NQ50 build , nothing to lose , heaps to gain

[Breezy]

This next segment Is the front kick panel
(measured this heaps of times cut 3 times, just when I thought I had it right it would still touch. used vernier callipers to measure and mark out, its pretty symmetrical, the photos are a bit deceiving)





Should note because I didnt place a spacer below the bottom bearing race I lost the some of the shoud, had to chop some of the horn shroud mount off the frame for the steering stem to move, but left half on as its the steering stop, It was the sacrifice I was willing to make, if you do put in a spacer it will make it ride higher and you lose the steering stop.



did the first resin pour on the outside of the fairing



then moved the mould to the back and is now fibre glassed on.
The Prep I do for this is sand with sand paper, then I use this stuff that it smells like acetone, dont know what it is but what it does is eats the surface and opens up pours in the plastic for paint to grab, but you gotta be quick, rub it on, it evaporates, then go and throw on resin and matting, was told the pores close if you are too slow, and re applying the alcohol does not work so great. It worked well for me but im not a Pro, dont take my advise, that stuff was for paint, consult a pro.

Also fixed this with the dregs left over in the can





I pulled off all the old fibre glass repairs and am redoing them, this one I didnt use any glass, you will see why later

Still have more to post

[Mystic]

that is my own concern about the nifty/eve headset is the fragile plastic clips that snap around the headlight. I like them as opposed to the way the square Spree headset screws together but its gonna suck when they break off so I always try to be extremely careful

[Breezy]

Caution, Imagination required.

Everything is just sitting on there at the moment, it will sit nice once finished



Dont worry, the brake pipe will be run under the fairings, its just like that so it was off the ground.



The key operated seat pop on the back I removed and filled as it was naft on the fairing mount, gonna try add a cable drawn system



Because all the mounting points were broken on the rear fairings I decided that I would de-seam the fairings and make it into a single piece unit, as for getting them on and off, I need to reach behind the fairings to undo the bolts holding down the gas tank, then I can take them off, but im thinking I might drill 2 holes that I can fit a long reach socket through so I can get to the 2 front gas tank bolts easier, then I will just fill them with a rubber grommets

And yes that is a socket in the front mud guard, im widening it by about 30mm, the socket will be pulled out once I have fibre glassed the underneath and she is ridged.

I feel that in between the wheel and the horn shroud its too bare, I think I might get some longer bolts and place an alloy plate across the front of the shock tree, then put a HONDA sticker across it, I think that will fix it

Anyways here is a Fairing montage













I say good day to you old fibre glass repairs!!!

















Thats called a montaaage, even Rocky had a montaaage, montaage

[Breezy]

Feeding the front mud guard on a RED BULL diet, giving it some wings.



The gaurd has been widened by 30 odd mm, but putting the wings on it to hide the mount that will mount it to the Shock,
at the moment its a mold over the top of the guard, then I will pull of, cut it to size, then resin back on.

Contemplating what to do for an air filter, opinions would be good.
I would like to be able to ride this in bad weather, typical Auckland weather, if you dont like it, just wait 10 minutes, if you do like it, just wait 10 minutes

here is what I did on that rebuilt black honda pal I showed in the beginning, it never had an air filter when I got it



then I made this one, its was not finished in the picture



And I made this cove to go over the top for bad weather



thats me for today

[Breezy]

Well, a full 2 days of work and I have not much to show for it, this next bit was a nightmare, was so tight for clearance's

time to fix the headlight fairings and make them work with the brake master cylinder

First thing I did was make new mounting points on the top , these are just M6 nuts welded on some panel steel, then I drill an extra hole in the in the panel steel for the resin to fuse though it to the other side once fibre glassed on



Then I made new mounts on to the handle bars
I was lucky that the old plastic mounts on the underneath were still there, 1 was split the other snapped in half, I was able to use them just enough to have the fairing sit straight as I tack welded the new ones up



On hydraulic brake side I had to remove the old mount completely as it was in the way of the master cylinder



then I modified the mount again, I welded a new plate across the top and cut off the old one that ran below it so the master cylinder would fit like so



I didnt like how this looked as it made the lever point down at quite an angle



So then I made a new mount on the top fairing



then made a new mount on the handle bar



then cut the other off



then removed the old mount on the faring, this almost went horribly wrong, I was going to grind it off, My plan was to grind for 2 seconds then throw in bucket of water, grind 2 second then throw in bucket of water, and repeat till gone.
Thats not how it worked out though, grinded 1.5 seconds, heat transfer cooked the resin almost set it on fire, very slightly blemished the top of the fairing, you cant really notice it and bog will hide it, after the resin got naft I was able to very carefully pry it out with pliers, the old mount is being held up in the picture by my pinky finger



Ended up tweaking the mount again as it was making the brake lever point up and would make the brake pipe come through the top of the fairing



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

then for the next part, cutting the fairing for the brake reservoir

Warning!!!, the following presentation has fairing mutilation and viewer discretion is advised.

What started as a hole for just the reservoir to come through ended up being this



I plan on getting some more fibre glass and making the fairing cover the clamp part, but the rest will be left cut like that

Now to make the bottom fairing connect,
I just welded some 3mm thick steel plate onto the other mount with a M6 thread tapped into it, and welded fiddly little bars on to help keep the fairing in place





I had to cut a little bit extra out of the bottom fairing for the brake hose

And this is how it is now





I now need to get about 3" off the end of the brake line taken off.

but thats me done for now, it took a good hour for me to post this

[dun rite]

nice job. i"m sure it will look awesome when done.

[Breezy]

Thanks Dun Rite, there is a lot more work left to do, I have some Ideas, just a thing of if my skills can keep up

[Breezy]

Here is a little something I have been working on over the week

Purchased this KITACO race gage, its made for a Dio ZX.

