Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

Hey what octane gas would we want to run on this bore?

92 and up and premix 32:1 ( 4oz oil to a gallon)

veedubh20 wrote:Wrong spark plug. Taz misleading .
Those are Taiwan bore 50mm piston. Need port bigger on boost port on crank case.
Should have gone malossi or polini bore. Is bolt on.

Try remove 50mm cylinder head n screw bh8hs.
Then you will know different

there is no cutting on this kit, also the molossi and polini kits may use that plug, but i will use the one taz suggests.

if it blows up i will tell you that you told me so.

hey graphite9, i trust your word, i'm confused why i have read great things about taz and his kits yet he reccomends a plug that goes against people here?

i have about 1 week before she starts her heat cycles, today cleaned off all the old gasket from the transmission case.

yes, i dont listen to taz advice.

You really do clean it up nice, glad to see someone else who apricates a good shine too. I cant wai5 to s3e videos of it running. Its like motor * haha

Ya, you n G9 seem to get em lookin cleanist. I went at mine w a wire brush and simple green, nowhere near as clean as this one haha.

Same here I attacked mine with a wire of a rotary drill and couldnt get it clean and I spent hours on it. I have my kicker panal that shiny but I still need to polish it a little and tint it with purple.

lol don't listen. I don't care if you listen to me or not. Once again I have tested all my parts in the Vegas heat. I ran my dio(AF18) first generation with a 50mm Taiwan bore with a BPR6HS for years and installed that plug in every upgrade I ever did and guess what. I never once saw a hole blown in the top of a piston. How hot does it get in Vegas in the summer with the dry heat??? 115 or so. So don't talk s***. This is my experience with these engines. If you want to use a cooler plug you can but I never did and had no problems.

A hotter plug can't burn a hole in the piston but if jetted too lean and running a hotter plug it will cause pre-ignition (pinging). These mini-explosions coupled with the too hot temps of running lean will eventually blow a hole in the piston. If you have higher loads and higher RPM's then a cooler plug will be needed. If your just stop and go driving in town a BPR6Hs will work fine but for longer trips and heat build up a colder plug is the logical choice.


Now the only problem with the BPR6HS is that it is a bit to long with angle of the 50mm BBK so what I use to do is cut a little off where the plug cap would hit when the shock was compressed due to pot holes or speed bumps. I let HKSDIO know that there is a shorter plug that can be used to avoid this but I didn't know the plug number. I cant remember if this was a problem on the actual dio but it is a problem on the a50 model.

Also you do not need to do the boost port on a 50mm Taiwan bore on a sa50. It makes no difference in performance or wear of the cylinder and piston. You guys act like molossi and poling bores never have problems. Well thats a load of BS. I have seen them soft seize and melt down. Its all about the break in, running temp and proper set up such as jetting.
Did you forget he is running the AF18e and not the AF16e. He has an actual Dio not a SA50.

Taz

50mm cylinder/base gasket boost port is bigger than malossi 72cc boost port..

the unport boost af18/af18 crankcase will have lack of airfuel and not cooling down 50mm piston seen them soft seize and melt down . .Port boost port is to cool down to piston 50mm ..
http://www.hondaspree.net/phpBB3/viewto ... =4&t=15362
read this link.

Veeduh you smoking to much of that island bud brahh? Did you even read that thread? Read a little further down on that thread and you will see the truth. We all know that the AF16e has a smaller boost port but plenty people have run Taiwan bores on the AF16e without the boost port mod and never had any problems with over heating. I did the experiments with the boost port cut and not cut and never saw a difference in wear or over heating. It actually boggled my mind. But as I said prior many member on this forum have run the boost port un cut and never had problems. Just because a cylinder overheats does not mean you can automatically assume it was the boost port being un cut. Give me a break. You can have the boost ports match and a cylinder can overheat from other factors such as lean jetting or over heating due to long trips at high RPM's. These are BBK's and no matter what brand you use no big bore kit is immune to over heating if used incorrectly.

I don't know why the boost post issue came up in this thread. I do believe he is running a AF18e.

So Veeduh what advice have I ever gave that was bad for this community? Are my post incorrect on a constant basis? I have learned a lot from these forums and I know Im not perfect but where is my advice bad?

Taz

tazland001 wrote:Veeduh you smoking to much of that island bud brahh? Did you even read that thread? Read a little further down on that thread and you will see the truth. We all know that the AF16e has a smaller boost port but plenty people have run Taiwan bores on the AF16e without the boost port mod and never had any problems with over heating. I did the experiments with the boost port cut and not cut and never saw a difference in wear or over heating. It actually boggled my mind. But as I said prior many member on this forum have run the boost port un cut and never had problems. Just because a cylinder overheats does not mean you can automatically assume it was the boost port being un cut. Give me a break. You can have the boost ports match and a cylinder can overheat from other factors such as lean jetting or over heating due to long trips at high RPM's. These are BBK's and no matter what brand you use no big bore kit is immune to over heating if used incorrectly.

I don't know why the boost post issue came up in this thread. I do believe he is running a AF18e.

So Veeduh what advice have I ever gave that was bad for this community? Are my post incorrect on a constant basis? I have learned a lot from these forums and I know Im not perfect but where is my advice bad?

Taz

+1 for taz, solid advice on plug and boost port.

Hksdio wrote:jumps & vdub,

taz has confirmed it is in fact BPR6HS.

so luckily i had a few people bring to my attention the importance of circlip positon.

so this is how they are sitting at the moment (engine hasnt even been ran and the bore has been off 4 times.)



&



i wont lie, i still don't understand the theory behind circlip position.

im not sure if this is strictly an old dio problem or if spree's suffer from it too but the oem kicker was rusted beyond what id call worth restoring.

so i went on a ebay and picked up the least tacky one i could find.



plenty of clearance between the kicker and clutch bell.



now, the one thing that has been frustrating me the most, the gear.

i imagine in the states & canada every shop has a 20 tonne press, but here in australia everyone seems to have 10 tonne.

so after failing at my regular mechanics with their 10 tonne i rang around, and around, and around.

i found a mechanic that had a 20 tonne press and was told i could come in and use it.



so i went in after work and used it for around and hour, including use of wd40 and safety glasses, when i went to leave i asked the owner how much i owe him, he said "no dont worry about it".

good to know there are still nice people around, needless to say he will be getting a little delivery of alcohol tommorow (alternative australian currency).

hi the C-clip on the second photo looks like it's not sitting all the way in the piston grove? it may slip out?
is it me or is it ok?