Fab Flash 7: Fabrizi 50mm Cylinder Kit (74.6MPH)

[Red Eft Performance]

That squish is good.

[LMH]

.7-.9, depending on max rpm you want smaller for lower rpm, larger for high, so when the rod stretches at those higher rpms. I shoot for .8 on my mhr and corsas. You really don't want to keep removing the head to measure unless you have a new head gasket or o ring. New builds its ok to do it 1-2 times if not ran yet. This is only my opinion as I've ham fisted a head gasket before and warped it out of commission. Lack of compression gave it away.
Looks like your kits coming together and hopefully the jetting isn't to bad. I'm really surprised the pg short would work on a 82cc kit when it works so well on the stock bore. Glad Baka had some insight on them.
I ran a 58 pilot 150 main on a 50mm and 28mm oko with a 28mm v8. Top end always felt a little rich but if not I would hit 375+ real quick on 10 sec or longer wot runs with anything less.

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

That's Egg-Zackly the kind of information I need, LMH. Thanks, Dawg!
Anyone else with 28mm OKO experience? Post 'em up!

[bakaracer]

Looks good!. Yeah the pg pipes are good from 72-90cc with the rear insert intact. They were really designed to run on small stroker setups as pg doesnt have small cc cylinders

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

Thank you, Baka-san. I'm just wondering why the thing idled so perfectly with the vac port open and so bad with it plugged. I may drop a Pilot size or 2 and see if I can adjust the air up.

[ped]

hi wheelman. should there be any concerns on the piston being to big. and bending the stock crank rod?
I did have a concern with the piston making contact with the case. but you fix that.
great info on the squish test.

[paulpauly7]

updates?

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

My crank shaft is by Malossi. Anything can break, but detonation held at bay by AvGas 100 octane for now. Posts of broken cranks from all brands, including tough Stock Honda units have appeared. The best prevention is avoiding Detonation.

[ped]

Greetings:

My crank shaft is by Malossi. Anything can break, but detonation held at bay by AvGas 100 octane for now. Posts of broken cranks from all brands, including tough Stock Honda units have appeared. The best prevention is avoiding Detonation.

looks like I will have to get a malossi crank. I don't trust my ruima crank. with the corsa head. your right anything can break. you can just add a head gasket with the o-ring. I will have to take motor apart. : I seem to find out after I order the parts and put them together.
I think you have a very good setup. always start with the best crank, and go from there.

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

Yesterday off, I did 3-4 heat cycles from 200 to 250 on the stand at 3K-5K RPM. Thanks to Bakaracer for the trick of leaving the shrouds off for heat cycles, it speeds things up considerably. After the cool-down, I re-torqued the head bolts before reinstalling the shrouds. I put the seat bucket and other trim back on and went for a ride. Trans setup including 30-ish grams of roller weight and a +2K Malossi from Flash 6 was was unchanged for break-in, as was the 7.58:1 final drive. But you'd never know it from the acceleration at very small throttle openings. I think Eftie was right about this having good power. I finally got a Propeller shop to dare pressing my 8.44 gear onto my new axle, but now I'm not so sure I want to change, acceleration really won't be a problem and maybe those are too short for best top speed.

I decided to mount the Scorpion pipe, although it was hard to decide between it and the PG short. The Scorp isn't as loud as I remembered.

Tuning, I found I needed over 2-1/2 turns out using the 58 Pilot, so I went to 55 and finally 52 in the 28mm OKO with OKO airbox. I still need almost 2 turns out, but do I dare go any smaller? This is 81.25cc after all. I didn't really go very fast on the test rides, not over 30 anyway, but it goes all hoarse and power weakens me as the revs 7500 or so. I have to figure out if that's a rich or a lean sound... It's not helping that my TTO temp gauge has taken to going blank every so often for no apparent reason.

Today doesn't look so good for testing 'n' tuning.

[Red Eft Performance]

I would leave the pilot fat for now. You can go back to that later.
You will probably find that you will need to lighten your rollers a little bit.

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

Took most of my day to reverse the plumbing that tied my oil tank into my fuel supply. It seems the rubber plug for the oil level sensor just presses in. Prolonged exposure to fuel eventually softens it enough for a leak to start and worsen. Oil tank now eliminated altogether, wish the space it occupied contained extra fuel....

Also did a little testing on the Kege tach. It still won't register unless I tie both black and black/yellow wires together to the low side of the coil. It's over damped. Indicating needle moves slow like a thermometer, although it does seem to accurately record actual RPM. I may hook it up anyway, if I can make some time to remove the front cover and enlarge the hole.

[Red Eft Performance]

Greetings:

Took most of my day to reverse the plumbing that tied my oil tank into my fuel supply. It seems the rubber plug for the oil level sensor just presses in. Prolonged exposure to fuel eventually softens it enough for a leak to start and worsen. Oil tank now eliminated altogether, wish the space it occupied contained extra fuel....

Also did a little testing on the Kege tach. It still won't register unless I tie both black and black/yellow wires together to the low side of the coil. It's over damped. Indicating needle moves slow like a thermometer, although it does seem to accurately record actual RPM. I may hook it up anyway, if I can make some time to remove the front cover and enlarge the hole.

I had the same thing happen on one of my bikes with the oil level sensor.
I ended up removing the sensor and plugging it with a boat drain plug.

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

Yeah, and I blamed failing carbs and many other false problems for the occasional drippage I've seen for the past couple of years. Live and learn. The boat plug is a Capital idea! However the other moist area of the oil tank is the rubber sleeve/filter affair that holds oil but just isn't tight enough for fuel. Unless you've solved that issue as well, I'll just have to accept my 1.3-gallon fuel supply.

[ped]

Greetings:

Yeah, and I blamed failing carbs and many other false problems for the occasional drippage I've seen for the past couple of years. Live and learn. The boat plug is a Capital idea! However the other moist area of the oil tank is the rubber sleeve/filter affair that holds oil but just isn't tight enough for fuel. Unless you've solved that issue as well, I'll just have to accept my 1.3-gallon fuel supply.

hi WM. 1.3gal sounds better than the 2.5L = 0.66gl. on the spreedio. with 24mm carb. I too am trying to get a bigger gas tank.
you can try fuel line and that plug REP was saying?