when the fuel just touches the bottom of the filler neck. This gives enough room for the fuel to expand without overflowing the tank when the temperature rises. Shut off the fuel petcock and drain the carburetors and the fuel lines. (Check the service manual-or your dealer for instructions for this job).Add Honda winterizing fuel conditioner to prevent the fuel from going stale, and help prevent moisture accumulation. Stale fuel occurs when aromatics (the lighter additives) evaporate leaving a thicker, sour smelling liquid. If left long enough, it will turn into a gum, plugging the jets and passages inside your carbs!
Lube the cylinder(s)
Because gasoline is an excellent solvent, and the oil scraper ring has done it's job, they have removed most of the oil from the cylinder walls the last time the engine was run. If the cylinder wall is left unprotected for a long period of time,' it will rust and cause premature piston and ring wear.
Remove the spark plugs and pour a tablespoon (5cc) of clean engine oil into each cylinder. Be sure to switch off the fuel before you crank the engine or else you may refill the drained carbs! Also, ground the ignition leads to prevent sparks igniting any fuel residue. Turn the engine over several revolutions to spread the oil around and then reinstall the plugs (or put in new ones). Refitting the plugs before cranking the engine could result in a hydraulic lock if too much oil was used in the cylinder.
Battery Storage
The battery must be removed from the motorcycle when it is in storage. Motorcycles often have a small current drain even when the ignition is switched off (dark current), and a discharged battery will sulphate and no longer be able to sustain a charge. A conventional battery (not a maintenance-free type) should be checked for electrolyte level. Add distilled water to any of the cells that are low and then charge the battery. Battery charging should be performed at least every two weeks using a charger that has an output of 10% of the battery ampere-hour rating. e.g. if the battery has an AH rating of 14, then the charge rate of that battery should not exceed 1.4 amps. A higher charge will cause the battery to overhear. Charge the battery away from open flame or sparks as the gas given off a battery can be explosive. Elevate the battery and keep from freezing and exercise the proper caution appropriate to caustic substances.
Service all fluids
If the brake or clutch fluids haven't been changed in the last two years or 30,000 miles, do it now. The fluids used in these systems are "hygroscopic" which means that they absorb moisture. The contaminated fluid will cause corrosion inside the systems, which may give problems when the motorcycle is used next spring. Be sure to use the correct fluids and note the warnings and instructions in the service manual. If you don't have the experience to service these systems, contact your dealer, he will be happy to assist you.
If your motorcycle is liquid cooled, the coolant requires changing every two years or 40,000 miles. Make sure that the engine is cool enough to rest your hand on it before draining the system and please dispose of the coolant responsibly. Honda Coolant/antifreeze is available from your dealer and has been developed to provide the correct protection for your Honda engine. Mixed 50/50 with distilled water will ensure a clean system for the next two years / 40,000 miles.
Final Preparation
Give your bike a good cleaning and dry the bike thoroughly. If your bike is chain driven, apply a quality chain lube. Honda (of course) have available a chain lube suitable for all types of drive chains. Spray a light oil (such as WD40 or equivalent) into the muffler ends and drain holes and give the painted surfaces and uncoated aluminum parts a good coat of wax polish. Check the air pressures of the tires, (the spec is usually on the chain guard or the swing arm label) and put the bike into its previously selected niche. If the bike has a center stand, use it and put a block under the engine to raise the front wheel off the ground. If your bike has no center stand or work stand then the tire pressures should be set at the maximum load pressure to help prevent fiat spotting. Do not use cleaners or vinyl polishes on the tires, as they will dry the rubber compounds and cause cracking. Now you can cover the bike with the cycle cover and look forward to the first warm day of spring.
Back On The Road
Before you head out onto the highway, there are a couple of things to do. First, remove the cover and put it where you can find it again. Talking of finding things, locate the (charged) battery and reinstall it connecting the positive (+) cable before the negative (-) and covering the terminals with the plastic covers. Recheck all fluid levels and turn on the fuel. Set the tire pressures back to riding specs and your ready to fire up. As you don your riding gear, remember that your riding skills will be a little rusty and the road surfaces will have changed a bit since the last ride, so go carefully, and "Ride Safe".
I have a post; this relates to motorcycles in general. From www.cb1100f.net
-----------------
Well, it's that time of year again! Soon the snow will be falling and the motorcycles will be tucked away for the winter. And each spring your dealers phone will ring off the wall with customers who did not store the ol' bike properly and now wonder why it won't run.
Some preparation now will ensure that you are out riding in the spring instead of waiting in the dealer's line-up.
Location - where are you going to put it?
One solution may be to ask your dealer if he offers a storage program. This is ideal as he will often prep, store and have the bike ready to ride when you are ready again. If you decide to store it yourself, you. will need a place that is dry and out of harms way. When possible, choose a location away from windows. The ultraviolet light can fade paint and plastic parts. Direct sunlight can raise the ambient temperature of the storage area, which will promote condensation when the sun goes down, so cover plain glass with some sort of opaque material. Also, cover your bike with a specially designed bike cover not a sheet or a tarp. Why? Because a sheet absorbs moisture and can hold it against metal surfaces and then rust starts. Also, damp fabric will breed mildew and this may attack the seat material. A tarp prevents moisture getting in but it also prevents it from getting out. Moisture trapped will condense on the bike and then the rust monster is back! A specially designed motorcycle cover is made of a mildew resistant material. The material is slightly porous, so it can breathe. Covers for all Honda bikes are available from Hondaline accessories.
