1994 Elite S Questions

[schwarz633]

My son bought this modded SA50P a few months ago at college and now I have it for winter storage. I believe the seller said it's derestricted and I think there were some spare parts involved, but I haven't seen them. I recall a variator spring and possibly some gears being listed in the ad. He also said the oil pump is tie wrapped wide open.

It has been giving him starting problems as it's been getting colder, and yesterday when I picked it up it wouldn't start (20┬░F). It's stored in a heated space (50┬░F) and today it started right up. I've been researching the bystarter and was wondering if an eBay $10 unit is an option over the $80 OEM part.

I also want to replace the tires and discovered the following:

Front
3.00x10 42J
Bridgestone MOLAS-24 ML24D
wheel is stamped J10x1.85
tube is installed
tire is cracked, may be original

Rear
90/90-10 50J
IRC MB65
wheel is stamped "tubeless application" or something like that
no tube installed

From what I've read, this rear wheel must have been upgraded.

At this point I plan on ordering a couple of Michelin S1 tires in 3.00-10 and 90/90-10. Anyone see any problem in that?

There is also a funky LED headlight mounted to the front and the OEM headlight isn't working. Is there a replaceable 25W/25W bulb in the OEM headlight assembly, or do you have to replace the entire unit?

[Meatball]

The stock rims are not able to run tubeless tires. Keep that in mind when buying tires. Also, you should test the bystarter before buying a new one. The $10 replacement ones have been known to be junk, if you need one youre better off buying a used OEM one in working condition. Brand new OEM ones on Ebay are too overpriced.

The variator has no springs. The clutch does.

You should take some time and educate yourself by reading ALOT before pulling your wallet out.

[Meloshameless]

Even if its listed as Tubeless those tires work fine, but obviously still need to use the tube. I have one mounted now.

[MrJumps]

My son bought this modded SA50P a few months ago at college and now I have it for winter storage. I believe the seller said it's derestricted and I think there were some spare parts involved, but I haven't seen them. I recall a variator spring and possibly some gears being listed in the ad. He also said the oil pump is tie wrapped wide open.

Headlight- no, but you can dermal the old bulb out and solider a notched bulb in.
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=12760

I would replace both tires with tubeless s1s but put tube in it still unless you get a metropolitan rear rim. Front wheel definitely needs a tube, but the rear I have seen people do it, but I honestly would not.

20*F is pretty cold, how hard is it to start on the 50*F day? Like right up and it stays running? If the rpms are high then as it warms up they drop your by-starter is not the issue.

Also if he said it was DE-restricted it probably has been wire tied open at the oil pump, variation backing plate removed, and removed a tab in the airbox, dremeled out a washer on the exhaust, and up jetted the bike. If he did the mods right. Gears are a common mod on these bikes, how does it take off and whats its top speed?

http://www.hondaspree.net/phpBB3/viewto ... t=19319url

[schwarz633]

I checked the rear rim again, and it's stamped "TUBELESS TIRE APPLICABLE" & "J10 x 2.15", so I'm pretty sure it's been upgraded to a Metro rim. I ordered the Michelin S1's in 3.00-10 & 90/90-10, just like what's on there now. I ordered a new tube for the front and will run the rear tubeless.

It started right up at 50┬░F, and the idle was high. It was indoors so I didn't let it run long enough to warm up. I'll take it outside and let it warm up and see if the RPM's drop as you suggested. I think I'll perform the bystarter test, just to better understand it if nothing else.

I'll look into that headlight mod as well.

[MrJumps]

Okay sounds good, dont go ordering a new bystarter without asking someone if they have one on hand. A used one is better than a new one.

[schwarz633]

I have now discovered that the stock headlight does work if I apply 12VDC from the battery directly to the bulb terminals. This leads me to believe that the AC output from the alternator isn't working (yellow wire). And rather than fix that, the previous owner stuck the LED headlight on and wired it to the 12VDC source that's powered through the ignition switch (black wire). So now I'm wondering if the bystarter is even getting powered, as it's fed from the AC alternator winding as well. Any thoughts on this?

I bought a left brake lever on eBay for $8.15 which was listed as an aftermarket 53178-GS7-670. It's an EMGO 30-24191 from Niche Cycle Supply. It fits, but the parking brake feature is no longer functioning. The parking brake lever pin just won't catch on the lever as it's shaped just a little differently.

[MrJumps]

Well wireing is never fun is the wireharness butchard or did po just run cables along side to bypass certain items?

[MrJumps]

You could takw the bystarter out warm it up, start the bike and see if it runs difrently.

[schwarz633]

False alarm on the lighting. Once I realized that the engine needs to be running for the headlight to operate, I discovered that it works just fine. I would like to upgrade to the 35/35W HS1 headlight bulb, do I just order the 2001 headlight assembly (33120-GS7-A81 $34), or hack in an HS1 holder to what's there? I've seen the thread where someone did that with what appears to be JB Weld, but haven't been able to locate a holder. Any sources for that?

[MrJumps]

Not too sure.
I would just hack it.
JB will hold and its cheaper that way.