Can't get Spree to Start. No Vacuum?

[Meloshameless]

You kept fighting and won the battle! Congrats.

[patthesoundguy]

Right On!!! You got it!!! How great does it feel. Now all of the other stuff is already taken care of you can get down to beating the crap out the poor thing in a nice way

[Ultraliner]

Awesome stuff!! These little things are quite good at getting you down when they dont wanna play ball... Tis a good feeling when you crack it huh

[pprice]

So bad news again. I worked on some other things for a while and got everything ready to ride, but when I tried to start it again, it wouldn't go. Sometimes it will start for like a second if I have the throttle wide open but still dies pretty quickly. That doesn't happen very often though.

I cleaned the carb again, just to make sure everything was good, but still no luck. I pulled the plug and turned over the engine with my hand over the plug hole and there was a little bit of gas on my hand, but to me, it doesn't seem to be enough for how long I was turning the engine over.

I took off the belt pulley just to make sure that the crankshaft seal didn't lose its seal and I lost vacuum again, but that was fine. I'll have to rent the flywheel puller to check the other side.

[NB50clonePGO6GOD]

Bing 1 for kick start mod!

[NB50clonePGO6GOD]

Happy for ya and that's coming from a clone guy, my clone whips * slept 18 of its 29 year life in a garage no manuals available, had to custom build mine on a dish top. Lucky me for free.

[otto-man]

Sounds like you've gone through everything. I'll add my 2 cents worth. Have you checked the carb float to see if it is within specs? You can't adjust them, so if it's not about 12 mm, it has to be replaced. Check that and also maybe replace the petcock with a new one. Hopefully you can get it running cause riding season is almost here. Good luck!

[NB50clonePGO6GOD]

Sounds like you've gone through everything. I'll add my 2 cents worth. Have you checked the carb float to see if it is within specs? You can't adjust them, so if it's not about 12 mm, it has to be replaced. Check that and also maybe replace the petcock with a new one. Hopefully you can get it running cause riding season is almost here. Good luck!

Pop could also be a improper adjusted air idle mixture even with slight vaccumm leak it should fire over if its too rich you would pop too.

air mixture scrrw should be adjusted no higher then 2 1/8 turns starting at 1/8 a turns per adjustment turning it out leans the mixture turning in Richens it.


If your carb dribbles in off position that's a bad petcock or sticky float needle.

If it dribbles while cranking then pops (lack of air.)


I'm running a manual gravity inline on/off switch routed slightly up the chassis turned lease then a 1/8th when the suction stops, the fuel tilts back inside the tank.


A bad air filter can cause pop too but it sounds more likely the carbs thrown out of adjustment. I use cheap silicone lines with clamps. So I can view the full operating system of gas and oil in a big way by me being a clone they did not have a manual for my bike or specs. Visual is everything, BTW shoot some air in the gas lines could be a tiny invisible dirt clod from tank debris when I recently replaced my new old line partisl fix I was supprises when I blew the black piece of hose out it popped something chunky out but I never saw it on the ground.


BTW thumbs up found my first real build spree parts case I'm thinking stroker nq double rings no oil control ring with non fouler installed with a 40mm gap NGK setting. 40 is good for increasing idle which increases power and fuel consumption.

[pprice]

I haven't measured the float, but it seems to be working fine. The bowl is always full, but doesn't dribble out. Petcock is good too. I checked that I was getting spark still and everything is good on that front. Air filter is new and has been oiled correctly. I cleaned the carb out good again to make sure there weren't any clogs. Air screw is set to 1 7/8 per the manual. Not sure what's left and it's a shame since today is supposed to be mid 50's and I wanted to take it out.

[NB50clonePGO6GOD]

I haven't measured the float, but it seems to be working fine. The bowl is always full, but doesn't dribble out. Petcock is good too. I checked that I was getting spark still and everything is good on that front. Air filter is new and has been oiled correctly. I cleaned the carb out good again to make sure there weren't any clogs. Air screw is set to 1 7/8 per the manual. Not sure what's left and it's a shame since today is supposed to be mid 50's and I wanted to take it out.

Doubt on that float height something's funky, did you try starting it on .40 plug gap?

If that didn't work then you have got a severe air leak for sure where you that guy who found a bad crank bearing? Air leak is the killer of 2t.

[pprice]

I haven't tried with a .040 gap yet. It's set at what the manual says right now. Yeah, I was the one with the bad crank seals. I replaced both of them and checked the one on the belt side again and it's fine. Maybe something happened to the flywheel one. I'll go rent a puller again and check it out. I don't think it would have somehow moved though.

[NB50clonePGO6GOD]

I haven't tried with a .040 gap yet. It's set at what the manual says right now. Yeah, I was the one with the bad crank seals. I replaced both of them and checked the one on the belt side again and it's fine. Maybe something happened to the flywheel one. I'll go rent a puller again and check it out. I don't think it would have somehow moved though.

Do .40 on the plug after you clean it if it fires your issue lies in the carby if she warms then stalls there is a clip height error. Clip height in paticular is at the 3rd or 4th on the enrichner raising clip notches leans lowering Richens it on the by starter side vs versa for the throttle clip.

After you find good running point , change gap back to 0.24-0.28

If its wet lean your clip height on the throttle circuit.

Play with those positions on test drive lighlty and you should be set.


Map out: enrichner circuit (black box) first then if stalls after warm go to throttle clip side.
Also

Pop can indicate blown head gasket as well.

[pprice]

Both of the crankshaft seals still look good and the oil pump is sealed well too. I'm not sure where else I could be getting a leak from. The intake doesn't seem to be sucking too hard. I put my finger over it and it just lightly sucks, I thought it would be more and right after I replaced the crank seals it seemed to be more.

It's just not getting fuel and I don't know why. Spraying fuel in there makes it run fine for a bit, but then it gets starved out and dies cause nothing is coming from the carb.

My buddy has a Spree too and I put his carb on there and it still didn't work. His was sitting for 13 years though, so who knows if it's plugged or not. So either something is clogged in the carb (I cleaned it really good twice now and blew compressed air through all the holes) or I'm not getting suction again.

[pprice]

So I think I finally got it. I took the carb apart for the third time and found a little piece that could be removed that I never noticed before because it seemed stuck in there (picture of the little thing below). It was pretty filthy so I scrubbed it up and put everything back together. I also found out that the throttle stop screw needs to be a lot farther in than I had it. So it seems like it was a combination of that little dirty part and the throttle stop screw. I ran it for about 20 mins and adjusted the throttle stop and air mixture screws and everything seems to be working pretty good so far. The true test is if it will actually start again tomorrow!

http://imgur.com/GTEy4ki

[motormike]

Well done...
That tube is commonly called the "emulsification" tube.
Those holes must be open to function properly.