Question about crankshaft removal

[devenex]

I picked up the steering wheel puller for $9 at HF and have the wood just sitting around. So I'm looking at the additional cost of bolts and washers to enable it to press the crank out.

As for putting it back in...$60 for the tusk

[bonesv]

Try this one http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/43/ ... -Separator and save the mallet for the light stuff. Yes, I've used a mallet too.

Happy Trails!

[breaze]

I have re-installed 2 cranks using washers - not sure how wise but it seems to be the same concept as a puller and both situations turned out well. Obviously a Tusk puller is the way to go, but if you are short on cash...

I stacked washers up to the nut on the end of each side (one side at a time) and tightened the nut - gradually pulling the shaft through. You can pull it about a quarter of an inch each time, then add another washer or two and repeat. It takes a little longer, but seems to work fine. In my case, the one thing I have plenty of is old washers in different sizes.

I am not a physicist (probably can't even spell it right) or an experienced mechanic, so I am not recommending this method, just throwing out an alternative for comments.

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

Fortunately the shaft is a pretty soft fit into its bearings. Still it would be a pity to bugger those fine threads on the end of the crank itself. I'd make sure that the washer stack leaves plenty of thread exposed for the nut to pull on, and work it in using very short (like, less than 4mm) "steps". Otherwise, too few threads engaged could strip off the shaft before it moved over the inner bearing race. Exercise great caution as the shaft shoulder bottoms out, too!

The Tusk Puller engages ALL of the threaded section, then has honkin'-big-* Mega-Threads on the tool to do the hard work. I can get a crank installed in just a few minutes using it.

[breaze]

Good point - wouldn't be the first time that scrimping on tools ended up costing me more by screwing something up.

[devenex]

Got the crank out, thanks for all the advice everyone. Used a piece of 2x6 I had laying around and the HF steering wheel puller. The only parts I had to go out and get were the bolts, costing a whopping $1.20.

Heres some picks (crank successfully pressed out already):






It was in there pretty tight. Didn't budge as I kept turning the bolt, all while carefully watching the 2x6, then a finally a pop sound and the crank started moving.

If you look carefully you can see some bits of the rings:

[Trafficjamz]

If you look carefully you can see some bits of the rings:

Good thing you decided to do a total rebuild.

[devenex]

Good thing you decided to do a total rebuild.

Only about 2/3rds of both rings were on the piston, with the rest nowhere in sight. And no pieces were found when I first split the case. Somehow everything went to the toughest place to get to, go figure.

But I've had fun getting this motor apart, hopefully everything goes as smoothly when its time to go back together.

[Trafficjamz]

Good thing you decided to do a total rebuild.

Only about 2/3rds of both rings were on the piston, with the rest nowhere in sight. And no pieces were found when I first split the case. Somehow everything went to the toughest place to get to, go figure.

But I've had fun getting this motor apart, hopefully everything goes as smoothly when its time to go back together.

The tusk puller makes it pretty simple.

Place the bearings in the freezer and heat up the case with a heat gun, and you will have no problems installing the bearings.