Sa50p starts and runs for 30 secs then dies

[sirtokalotadank]

I got the oil pump gear shaft out finally.....Another question for yall my scooter uses a 19.4x31x7 crank oil seal do u think ill be ok if i use a 20x31x7 since i already have one?

[Pete M]

I suspect that you put the head on 90 degrees out and it is not getting sufficient air flow across the head and fins.

[Trafficjamz]

Sounds like a dirty fuel filter or bad petcock.

Clean the carb again.

The pilot jet is probably clogged up.

[sirtokalotadank]

Pete what do u mean by 90 Degrees Out?.....And does anyone happen to have a spare bystarter?

[bonesv]

Pete what do u mean by 90 Degrees Out?.....And does anyone happen to have a spare bystarter?

Check PM for bystarter.

[swflcarl]

Traffic Jamz is mostly likely on it.

PILOT CIRCUIT... sound like a recent problem that I recently had.

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=25144

If you scroll through this.... I even posted some YouTube videos in the string of how it would start and die. My main jet needle was out of wack (someone was adjusting all the way to the rich side and then some) to get this thing to idle - this caused my rig to bog and full throttle. I set back to factory setting and cleared the pilot - and daddy is back in business.

My pilot circuit was open but not fully clear...

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B9YbHBk ... s0aU0/edit

1) The pilot circuit starts with a brass tube down the carb bowl (adjacent to main jet and emulsion tube chamber that goes up to the main throttle body) 2) the pilot up brass tube has 2 holes (in the tube itself that can be seen looking down the air adjustment screw chamber) 3) the air adjustment chamber logically links the pilot gas up tube holes to an air opening near intake side of the carb (one of three air holes / ports adjacent to the intake side) 4) the brass tube continues up to a very small hole / jet in the main chamber adjacent to the throttle body & needle seat.

This is my attempt to explain the pilot circuit - hoping it helps. The jet / hole in main chamber is the smallest in the whole carb and is most likely the first to be obstructed.

The fact that you start indicates that the by-starter related carb circuit is clear and working well. As the bystarter needle closes the bystarter circuit (after ~30 seconds via 12 volt application) - you are on only the pilot circuit for running / idling. (THIS IS WHEN YOU DIE)

Pull your carb and shine a BRIGHT LED light through the top (where the throttle linkage mounts) cover your main jet port (with you thumb)... and see if you can see light through the brass pilot tube.

I could see light... but it was still not fully clear. I got small rubber tube that fit on the brass pilot tube and linked it the carb cleaner can closed the air adjustment screw -- gave it H3LL for a good bit and opened the circuit fully.

Give it a try....

[Pete M]

On a stock engine the main reasons for overheating would be insufficient fuel supply, either jet or fuel to the bowl. If when you replaced the cylinder you could have bolted the head on 90 degrees out. By meaning 90 degrees out, the fins on the head direct the air produced by the fan that is mounted on the flywheel. If it is out, the proper amount of cooling air will not flow accross the head and cylinder fins properly.