The mechanical unit behind is the same as the nifty fifty one, just calibrated for up to 120kph for the DIO, of which im running dio forks and speedo drive unit



Only really did this as it was on sale, normally $164.90 NZD - now $119.90 NZD.
Got the last one I think too



just a comparison between the two



then I cut it up like so.... it fitted and bolted straight in, I cut it like this as the plate was not tall enough to reach the top of the dash.



So then I got 2 pieces of steel plate and covered the surface with clear packaging tape (its works awesome as a mould release), then placed 2 ply's of carbon fibre and resin between the 2 pieces of steel and left them for a day

then I cut the carbon fibre to suit and resin it to the gauge



It currently looks like this, but I might add the oil light, the indicator light and gas gauge

or I might add them elsewhere

Its passable but not perfect, but Im happy

And it saved me from working out the speedo drive ratios to see if the nifty 50 gauge would work with the Dio Speedo drive.
And the nifty 50 gauge would end up redundant anyways due to only reading to 60kph

[jcrabb13]

looks good, didn't even know this scoot existed! i'm still a noob outside of the GET scoots.

in for more updates!

[swimmingfree]

been reading along your the kind of guy that needs to have a one of a kind toy.. and im glad your sharing it with us ...
thank for the photos and the step by step keep up the good work ..
swimmingfree

[Breezy]

looks good, didn't even know this scoot existed! i'm still a noob outside of the GET scoots.

in for more updates!

Thanks, yea scoots are kinda new to me too, have done heaps of other full on bike and car projects over the years, wouldnt have started scoots if my brother hadnt given me my first scoot.

been reading along your the kind of guy that needs to have a one of a kind toy.. and im glad your sharing it with us ...
thank for the photos and the step by step keep up the good work ..
swimmingfree

Thanks Swimmingfree, but its more of a thing of I cant leave well enough alone , I once got given a RC car for christmas, within 20 minits I had pulled it apart and glued in a leggo technics hydraulic unit for the rear suspension and put knead-it in the diff to lock it up, mean little donut/drift machine

Sorry, no progress to show today, I need more materials but I have not been able to make time this week to get'em, but fingers crossed I can finish work early tomorrow and get bits and peices, long weekend this week....

[Breezy]

Fail, one to go down in my build history

I got some bog and decided i needed to finish off my front mud guard



Got her all nicely shaped up, but then though I would give a carbon fibre copy a go, good idea at the time as the bog would just brake off any how.

I used some PVA mould release straight onto the bog, It didnt work though.

I didnt take many photos of this as time was against me in the rush to get the resin on



so on with 2 plys of Carbon and some resin, then applied a peel ply on top

then pulled the peel ply off to find alot of imperfections such as folds that I thought I had pulled out
So then I cut off the folds and added a third layer of carbon with no peel ply



Once it was dry it was time to cut of the excess carbon fibre and remove the skin from the mould, it took me a few hours.

See the carnage



I cant beleive how hard it was stuck on, I thought my carbon fiber would be ruined, but it has alot of flex and is very strong, and im blown away by how light it ended up being, this stuff is magic, so easy to work with,Twill Weave carbon forms into shapes 10 time easier then woven and that horrid loose strand fibre glass.

Should note I use Epoxy resin with a clear fluid hardener, I stay well away from Polyester resin, It has no flex and is very brittle, though polyester is cheaper and maybe the no flex thing could be beneficial in some areas.....

Anyway



as you can see this is the underneath, there is still some crud left inside



And here is the top, there is a lot of imperfections but I think it is salvageable. I might go see a surfboard repairer, see if they might be interested in sprucing it up.

If not my plan is to add one more layer of carbon, I think I have the hang of it now, and then just a layer of pure resin, then sand with about 600 grit wet and dry sand paper, then spray on a clear cote.

Wish me luck......

[Breezy]

I finished the Instrument cluster









When I was playing around with the speedo, I noticed what I thought was the indicator light was actually a speed warning light so I didn't rig it up, couldn't be bothered turning it into an indicator neither

[Breezy]

Great success!!, I took her for a ride for the first time today (with no fairings), I was jumping up and down on it when riding like an erratic monkey, the rear wheel didnt touch the mud guard and the exhaust didnt hit the frame as I thought it would, but I did have to remove the front heat shield on the header part as it would and did hit frame before hand.

This week I didnt take any photos as it seemed pointless, all I did was some soldering of wires, bleed oil pump, replaced carb jets, and rebuilt front brakes.

I will have some more pictures tomorrow though.

Then it wasnt revving out, replacing the CDI fixed that

the jets I placed in her were a 40 and 85, but I think its too rich.

I must say that the wiring threw a curve ball at me, the old engine didnt have an electric choke/bystarter, but figured that out.

I was shocked to find that the loom colour code matched the engine loom colour code, I spent about an hour playing with a test light and multi meter just to be sure what I was playing with.

a little bit of a side track, probably the wrong place to post this but has anyone used one of these engine temp sensors?
are they any good?



I notice that the lead going to the spark plug is only 2 foot long, I wonder if I could cut and lengthen it, or is it that specific lenght that gives it an accurate reading, Im awaiting a response from Trail Tech themselves in regards to this.

thats me for today, good day....

[Breezy]

so, this was the state of the scoot when I went for the test ride







This is a 1/8th BSPT 90 degree hose tail connection, a straight connection will not work as it will hit the frame.
It tapped straight into the old hole without needing to be drilled.



And a temporary fuel tap and bracket added



A cheap and nasty CDI, will find a standard/better one later

I ran all the loom down the left side as the exhuast would melt it on the right, its all held by cable ties at the moment, on the final re assembly I will tidy it all up.