Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

Greetings:

Solid Forumista vendor supplied this kit at a fair price. Fabrizi enjoys a good reputation. Looking forward to installing on the 2001 block and seeing how she runs.The split exhaust port is a yard wide, nicely chamfered and smooth.My current pipe choices are PG Short and Scorpion for 72cc.

jelly

Scorp for the win!!

Very nice. let us know how it performs.

Greetings:

The teardown of the MHR revealed an AMAZING condition for bore and piston. I've never seen a piston and bore look this good - even the Corsa had fine lines, but the Malossi? - Nothin'.The cylinder likewise was unscathed:The differences between the cylinders were considerable.Note only 6 cooling fins on the Fabrizi compared to 7 on the Malossi. The thing that worries me a little is the wall thickness of the Fabrizi (F7) cylinder; not much "meat" there: So it was time to grease some gaskets and slather some Motul and bolt 'er up: UH-OH!That's as low as the piston could go. It stops at least 20 degrees from BDC. I didn't notice it with the cylinder off, because the piston was then free to rock a little as it went through the bottom of the stroke, but it's not even close bolted up. It makes contact with the case: I'm not sure if the reason is that the Fab's designed for Kymco or another similar-but-not-identical case, or if the Malossi crank rod is that much shorter than stock. Whatever the reason, I think I have a solution: I plan to shave the "corners" of the piston as marked here on Wheelman's Workbench: If anyone has a better idea that DOESN'T involve splitting the case and working that instead, please let me know. OK you can tell me if that's the ONLY effective solution too, but be gentle. I'm taking a break for a few hours. Hopefully someone who's assembled one of these can advise. Red Eft? More on this as it develops.

The malossi crank rod is the same as stock.
The bore is made for a 44.6 stroker crank if I remember right.
How does it sit at tdc?
If you're shaving your piston make sure to do equal amount on each side.

Thats an odd place hit. I was told from Fabrizi that this was for stock stroke.

I dont think this cylinder is for a larger stroke crank. If the stroke was any longer the crank would have to have a longer conrod or the piston would hit even more. If it had a longer conrod the it seems the piston would never clear the exhaust port.

regardless of the stroke of the crank the bottom of the piston hits before it clears the exhaust port.

I will see what additional info I can find out.

Like Graphite and lovemyhonda said already I dont see a problem cutting the piston.
When you are done cutting the piston be sure to put a chamfer on the new cut to prevent the piston from scraping oil off the cylinder wall.

Longer con rod = more distance between piston pin and bdc which makes the piston not hit the case. Then you add base gaskets to the jug to level out exhaust timing as long as tdc is within spec to the head.

Greetings:

Apparently this is the first Fabrizi build report here. TDC LOOKED Normal enough that I didn't measure. I'll take another pic when I go out there.

Thanks for the input so far, but if anyone has assembled a Fab, please let me know. Clearly this isn't bolt-on for my block and Malossi crank at least.

i read on another forum that the kit is made for a 44ish mm stroke crank .when installed on a stock stroke a 3 -4 mm base gasket is needed to correct port timing .like i said i juat read this else where no personal experience with this kit .you could buy a stroker crank

Greetings:

After shaving equally on both sides of the piston, she spins around like Buttah. Thanks for all the input Dawgs. I just wondered if Signore Fabrizi simply plucked the wrong piston from the bin, but it measures so perfect with the bore all is forgiven. Trusty Dremel and carbide cutter made this literally a 10-minute shave operation. Smoothed out with stone and diamond files and she look gooood!Yes, carefully chamfered the cutouts... Thanks again for this important reminder.

This Fab cylinder definitely isn't for mini-stroker. At bottom dead center, the transfer ports are just barely fully-exposed:Meanwhile, the piston crown drops just visible through the giant exhaust port.You can see where it resides with respect to the exhaust port in the previous pic too. At Top Dead Center, you can see this isn't meant for a stroker; stock gasket at the base is regular thickness.Compression test and Ignition must wait for the morrow. I forgot what jets are in the OKO 28, 55 and 155 or so (I think...) How much bigger to install? The plug on the pristine Malossi was dark chocolate...

Very interesting . very good photos and info wheelman. thanks for posting.
when I order my fabrizi kit I know I will have to cut and taper the piston skirts.

Greetings:

I am interested in seeing what it does with a stock crank or a different block. Someone said the Malossi rod is the same as stock. Seeing how much interference the piston had in my block, I am not so sure. It seems like a boneheaded oversight for such a well-engineered kit otherwise.

Malossi crank is indeed stock stroke, stock big end diameter, and stock con rod length. Only change is a stuffer to decrease the amount of volume in the case to speed up air flow and scavenge. Other wise it would be a stroker. Any modification to either would change the port timing on any cylinder.
It's really hard to tell how tdc that piston is in the pic but once you check squish you will know for sure. If you get it together and you have issues with high rpm you may want to bevel the piston crown.
You know maddog has installed a fabrizi or so he claims.

+1 on boneheaded oversight. please keep us posted on any thoughts. how wide was that piston?