Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

Ok I got the problem solved. I installed the red clutch springs and I was able to launch better but I still had flutter from 1/4 to 1/2 so I dropped my needle again. It's now at the last ring. Performs excellent! I took it out on a wot run and got to 57mph. I have a 105mj installed and my temp was only 349f.

Should I drop the main jet one more time?
Will this affect my needle position?
Should I be concerned about being on the last clip position?

My Pj is a 34 and I have the mixture screw turned out about 3/4 turn out. Best running position, though 1 turn out doesn't really affect the idle as I tried both.

I'd keep things the way they are for a bit. Try some long pulls up hills. If it runs good then run it for a bit. Good to hear.

Rip_City_Spree wrote:Try some long pulls up hills. If it runs good then run it for a bit.

The part about "long pulls up hills" made me burst out laughing! The only hills around here are made by gophers! Sadly, the only real hills are only about 1/3mile long.
Anyways, good advice and I'll keep ripping around to see how things go.

I really have to buy a new rear shock as this thing is leaking fluid and bounces around terribly!

Looking fwd to hear how your works out Rip City!

You really want your air fuel screw to be 1 1/4- 1 3/4 turns. Under 1 turn out seems wrong to me. Are you really set at 3/4?
Needle clip position at the very top or bottom doesn't hurt you.
And changing your main jet will cause you to have to change the clip position most likely. The clip kind of acts as an "in between jet" or "fine tuner" as you use it to richin or lean out your mixture without actually changing jets.

Thanks I'm in the same boat with the shock. Hit a bump so hard I actually compressed my plug wire and bent the end of my plug. And be thankfull about the hills. I deal with more hills than flats. Glad yours is ripping. Mine will get there. I'm persistent

curtis966 wrote:You really want your air fuel screw to be 1 1/4- 1 3/4 turns. Under 1 turn out seems wrong to me. Are you really set at 3/4?
Needle clip position at the very top or bottom doesn't hurt you.
And changing your main jet will cause you to have to change the clip position most likely. The clip kind of acts as an "in between jet" or "fine tuner" as you use it to richin or lean out your mixture without actually changing jets.

Yup at 3/4 turns out. I took my screwdriver with me when I was out and tuned it for idle /air mixture.
Should I be concerned?

Not sure to tell you the truth. I would think you have an air leak to be running it turned in so far. Have you tested for air leaks? Maybe someone else will be able to chime in on this as Ive never run into that problem.

Have you done any plug chops?

Sounds like you need to go up on the pilot jet 1 if you can have a great idle at 3/ 4 turn out. How does it idle coming off of the throttle coming to a stop?

so when you screw in your idle screw on your carb does the idle get higher or drop? if its leaning out by screwing it in and your needle is leaned out as far as you can it would seem to me that your jets are rich and your having to compensate for that by leaning your needle. I just dont know if your idle screw leans going in or screwing out. I just reread your thread and didnt see which way it was. 1man had a good question about how it idles back down to a stop. is there any surging at idle? just my thoughts

1man8scoots wrote:Sounds like you need to go up on the pilot jet 1 if you can have a great idle at 3/ 4 turn out. How does it idle coming off of the throttle coming to a stop?

It idles down fine; not suddenly nor hanging. Once the clutch speed disengages, it drops nicely down.

Rip_City_Spree wrote:so when you screw in your idle screw on your carb does the idle get higher or drop? if its leaning out by screwing it in and your needle is leaned out as far as you can it would seem to me that your jets are rich and your having to compensate for that by leaning your needle. I just dont know if your idle screw leans going in or screwing out. I just reread your thread and didnt see which way it was. 1man had a good question about how it idles back down to a stop. is there any surging at idle? just my thoughts

With the 34Pj, when I screw it in, it speeds up, but more than 3/4 in, it stalls.
With the 36Pj,I adjusted the airscrew which I noted that I could turn it out more than 3 turns and it didn't really increase too much in rpm, maybe 200rpm, but closing it, it would cough and sputter.

I'll swap out the 34Pj with a 36Pj and report back on my findings.
Thanks!

On the pwk style carbs screwing in the mix screw richens your pilot circuit.

1man8scoots wrote:On the pwk style carbs screwing in the mix screw richens your pilot circuit.

I have a Polini cp23. Is it the same?

So I took it out tonight and got it warmed up, then I adjusted my air screw. Finally found the sweet spot; about 1 1/2 turns out. So maybe the other night I wasn't waiting long enough between adjustments.

For now it's working fine and maybe in week it may need adjusting.
Question about my variator; I marked it with a felt pen from inner to outer. I then rode it wot and the last 1/2" was unscathed. Is this a problem?

Greetings:

Ah, the three-pointed Mercedes-Benz method of variator markings. I didn't take the time to read all the way down your thread, but in general the belt won't make it to the rim of the drive pulley until you go Wide Open for a little bit. If you ran full-throttle and the belt didn't erase your marks to the edge, your gears are too tall for the power produced. The belt is gripped most firmly at full displacement - all the way to the rim of the drive face and all the way to center on the stern pulley. Running somewhere in the middle introduces greater slippage - and loss of potential speed. You can put more of your specs in the signature to give a better idea how it could be improved. I like 9:1s in the Contesta myself.

My specs:
Polini Contessa
Polini CP23 carb 105Mj, 34Pj, needle at top notch
Polini air filter
Naraku intake manifold
Polini variator with 33grams of rollers
stock clutch with red Malossi springs(5-7K rpm engagement)
PG Long exhaust
BR8HS spark plug
9.8:1 gears

Thats it for now...
Does this help Wheelman-111?