Change The Oil
Even if the oil is not due for a change, byproducts of combustion produce acids in the oil which will harm the inner metal surfaces. Warm the engine to it's normal operating temperature, as warm oil drains much faster and more completely. While you are at it, why not change the filter too? Add fresh Honda oil. Remember to dispose of the drained oil and old filter in a responsible manner. What to do with the old oil? Ask your dealer they can help.
Add Fuel Stabilizer And Drain Carbs
Fill the tank with fresh fuel, but do not overfill. The correct level is when the fuel just touches the bottom of the filler neck. This gives enough room for the fuel to expand without overflowing the tank when the temperature rises. Shut off the fuel petcock and drain the carburetors and the fuel lines. (Check the service manual-or your dealer for instructions for this job).Add Honda winterizing fuel conditioner to prevent the fuel from going stale, and help prevent moisture accumulation. Stale fuel occurs when aromatics (the lighter additives) evaporate leaving a thicker, sour smelling liquid. If left long enough, it will turn into a gum, plugging the jets and passages inside your carbs!
Lube the cylinder(s)
Because gasoline is an excellent solvent, and the oil scraper ring has done it's job, they have removed most of the oil from the cylinder walls the last time the engine was run. If the cylinder wall is left unprotected for a long period of time,' it will rust and cause premature piston and ring wear.
Remove the spark plugs and pour a tablespoon (5cc) of clean engine oil into each cylinder. Be sure to switch off the fuel before you crank the engine or else you may refill the drained carbs! Also, ground the ignition leads to prevent sparks igniting any fuel residue. Turn the engine over several revolutions to spread the oil around and then reinstall the plugs (or put in new ones). Refitting the plugs before cranking the engine could result in a hydraulic lock if too much oil was used in the cylinder.
Battery Storage
The battery must be removed from the motorcycle when it is in storage. Motorcycles often have a small current drain even when the ignition is switched off (dark current), and a discharged battery will sulphate and no longer be able to sustain a charge. A conventional battery (not a maintenance-free type) should be checked for electrolyte level. Add distilled water to any of the cells that are low and then charge the battery. Battery charging should be performed at least every two weeks using a charger that has an output of 10% of the battery ampere-hour rating. e.g. if the battery has an AH rating of 14, then the charge rate of that battery should not exceed 1.4 amps. A higher charge will cause the battery to overhear. Charge the battery away from open flame or sparks as the gas given off a battery can be explosive. Elevate the battery and keep from freezing and exercise the proper caution appropriate to caustic substances.
Service all fluids
If the brake or clutch fluids haven't been changed in the last two years or 30,000 miles, do it now. The fluids used in these systems are "hygroscopic" which means that they absorb moisture. The contaminated fluid will cause corrosion inside the systems, which may give problems when the motorcycle is used next spring. Be sure to use the correct fluids and note the warnings and instructions in the service manual. If you don't have the experience to service these systems, contact your dealer, he will be happy to assist you.
If your motorcycle is liquid cooled, the coolant requires changing every two years or 40,000 miles. Make sure that the engine is cool enough to rest your hand on it before draining the system and please dispose of the coolant responsibly. Honda Coolant/antifreeze is available from your dealer and has been developed to provide the correct protection for your Honda engine. Mixed 50/50 with distilled water will ensure a clean system for the next two years / 40,000 miles.
Final Preparation
Give your bike a good cleaning and dry the bike thoroughly. If your bike is chain driven, apply a quality chain lube. Honda (of course) have available a chain lube suitable for all types of drive chains. Spray a light oil (such as WD40 or equivalent) into the muffler ends and drain holes and give the painted surfaces and uncoated aluminum parts a good coat of wax polish. Check the air pressures of the tires, (the spec is usually on the chain guard or the swing arm label) and put the bike into its previously selected niche. If the bike has a center stand, use it and put a block under the engine to raise the front wheel off the ground. If your bike has no center stand or work stand then the tire pressures should be set at the maximum load pressure to help prevent fiat spotting. Do not use cleaners or vinyl polishes on the tires, as they will dry the rubber compounds and cause cracking. Now you can cover the bike with the cycle cover and look forward to the first warm day of spring.
Back On The Road
Before you head out onto the highway, there are a couple of things to do. First, remove the cover and put it where you can find it again. Talking of finding things, locate the (charged) battery and reinstall it connecting the positive (+) cable before the negative (-) and covering the terminals with the plastic covers. Recheck all fluid levels and turn on the fuel. Set the tire pressures back to riding specs and your ready to fire up. As you don your riding gear, remember that your riding skills will be a little rusty and the road surfaces will have changed a bit since the last ride, so go carefully, and "Ride Safe".