best way to clean motor?
Moderator: Moderator
best way to clean motor?
For a really clean engine that is apart, whould a hot tank dip be good or would that ruin the seals and bearings? Or put motor back together and use a spray degreaser? I don't want to remove seals and bearings from case (crank area and trans gear area) unless i would have to. I don't want to buy new rubber seals and bearings.
2001 Honda Elite
1995 Yamaha Jog
1994 Yamaha Axis
I can't believe
that cop put me
in the backseat
when I clearly
called shotgun.
1995 Yamaha Jog
1994 Yamaha Axis
I can't believe
that cop put me
in the backseat
when I clearly
called shotgun.
- chevyguyjay
- CB900F
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in my opinion, id change everything out. then u will know everythings new, and less chance of air leaks. if the crank seals leak, u will have a hard time tring to tune the engine. been down that road. before the aero goes under the ratchet, its suppose to be like 60* tomorrow. might as well go for a ride lol.
~2004 Geely Fashion~
- Wheelman-111
- Moderator
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- Joined: Wed Oct 22, 2008 5:09 pm
- Location: Deepinnaharta, Texas
"Hot Dip"
Greetings:
That'd depend upon the tank contents, wouldn't it? If it's been used to soak countless old radiators, you would be introducing flakes of rust & other spooge to your precious bearings. The acid should do no more harm to your bearings than it does to other metals but it's. a water solution. If anything doesn't dry completely it might corrode. The seals should be fine but they will sequester water behind & make it hard to rinse/dry.
If you MASK the intimate parts you can use S100 (most dealers carry it) to clean the black off the cases. Just be sure to follow directions and do NOT leave any unrinsed S100 on aluminum!
That said, it cleans incredibly well and it's quick.
That'd depend upon the tank contents, wouldn't it? If it's been used to soak countless old radiators, you would be introducing flakes of rust & other spooge to your precious bearings. The acid should do no more harm to your bearings than it does to other metals but it's. a water solution. If anything doesn't dry completely it might corrode. The seals should be fine but they will sequester water behind & make it hard to rinse/dry.
If you MASK the intimate parts you can use S100 (most dealers carry it) to clean the black off the cases. Just be sure to follow directions and do NOT leave any unrinsed S100 on aluminum!
That said, it cleans incredibly well and it's quick.
Wheelman-111
Most of my money is spent on scooterparts. The rest is just wasted.
"ISO": '03 Vespa ET4 Malossi187 74MPH
Flash 9: 2001 Elite SR Contesta 72 ZX Tran, 9:1 Gears, Stock Airbox/Carb/Pipe 58.8 MPH
Punkin: 2010 Vespa/Malossi S78, 61MPH
Most of my money is spent on scooterparts. The rest is just wasted.
"ISO": '03 Vespa ET4 Malossi187 74MPH
Flash 9: 2001 Elite SR Contesta 72 ZX Tran, 9:1 Gears, Stock Airbox/Carb/Pipe 58.8 MPH
Punkin: 2010 Vespa/Malossi S78, 61MPH
I talked to the machine shop that has the tank. He said they use a detergent and nothing caustic. He said he would also oil bearings for me when done. Of course I would fire up the compressor and blow out behind seals and blow out bearings then re-oil. Sounds ok to me, any objections?
2001 Honda Elite
1995 Yamaha Jog
1994 Yamaha Axis
I can't believe
that cop put me
in the backseat
when I clearly
called shotgun.
1995 Yamaha Jog
1994 Yamaha Axis
I can't believe
that cop put me
in the backseat
when I clearly
called shotgun.
The EPA outlaw the chemical hot tanks of old many, many years ago. About all that is legal is industrial detergents in hot water now. But you still should never run seal, gaskets or "o"rings thru the tank. Either remove them before tanking and reinstall after wards or remove before and install new after tanking. The latter is always the recommend and preferred method for good and professional mechanics.
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