Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

Greetings:

Friendly UPS guy left this on my doorstep:

OK it's sad that this is one of my best pics in this thread, but this

was inside. Note how the P.O. neglected to drain ALL the oil from the transmission cavity. Fortunately UPS took care of it for me during shipping.
Pulling off random parts, I came upon the (restricted) variator. Hooray!! It was an "S", not an "SR" model. My theory was that such engines would have suffered less abuse. However what the heck did they do to make the variator look like this?:

Perhaps an unsuccessful attempt to emulate the Harley people and convert it to a Chain Drive! Note Nifty stock belt, now worn to 14.5mm. Also note how little excursion the belt had on the fixed drive pulley. That's one reason why the Ses don't exceed 25MPH.
The cases were grungy, nasty, covered in dirty oil and grease. Just like I like 'em!:


Harbor Freight Puller served twice last night. Once to pull the alternator flywheel:

And again to pull the right crank half (sorry no pic ) revealing the reason the Seller dumped the block:

If I could take a pic that's worth a lick, you could see the finely-ground pieces of metal representing the right crank bearing balls missing on the right side. So much for my theory that S models are less-abused... Strangely, the opposite side bearing was spun smoother than Fred Astaire on Quaaludes. I'm replacing it anyway.
And so the cases are whisked away to Festus, my friendly Honda-san Parts Cleaner. I'll check the crank for true, plumb and level before I decide whether or not to use it. Anybody got a cheap Mini-Stroker for sale. I can make you a deal on a restrictor plate...

Greetings:

Festus works fastest:

you work very fast

Greetings:

Thanks Big, but all credit goes to Festus so far. The rest is mine; tonight I turned my attention to the case intake port in preparation for the $30.00 Treatland OKO reed:

Looks good Guy

lookin like a very pretty start to a sweet build, props so far

Greetings:

Considering the condition of the right bearing, the crankshaft was amazingly close to true. (0.02mm!) I may use it for this build unless a better option comes along.

You only get the nekkid cases once without doing a whole lotta work, so tonight I turned my attention to the belt case. In preparation for some future ZX transmission and/or a giant Ruckus Aftermarket variator (my current one is 97mm and it was a PITA to carve room for it with the engine mounted on the scooter...) 'twas time to make some room.

First I discovered the P.O. had broken a belt cover bolt off in one of the blind holes in the crankcase. Oh, Snap! My luck with screw extractors has resulted in a lot of broken extractors plus several trips to the ER to control Arterial Bleeding. Not with much optimism did I approach this one, but Lo and Behold, it cooperated and unscrewed just like the Screw Extractor's dirty stinkin' liar instructions suggest:


One obstacle to mounting the bigger-diameter ZX rear pulley assembly is the protrusion of the bolt holes inward toward the pulley rim at the back in 3 locations. Just shaving those down to flush with the semi-circular case cavity suffices:


I cut away the same starter housing section that interfered with the 97mm Ruckus variator at the front while I was at it.

Note also the knocked-down corners where the tranny cover meets the rim of the crankcase belt cavity. The mockup with the CT Chrome manifold was just for fun.

Anybody know how to port the alternator housing?

port the flywheel side of the case? did i hear that right?

Greetings:

A Puzzled DK axt:

port the flywheel side of the case? did i hear that right?

Durn tootin! Put a die-grinder in Wheelman's hand and he goes plumb Loco!! I'm a-portin' ever-thang in sight now. Port the boost, case intake, transfers, egg-zhaust, belt cavity, Alternator, transmission case and fender skirts. Once you get a taste of shredded aluminum, it's like potato chips; I can't stop!! Hellppp!!!
(Please note smiley next to the Alternator remark... )

Great morning humor!

Greetings:

Last night I made a valiant, 2-hour-long attempt (not counting Harbor Freight Shopping Time, but that's not work...) to remove the alternator-side bearing that was munched on my '98 block. Final score: Bearing 1, Wheelman zip. A Showdown Shutout.

Sure, it looks simple enough. Install HF Kit Bearing Separator tool, thread on the puller "legs", insert cross piece and screw down the pusher and that thing'll come sliding off like a well-used, uh... well, you know.

Evidently the high-carbon tempered Licorice the Harbor Freight bearing separators never counted on the tenacity of Honda steel mated to bearing inner race. Even the bigger separator in the HF Kit failed to make an impression. Edges of the semi-circle tried to curl up and couldn't begin to get a "bite" behind the outer race. When I finally got a lip under it, the cross-studs only bent as I applied pulling pressure. That thing is tight!

Since my only heat source is another HF tool - the electric heat gun - I didn't resort to more drastic methods. The only good news is that I have not (yet) thrown the crankshaft out of true with Wheelman Mechanical "Techniques". I just need better quality tools. Anyone want an SA16 crankshaft for, say $249.95? Bearing Included. I can make you the same deal on HF Kit

Harbor Freight has failed you. It's a sad, sad day for Wheelman.

OH how did you split your case BTW? I seen you used the steering wheel puller for the flywheel. I attempted to use my steering wheel puller on mine, and it took the threads out on one of the holes. I was so *! Then i decided i'd by that flywheel puller, which works like a dream.

Greetings:

I used that same Steering wheel puller on the cases as well as the flywheel and without incident. It was kind of risky in retrospect, because there were only 2 M6 head bolts - threaded into cast aluminum! - doing the pullage. For the case separation I made sure I had the bolts screwed in as far as possible. I kept everything level and using the forcing screw at half-turns it just popped apart. (It really sounds like you just broke something!

On the flywheel you must make sure not to screw in much past flush, otherwise the windings of the alternator coils will be damaged. However 1 or 2 threads won't hold the tension and are likely to strip, as you now know. I'm seriously considering the purchase of that Tusk assembly tool (once I get all the parts) to clamp it all back together. Otherwise I'll need to buy Honda-san's crew some more pizza.

This wasn't the first time Quality HF Tools have bent/broken/caught something on fire, and it likely won't be the last.

Greetings:

Despite another trip to Harbor Freight, there to procure a propane torch and the biggest/baddest Bearing Buster they had, the score is now:

Bearing 2, Wheelman sucks.

I had to modify the HF bearing separator by shaving down the "lip" that's designed to slip under the edge of the bearing where it rests - is welded, really - to the crank. Evidently when it gave up the ghost - see photo with missing/shredded balls - it got a little warm. Tighten to firm, heat, tighten some more; repeat. Took it out to the concrete curb, there to pound some on the Bearing Separator, heat some more, no dice.

HOWEVER: The Big, Bad Bearing-Buster has saddles that can rest on a hydraulic press. With that and a Real heat source, I'm confident Honda-san can peel off the inner race or kill the crankshaft trying. Left it there this morning. (Wheelman has no press...

Greetings:

Honda-san prevails. All Hail Honda-san!! Wheelman's Sticky Shaft is sticky no more. And despite my esteemed Mechanical "Skills", Crusty the Honda Tech pronounced my crank to be true to well within spec. True, Plumb, and level to .04mm. (Spec is 0.1) I checked myself and concur. Best of all, (speaking of Shafts... ) the connecting rod bearing side and radial clearances are tighter than a Junior Prom date.

Bad news is that I've already ordered a mini-stroker from BeeT. Can you guess which one I plan to install? Honda Schmonda, I want Displacement!!