Rats
Moderator: Moderator
- Mormonmopedmaifa
- Spree
- Posts: 112
- Joined: Mon Jul 23, 1973 10:24 am
- Location: Loveland,Colorado
- Contact:
alright i tok apart carb .... good main jet #65, totally clean, it still does the same thing. could this be a bystarter isssue? still has the 15-16 miles and hour "speed limit" where it bogs out. when ti bogs out at like 15 you can hear the engine just coast down in rpms and then die( while its "coasting down" it rarely ever starts back up)
HELP ME!!!
HELP ME!!!
M>M<M
THE MAFIA STRIKES AGAIN!!!
ALMOST running spree!!!
THE MAFIA STRIKES AGAIN!!!
ALMOST running spree!!!
- Mormonmopedmaifa
- Spree
- Posts: 112
- Joined: Mon Jul 23, 1973 10:24 am
- Location: Loveland,Colorado
- Contact:
Have you checked the fuel filter and the fuel valve for cleanliness and fuel flow? If not, then that will be the thing to check out next. Make sure that the fuel strainer is free from rust and debris, and also clean out the fuel valve really well with compressed air/light solvent. Once everything is clean, make sure that the fuel valve operates correctly by putting @5lbs. of vacuum pressure on the vacuum connection piece(where the vacuum line normally hooks up to on the fuel valve). If you have a good consistent fuel flow coming out of the fuel line while doing this, then that most likely isn't the problem.
Also be sure to test the fuel flow with the vacuum line attached to the intake manifold, fuel line disconnected, and the engine being cranked over. If there is still as good of a flow as when you tested it earlier, then fuel flow isn't a problem. But if it's significantly lower, then you might want to check for things like vacuum leaks and overall compression. Other things to consider like what type of air filter you use on the carb could also be contributing factors.
I hope this helps, and let us know your observations after the tests mentioned above have been completed.
Good Luck,
JF
Also be sure to test the fuel flow with the vacuum line attached to the intake manifold, fuel line disconnected, and the engine being cranked over. If there is still as good of a flow as when you tested it earlier, then fuel flow isn't a problem. But if it's significantly lower, then you might want to check for things like vacuum leaks and overall compression. Other things to consider like what type of air filter you use on the carb could also be contributing factors.
I hope this helps, and let us know your observations after the tests mentioned above have been completed.
Good Luck,
JF
1978 Puch Free Spirit, a 1980 Honda NC50, a 1985 Honda Spree, and a 2005 Yamaha Zuma. Gotta love two-stroke power...
DARAT/MYSPREE: I'VE HAD ENOUGH OF YOUR BABBLING ON EVERY POST ABOUT ANYTHING BUT THE TOPIC. KEEP YOUR BABBLE TO THE CHAT BOARDS. I HAVE ZERO TOLERANCE FOR THIS CRAP ON THE TECH HELP BOARDS, AS YOU SHOULD BOTH BE AWARE FROM YOUR LONG STANDING AS MEMBERS. KNOCK IT OFF ALREADY!
Back to the issue: I think you have an air leak. Check your gaskets and orings on the carb mounting surfaces.
Back to the issue: I think you have an air leak. Check your gaskets and orings on the carb mounting surfaces.
Admin, Hondaspree.net
Buy air filters and gaskets here (Ebay): http://stores.ebay.com/noiseguysstore
Buy air filters and gaskets here (Amazon): www.amazon.com/shops/spreepower
Buy a t-shirt here: https://teespring.com/stores/spree-powersport-products
Buy air filters and gaskets here (Ebay): http://stores.ebay.com/noiseguysstore
Buy air filters and gaskets here (Amazon): www.amazon.com/shops/spreepower
Buy a t-shirt here: https://teespring.com/stores/spree-powersport-products
- Mormonmopedmaifa
- Spree
- Posts: 112
- Joined: Mon Jul 23, 1973 10:24 am
- Location: Loveland,Colorado
- Contact:
Alright how would i go about checkin for a leak ? im gettin a new bystarter also cuase my old one was a piece of crap ne ways and im tryin to eliminate any problems( the little pieces of plasiticc inside that hold in the brass cylinder on the end of the bystarer are broken off)
M>M<M
THE MAFIA STRIKES AGAIN!!!
ALMOST running spree!!!
THE MAFIA STRIKES AGAIN!!!
ALMOST running spree!!!
- Mormonmopedmaifa
- Spree
- Posts: 112
- Joined: Mon Jul 23, 1973 10:24 am
- Location: Loveland,Colorado
- Contact:
I also just remembered that holes on the new engines reed valve where slightly smaller( the holes you can can see the metal reeds through) than the holes on the old engines reed valve. so i put the valve with the bigger holes on the new engine ( bigger is beter and faster right?) im thinkin that might have sumthin to do with it . ill swap that out tomorrow or today and report the results...
i replaced the vaccuum hose today still exact same problem . noiseguy suggested that i check for leaks so i ran the motor and my dad moved around the intake and carb and there was no change in the way the motor ran . is there a better way to check than this?
i replaced the vaccuum hose today still exact same problem . noiseguy suggested that i check for leaks so i ran the motor and my dad moved around the intake and carb and there was no change in the way the motor ran . is there a better way to check than this?
M>M<M
THE MAFIA STRIKES AGAIN!!!
ALMOST running spree!!!
THE MAFIA STRIKES AGAIN!!!
ALMOST running spree!!!
Leak Paths:
Reed block should have been assembled with 2 new gaskets at the reed block and tightened to spec.
Brown plastic thermal decoupler between carb and manifold: rubber parts should not be touching, they should be on opposite sides. Inspect and replace these o-rings if they are flattened. Tighten to spec.
Inspect and replace bystarter o-ring if needed.
These are the main ones. Also check air tube from airbox to carb, and that the oil filter is not overoiled.
Otherwise, recheck your idle jet, b/c I think that's what the real issue is. You can send your carb to Greg at uspmale@yahoo.com for rebuild if you get tired of messing with it. He pulls all the jets and cleans them out.
Reed block should have been assembled with 2 new gaskets at the reed block and tightened to spec.
Brown plastic thermal decoupler between carb and manifold: rubber parts should not be touching, they should be on opposite sides. Inspect and replace these o-rings if they are flattened. Tighten to spec.
Inspect and replace bystarter o-ring if needed.
These are the main ones. Also check air tube from airbox to carb, and that the oil filter is not overoiled.
Otherwise, recheck your idle jet, b/c I think that's what the real issue is. You can send your carb to Greg at uspmale@yahoo.com for rebuild if you get tired of messing with it. He pulls all the jets and cleans them out.
Admin, Hondaspree.net
Buy air filters and gaskets here (Ebay): http://stores.ebay.com/noiseguysstore
Buy air filters and gaskets here (Amazon): www.amazon.com/shops/spreepower
Buy a t-shirt here: https://teespring.com/stores/spree-powersport-products
Buy air filters and gaskets here (Ebay): http://stores.ebay.com/noiseguysstore
Buy air filters and gaskets here (Amazon): www.amazon.com/shops/spreepower
Buy a t-shirt here: https://teespring.com/stores/spree-powersport-products