did i F up my bearing putting it back in?

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

If your installation is a little askew, or if you accidentally hit the inner ring of the bearing knocking it in, that thing should be knocked back out and replaced. If not, it may fail shortly after startup, disintegrate and quite possiblytake out the other bearing, your connecting rod and the top end with it. It's considerably less work to fix the uncertainty now.

[mmeadows]

wheelman you are my favorite moderator, that being said, as i look at me entirely back together engine with its new gaskets and sandblasted case, and i read your post, i hate you right now.

lol im jking but seriously if anything felt different after i put it in , does it mean that i broke it? i don't want to order a new gasket set and crank bearings and seals just because im paranoid

by askew do you mean the bearing isn't in its "seat" or "race" evenly?

the inner ring being hit, is this the dark colored ring with bumbs on it for the ball bearing or the shinny circumference on the outside of the bearing? or the shinny most inner circumference?

[evilone]

if anything felt different after i put it in , does it mean that i broke it?

New bearings will add a little more resistance since the bearings are not worn out and are probably packed with grease but it shouldn't be "rough"

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

The bearing consists of an outer and inner grooved rings, called Races. Balls roll in the grooves.
Installing in a tight case must overcome considerable friction between tha Outer Race and the aluminum bearing socket. Strike the outer race ONLY with an appropriately-sized socket as hard as you please, but even Tapping the inner race causes the balls to dent the grooves. Failure to seat the bearing squarely stresses the assembly. Both will make the bearing roll rough. I would not start that engine until both bearings feel the same.

[mmeadows]

where did all of jacknbs posts go. i know i cant fully delete my posts so how did he delete his?

i really hope moderators aren't erasing peoples existence now.

[kingkamehameha]

Did you tap the inner race or outer race?

[mmeadows]

last night i tore apart entire motor and pulled off the bearings ( went much quicker this time). ordered new ones today






from the top of this photo down, does it go; motor case, outter race, ball bearings, inner race, hole for crank?

am i understanding the terminology correctly here?

[paulpauly7]

correct

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

That looks good. How's it spin? Smooth now? Freezing the bearing and cooking the case to 275 or so makes installation a Lot easier. I had to disassemble Flash 6 once too, I know it's a pain, but you sleep better.

Tusk or Honda crank puller makes the assembly easy. It's really the only correct way to do it.

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

Neither the Tusk tool NOR the Honda puller support the inner race. The Pull does stress the inner race against the balls in the bearing, but it's a pretty light press fit and I do not believe it's an issue. I'm not sure how it would be possible to do as 51cc recommends with either tool. With 7 or 8 assemblies, I've never had a bearing failure using the Tusk tool. Once or twice my Honda dealer was kind enough (Appreciative of Free Pizza Lunch courtesy of Wheelman...) to lend me the Honda puller. The only advantage to that tool is that it lets you push the seal in precisely, but it doesn't support the bearing as I said.

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

I do see your caustic, abrasive and unnecessarily pugnacious point. The Honda tool does rest agains the inner race of the bearing on page 10-5 of the manual. I stand corrected, but plead that it was 4 years ago when I used it.

The press fit is still "light" in that it's non-interferential. If you measure the ID of the bearing, it's just about the same as the OD of the crank, unlike the "Hard" press fit of the axle gear, for example, where the dimensions are hypercritical. The physics of separation cause the bearing to stick to the crank most of the time, but it's not all that hard to remove with a bearing separator unless the engine's been overheated.

The main point is in my own 7 or 8 engine assemblies, not to mention Baka-san's 85-mph MHR, (Not sure if he has the $200 Honda tool or not...) the $65 Tusk tool has proved to be just fine. I make sure the crank is centered in the bearing, and if I meet with undue resistance, I reposition and start again. The shaft usually slides in with fingertip pressure on the wrench -like Buttah - so I doubt the balls are denting the hardened steel races. And none have grenaded so far...

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

In "last question", 51cc axt-ed:

how come when you say install the bearings, into the case, to apply even pressure across both races[?]

That is Not what I said. Scroll up to page 2 to read:

Strike the outer race ONLY with an appropriately-sized socket as hard as you please,...

So do you have the Honda puller, 51cc?

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

Care to share, my brother?

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

I'm always willing to consider a better way. You seem to be saying you have one, but not helping the forum keeping it secret.

[paulpauly7]

hey jacknbs oh i mean 51cc tell us your amazing way of doing it then if your so sure everyone is wrong