Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

You take some d*** fine pics Hks

Im very much liking that rear shock and am in the market for one. Where did you get it from?

Thanks buddy.

I got it from ebay but i wont reccomend it untill i know for sure it clears the tyre.

tailights are finished now





the rear one is the dummy tailight which sat under this unit:



the wipe new product did a great job at restoring the faded plastics.



cleaned up the flywheel and mounted it. note, i only saw this just before i mounted it but there is a groove in the flywheel to accommodate the keyway.
im sure everyone else knows this but if you don't, just be extra careful.



mounted the rear wheel to check shock clearance, well it's not great.



only 2 card thickness



i am hoping a 40mm mount spacer should sort it out, how much space are you other guys working with?

so here is where i require a bit of help, i have labeled the parts of the carby and would appreciate someone to confirm.

Couple things from experience here: if that's an eBay ct manifold, take it apart and sand the mated surfaces. Make new gaskets if you rip the old ones, and it's a good idea to swap the reeds. I haven't had any trouble w them, but I've heard horror stories about them breaking and feeding motors screws and pieces of reed valve/cage. I ordered a reed cage from a kx65 and I'm planning on using boyesen reeds on it.

I think 1 is idle screw and 2 is pilot jet air/fuel mix. Not sure about 4, but I think 3 is a vent tube and 5 is the pull choke knob.

If that's an oko carb, make sure the box has a Taiwanese flag on it, if it has a sticker over it then it could be a knock-off

He got the kit from tazland its legit parts, but I do agree sand the manifold surfice on an very flat surfice and clean it good and use a coat of honda bond to mate it onto the block and at the reed cage. Make sure locktight is on the reed screws and you should be good to go.

thanks benji! yeah it is a ct, i will sand the surfaces appreciate the tip.

jumps, thanks buddy i will throw some red loctite on the reed screws.

for some reason i have 2 gaskets, i assume on is for the manifold to block but the cage top and bottom already have gaskets.

does anyone know what the top one is for?



coming up soon in the most photographed underpowered build thread, gears!



would still appreciate clarification regarding the carb, thanks guys.

That top gasket is odd looking almost like a spree manifold gasket, send taz a message and ask him or maybe he might see this and say. Those gears will make a difrence, but depending on what you want speed or wheelies hahaha.

jumps i think you are right, i spoke to taz and he said they are not for my engine.

so, im in the process of restoring the dirty/faded shrouds and discovered an issue.

im under the impression that the shrouds need to be in place for cooling, but since i have installed the big bore kit the shroud touches and is pushed out somewhat. what is the common solution for this problem?

Oh wow, hmmm I haven't thought of looking into shroud issues yet, I figured they would just pop on and be happy. Picky things, My thoughts are to drill a hole set closer to the housing and farther in on the tab ( on the plastic only, dont drill on the case ). This is just a thought, I have no clue how it will work. maybe the inside has a bunch of junk in it and is causing it to be pushed back. I don't know, im stumped. Lets see what people say.

thanks jumps, not exactly sure what i will do hopefully i can get some more advice.

so decided today was the day to remove the gears (a day that i have been dreading).

i made sure to label the bolts i removed so they can go back in the correct position.

i expected some oil to come out but i may have underestimated the amount...



the trans cover



the old gasket will be super fun to remove.





i will be dropping the shaft and gears at my mechanics tommorow for pressing.

That old oil was quite nasty, check the bearings for play and clean it out really well with degreaser and then hit it with break clean and it should be ready to put back together and seal it up. Also check that seal, on the picture it looks a little torn up. Those gears look healthy so i would say everything looks tip top shape. also make sure when you put the new gear in the dome is same as the stock gear as the main one is their/ https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1546/246 ... 3986_c.jpg /. It wont be long until its running, have you done any heat cycles yet? All you need is a temp gauge, A lot of people do them without the shrouds because it helps the process go by faster. I am not sure how high you wanna cycle that bore through though yet. You will need the shrouds though, I wish we could run without them but Honda makes these motors with such precision they need every bit almost. Cheers!

I have a question on the 50mm tazland bore, what plug number will it take on a af16 vs af18

Is it difrence?


Also what are the temp ranges on the bore? Highest, good idle area to shoot for?

jumps!

those are really good questions that i will talk to taz about. don't know why but i assumed it would run the oem plug.

but now that i think about it, it may need a cooler or hotter plug.

I try to think outside the bore < haha please dont kill me > and think of things that possibly could make a difrence. Never know with these small motors, there so finicky. Im mainly so intrested because I plan on doing this exact build. Taz land bore and carb kit with 9:1 gears, pg short, and zx trans.

hey jumps,

so i took the tranny cover off again and double checked the seal, it seems the oil in the seal made it seem like it was broken, but it seems perfect for its age.

so the oil plug arrived!



installed, please forgive the state of this area, when i cleaned the engine this area wasn't accessible due to the oil pump.



i then reinstalled the brace over the plug area.

now, i have been having issues with the much larger bore and head fouling on the fan shroud and decided to do something about it.






i thought long and hard about this solution and as it seems people ditch the riveted section and i would need to cut a decent amount off to clear the CT manifold, this solution only allows the air to leave another few cm's earlier. i need to clean it up with a dremel but hopefully this will work.

another shout out to this forum for being so helpful.