Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

I see you notched the plastic to accommodate the pipe a bit. You may have to notch it a bunch more once you sit on it and the spring compresses. I had the same problem with mine until I installed a spring extension and raised it up a bunch....unless youre going hardtail.

Oh, and nice creepy mask hangin on the wall too...does it ward off evil spirits or something?...ha!

I actualy made that notch for the stock exhaust I realy don't need the notch to be there any more. and It is hardtailed mainly because I wanted it super low.
as far as the mask go I was given that by a random dude in Jamaica cuz he said "here bradda you have da same dreadlocks mon, my gift to you" hahahah

So I know there's no winning combo for cvt tuning. But I was lookin at getting some different clutch engagement springs and I see SSS carries some for the stock af16 clutch but the lowest is 4k which seems high. But then again what does a af16 stock clutch engage at as it is? Befor it's said I know I need a tach but I plan on ordering that along with springs and a maybe a new contra together

got a chance to get out and tune my trans a little finally. I was trying to get it to launch better. after trying 4.5 gram weights and then a mix of 4.5 and 5 I ended up throwing the 5s back in. a suggestion from joe on facebook was to tune the carb. found that my pilot jet is far to big. but it seems like my homemade expansion chamber is helping quite a bit and with more tuning it should be even better. not a huge update

How much you weigh?

195-200 lbs

little update and question. so I switch the pilot jet to a 35 from a 45 and the accel is worlds better just need to figure out what im listening for for how to adjust the needle position. and my question is pertaining to my taillight/brake light it doesn't work so I pulled the bulb out and checked it with my test light and it lights up, I replaced the bulb itself still nothing checked the ground and its got a good ground. so im kinda of at a loss.
also any pointers on what to listen for for the needle position
and after putting the 35 pilot jet and im running a 89 main. now the drain hose leaks a good bit while the engine is running it trickles to a stop once I shut it off so that tells me the petcock is good. any ideas there

Greetings:

The leak sounds like a sticky or mis-assembled float valve. It's real easy to get it wrong...
If it's correctly assembled, dismantle again and clean the carb and the float needle seat. Consider buying a new needle, even if it looks fine. The rubber undergoes some sort of transformation after time, and won't seat and seal correctly.

wheelman thanks for the input I had been reading a lot about floats being out of wack and needles being faulty but since this was a brand new carb about 2 months ago I didn't think that was it . and unfortunately I was right apparently when I tightened down the drain screw last time I went a little to tight and cracked a teeny tiny crack in side the bowl where the drain needle is. yay me
any input on what to listen for a feel for adjusting my needle?

Greetings:

Stock Honda carb, Chinese stock knock-off, or aftermarket? Without feeling the power curve or being able to hear, see and smell, it's gonna be hard for anyone to help you position the needle, but there are some general guides. I'll use the Honda stock carb:

The Honda jet needle has 3 notches. For a piped engine, there's really not a lot of options; clip closest to the point of the needle - richest position. In the unlikely event it's too rich, it stumbles, burbles smokes and runs cold on sustained part-throttle. In that case you MIGHT try the needle in the middle position, but I'm betting that would make it too lean at part-throttle.

If you have a Polini or other aftermarket, put the needle in the middle and play off the pilot size and the air adjustment screw. If you changed from a 35 to a 45, that's a really big jump. Consider that the ideal pilot size for your setup is something in-between.

Sorry for your cracked bowl - these carbs are robust but sure not bulletproof, particularly the Chinese castings. Go easier on the Wheaties?

haha Wheaties comment noted thanks
I actually went from a 45 down to a 35. ive been messin with needle adjustments and mine has 5 notches and im at the one up from the richest position and it seems to rev up to a certain rpm then go duh duh like a stumble and then will continue to accelerate.
btw thanks for the help wheelman I am in no way coming on here saying tell me what my jets should be just trying to get an idea on what sounds mean what you know

Greetings:

And thus we arrive at the real limitations of the typed word when attempting to describe sounds, feelings and smells. Duh-duh-duh and BRRRAAAAPP don't translate well.

A 10-unit pilot size jump may be just too wide; can you try something in the middle, like a 40? You can't completely compensate for the wrong pilot by moving the needle around. Set the clip at center, then try different pilots. You're looking for the pilot that gives best idle speed with the air screw about 1.5 turns out from lightly seated. Save the needle fine-tuning for after you're sure the pilot is correct. An accurate temp gauge is a real asset to this process, but ultimately it's trial and error. Keep at it. Sometimes it takes a while to get there, but linear response from idle to WOT is a beautiful thing. Or so they say - I've rarely been COMPLETELY happy with any of mine...

Wheelman-111 wrote:Greetings:

Duh-duh-duh and BRRRAAAAPP don't translate well.

That's pretty much how I'd always describe mine haha. Duh d-duh duh,BBRRRRAAAAAuuuuuuRRRAAAAPPPP, whirrrrrrr, duh duh d-duh, BRRRAAAAPPP stoplight to stoplight.

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