No Spark, Bad Exciter Coil I believe

[DKAudio]

Any ideas on what to do next? I can't even find any NB50 alternator exciter coils online. Not sure where to go from here.

[Mystic]

you can get the part number for the part you need then cross-reference it to see what other models that particular part fits. It may be easier to get the part for one of the other models. There are very few parts that were specifically made for 1 scoot. For example I think the petcock cover on the Spree was only made for the Spree but the float is used on the Spree, the Elite and maybe the aero

[wood10214]

Well, I found that I don't have spark. I did some resistance readings per the manual...
The coil resistance seems fine.
The pulse generator was good, about 160 ohms.
The alternator excited coil gave me a reading in the mega ohms.

Should I that or do you have any other troubleshooting tips to make sure?

I thought you still can start it, just need to crank more time, how can you have no spark?

[DKAudio]

Well, I found that I don't have spark. I did some resistance readings per the manual...
The coil resistance seems fine.
The pulse generator was good, about 160 ohms.
The alternator excited coil gave me a reading in the mega ohms.

Should I that or do you have any other troubleshooting tips to make sure?

I thought you still can start it, just need to crank more time, how can you have no spark?

As the thread title says, usually after the scooter sits for a few days it takes a good two minutes or so for it to start to fire. However, I tried starting it last week and cranked so long the battery died and I never heard it begin to fire. I have been trying to figure out what is wrong and discovered on Sat that I have no spark at all. Therefore, something else is going on. I'm going to check my grounds today but my resistance readings for the alternator exciter coil were in the mega ohms.

[DKAudio]

Bump, anyone?

I did check my ignition and engine kill switch, both are perfect. I also checked ground and there is only my meters internal resistance for a reading (perfect).

I really don't know what to do next. I was going to pull the fan to get to the alternator but saw that a flywheel lock and a pully puller are needed which I don't have either.

[wood10214]

Start with the cheapest thing first, get the new spark plug (if it has no spark).

[mousewheels]

I'm going to check my grounds today but my resistance readings for the alternator exciter coil were in the mega ohms.

You will need to track down the cause of the spark exciter coil being way to high resistance. It's the electrical equivalent of trying to run full throttle with a clogged main and pilot

A happy failure would be a wiring or connector fault external to the engine case on that Black/Red stripe wire (exciter coil), or a ground side fault on the stator. But you've been checking grounds...

Do what you can to be positive the failure is inside the case before you borrow or buy the needed tools. Poke, prod, open up a wire and measure connectivity.

[DKAudio]

Start with the cheapest thing first, get the new spark plug (if it has no spark).

That was the first thing I did. I also checked for arcing to the block from the spark plug wire, nothing.

I'm going to check my grounds today but my resistance readings for the alternator exciter coil were in the mega ohms.

You will need to track down the cause of the spark exciter coil being way to high resistance. It's the electrical equivalent of trying to run full throttle with a clogged main and pilot

A happy failure would be a wiring or connector fault external to the engine case on that Black/Red stripe wire (exciter coil), or a ground side fault on the stator. But you've been checking grounds...

Do what you can to be positive the failure is inside the case before you borrow or buy the needed tools. Poke, prod, open up a wire and measure connectivity.

I've gone as far as I can and all the wiring looks fine. I took off the fan and got the flywheel nut off without any special tools, just rigged up my own flywheel lock. However, I don't have a puller so can't really go any deeper, I am going to order one at Harbor Freight.

[mousewheels]

Ok - ready to inspect internally - consider a purpose built flywheel puller. I've had mine about 7 yrs, it's fast, reliable, small and will never damage a stator. If you use a HF general purpose puller, and pull from the fan bolts, be careful the bolt threads go just far enough to be fully threaded in the flywheel.

-- One of many great Wheelman photos --
Wheelman long ago got a flywheel puller, and wrote about its virtues. These are sub $20 items. This is a good long term item for the toolbox

[cohibarandy]

Have you tried spraying starting fluid in the carb?

[Bear45-70]

Have you tried spraying starting fluid in the carb?

DO NOT USE STARTING FLUID ON 2 STROKE ENGINES.............................EVER!

The starting fluid, AKA ether washes all the oil off the cylinder walls there by unlubricating your engine. Ether is also an explosive and if it explodes in the crankcase you will blow out your reeds minimum.

If you need to prime your engine use an oil squirt can or a plastic squirt bottle filled with a 32 to 1 premix of gas and oil.

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

The Tusk flywheel puller is the Correct Way, but there are others.

I've pulled them using a generic Harbor Freight harmonic balancer puller using Honda long M6 bolts and a stack of washers. Just be careful not to thread the bolts very far into the mag-wheel, as the protruding ends will bugger up the copper coils.

ChevyGuyJay was able to knock them off putting a nut on the crank end and then holding just the flywheel, pounding firmly on the crank. Quick, effective, but not recommended for Precision Work.

YMMV.

[DKAudio]

I've tried putting the nut on and pounding and could not get it off. I also tried making my own makeshift puller and the scrap metal I used just bent. I ordered a puller from Harbor Freight 3 weeks ago, the item is apparantly out of stock. It finally is shipping so hopefully I will get this flywheel off and can inspect some things. I am still not entirely sure what to look for once I am in there. I see the pulse generator that gets an induced voltage when the magnet on the flywheel passes by. This device measures good, it is the alternator exciter coil that I am getting an open reading with. What/where is this exactly? There is not much mention of it in the manual other than what the ohmic value should be.

[mousewheels]

it is the alternator exciter coil that I am getting an open reading with. What/where is this exactly? There is not much mention of it in the manual other than what the ohmic value should be.

On the '85-87 Aero, the stator contains multiple coils. The spark exciter coil is different from the battery charge and headlight coils. Those coils have few turns of thick wire, the spark exciter has many turns of thin wire. This puts out a few hundred volt pulse to charge the capacitor in the CDI. Also, you can follow the stator wire colors into the correct coil.

[Trafficjamz]

it is the alternator exciter coil that I am getting an open reading with. What/where is this exactly? There is not much mention of it in the manual other than what the ohmic value should be.

On the '85-87 Aero, the stator contains multiple coils. The spark exciter coil is different from the battery charge and headlight coils. Those coils have few turns of thick wire, the spark exciter has many turns of thin wire. This puts out a few hundred volt pulse to charge the capacitor in the CDI. Also, you can follow the stator wire colors into the correct coil.

The exciter coil is the only one that has anything to do with the scooter running.

We have made "race" stators that only have the exciter coil left.