Still struggling on ignition diagnostics.

Kikwear · Post by **Kikwear** » Thu Feb 02, 2006 6:41 pm

According to the ohm resistance tests starting on 14-7, everything is within spec except the alternator exciter coil and the primary and secondary coil test. I removed the flywheel and the exciter coil wire (blk/red) is continuous between the socket that plugs into the bike and the double prong that ends at the alternator. What does that touch anyway? The wiring diagram makes it seem like it grounds somewhere, yet I can't get a continuous tone or any resistance between any point on the wire and a ground. Next, the coil has resistance in the primary section of 1.8-1.9 ohms but is out of spec. However, there is no resistance between the green and cap. The cap is screwed tightly into the wire. Is the coil toast? I still have no spark. That is what my problem is.

Regulator/Rectifier
- battery charging (red and green) actual=battery voltage
- white and engine ground (spec 0.5-3.0) actual=1.9
- yellow and engine ground (spec 0.3-2.0) actual=1.6

Alternator
- white and engine ground (spec 0.5-3.0) actual=1.9-2.0
- yellow and engine ground (spec 0.3-2.0) actual=1.5-1.6

CDI plug
- blk/yel and grn (spec 0.1-0.3) actual=1.8-1.9
- green and high tension (spec 7.4-11K) actual=no reading
- blk/red and ground (spec 750-1200) actual=no reading
- blue/yel and grn (spec 50-200) actual=121.1
- blk/wht and grn (continuity test) actual=works normally

Ignition coil
- primary resistance (spec 0.1-0.3) actual=1.6-1.7

JF · Post by JF » Thu Feb 02, 2006 10:57 pm

Read through this throughly, and you'll see that I went through a similar problem as you are going through right now. Hopefully it'll at least give you a few more ideas to work with, and let me know if you have any questions.

Good luck,
JF

Kikwear · Post by **Kikwear** » Fri Feb 03, 2006 11:19 am

At first, I thought it might be the alternator but I was reading some old threads and I realized that I do get a faint glow from my headlight when I turn it over, meaning the alternator is generating current and trying to light the headlight. So, with the coil out of spec, I believe it may be the culprit. I am going to pull the coil out of my Bronco later on, hook it up and see if I can get a spark before I start spedning money on replacement parts.

JF · Post by JF » Fri Feb 03, 2006 12:01 pm

Good point, but remember, just because the headlight is getting power while you're cranking the engine over, doesn't necessarily mean that the alternator is ok. Yes, it's entirely possible that the outer coil is at fault, but it might also be the alternator exciter coil, aka the primary ignition coil. It's the coil that generates the power for the outer ignition coil, and it's independent from the lighting and charging coil. So make sure and remember that when thinking about what parts to buy, so as to not make the 75+ dollar mistake that I did when I replaced the outer ignition coil and the CDI unit first...

I don't want to push you in a wrong direction, rather just making sure that you have plenty of options open and ideas to work with.

JF

Kikwear · Post by **Kikwear** » Fri Feb 03, 2006 1:29 pm

I don't understand the alternator exciter coil. I tried the resistance test between the red/blk and ground and got nothing. I turned the flywheel and can see where the red/blk ends in the alternator windings. It is a little double tooth but it doesn't look like it touches anything. There is continuity between the tooth and the disconnect plug. Is something missing?

Kikwear · Post by **Kikwear** » Wed Feb 08, 2006 4:22 pm

I believe the alternator exciter coil is still the root of my problems. There is no power getting to the coil when I crank the motor so I am still under the impression that the exciter is the problem, however, I can't see where it would ground itself to perform a resistance test. Where does the exciter (red/blk) ground?

JF · Post by JF » Wed Feb 08, 2006 4:56 pm

I'm not sure, but you should be able to get a reading if the positive wire on the multi-meter is touching the black/red wire, and if the negative wire is touching something metal like the frame. If you are sure that the wires are good and snuggly connected while testing this, and yet you still get no reading, then something may be wrong with the exciter coil like you said. Oh and I think that the exciter coil is grounded by the metal of the alternator's mounting bracket touching the metal crankcase(thats why you can test the coil by touching the negative cable to any metal that is attached or otherwise linked to the metal frame/crankcase).

If the testing still proves to be unfruitful, then I would suggest either borrowing or buying a new stator plate. Usually that part is the last thing you would think of to replace, but it might be your only option at this point...

JF

Kikwear · Post by **Kikwear** » Wed Feb 08, 2006 5:08 pm

Is the exciter coil the large black box on the stator setup?

JF · Post by JF » Wed Feb 08, 2006 7:28 pm

Yes, it'll be black and a little bigger that the other coils on the stator.

JF

Kikwear · Post by **Kikwear** » Wed Feb 08, 2006 9:34 pm

Crap...it doesn't look serviceable. I guess I'll try a used one. They don't look too expensive.

JF · Post by JF » Thu Feb 09, 2006 12:19 am

Heck I got my used stator for around $25, and it came with the flywheel/pulser unit too! So yea, as long as you don't try to buy a NOS or new stator(anywhere from 70-150 dollars 8O ) then you should be alright.

Good luck, and let us/me know when you get that stator plate in.

JF