odinxxix wrote:... im not understanding why you squeezed the clutch? if you removed the nut holding the variator then it will come right off. ...
To drop the belt in towards the center. This gives more slack to put the belt back around the crank shaft during reassembly.
themeltingclovk-
I mean check the rollers to be sure there isn't one sideways. That would really screw with the shifting and can stop it from shifting all the way down. Is it bogging like your engine is not producing the power it used to or bogging like your gears are too tall?
odinxxix wrote:... im not understanding why you squeezed the clutch? if you removed the nut holding the variator then it will come right off. ...
To drop the belt in towards the center. This gives more slack to put the belt back around the crank shaft during reassembly.
themeltingclovk-
I mean check the rollers to be sure there isn't one sideways. That would really screw with the shifting and can stop it from shifting all the way down. Is it bogging like your engine is not producing the power it used to or bogging like your gears are too tall?
Its bogging down on the first third of the revs. Its way down on power in that portion. That could be due to the tall gears issue you're describing, no? I went out tonight and reseated the air filter parts and the issue still persists. Tomorrow I'm going to take the whole thing apart again and remove the grease plate and button it back up.
The screws that hold the air filter case on are almost completely stripped, could that be the cause of the air leak? When I started it earlier it was smoking a lot more than usual...due to the air leak?
odinxxix wrote:wait! o-ring on the vari? no i dont think so. any way di you clean your carb yet?. the vari you swapped out should not be restricted(the plate on the back) remove if there is one and put it back together. im not understanding why you squeezed the clutch? if you removed the nut holding the variator then it will come right off. fisrt and for most remove the carb and clean it real good then do it again twice noone gets it right the first time. then report back and let us know where you are in speed.
Thing is, it ran pretty well before swapping out the variator.
odinxxix wrote:wait! o-ring on the vari? no i dont think so. any way di you clean your carb yet?. the vari you swapped out should not be restricted(the plate on the back) remove if there is one and put it back together. im not understanding why you squeezed the clutch? if you removed the nut holding the variator then it will come right off. fisrt and for most remove the carb and clean it real good then do it again twice noone gets it right the first time. then report back and let us know where you are in speed.
Thing is, it ran pretty well before swapping out the variator.
Easy test: swap in the original variator. If the problem persists, you have an engine issue. If the problem goes away, you have a transmission issue.
Welp, tried taking everything apart again. The bog is still there, but it _is_ better top speed. I'm going to order a couple smaller jets and new belt and see what happens then. Thanks for all your help to this point.
I can now see why fuel injection won over in the technology war. I just cannot figure this out!
I replaced the #88 jet with an #85, which is what Honda (and you) recommended for this altitude. THE BOG IS STILL THERE. The scooter is essentially unrideable at this point because it has no power off the line. Once rolling, it will start to pick up steam around 10MPH and then pull fairly normally until I run out of room. I've checked for vacum leaks, taken the carb apart to verify everything looks okay, got new gas in it....I'm just out of bloody ideas.
themeltingclock wrote:Welp, tried taking everything apart again. The bog is still there, but it _is_ better top speed. I'm going to order a couple smaller jets and new belt and see what happens then. Thanks for all your help to this point.
Turn the idle mixture screw in 1/4 turn and see if that fixes your problem.
Fuel injection, even simple mechanical not electronic fuel injection that everyone uses now, is a hundred times harder to troubleshoot and fix than a carb, plus being 5 times as expensive. Fuel injection won out because it allows for better mpg and emissions. But it is a major pain to tune when installing a new system, and you have to be computer smart not just engine smart.
Bear 45/70
'83 Aero 80 X 3
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Consider that something other than lack of motive power could be crippling your bottom end and take-off.
CVT that shifts too soon can do this. Weak/worn center spring and/or the heavy 9-g rollers thgat DayWot ships with his Keli are but two examples.
Too-strong clutch triplets can cause this effect too. The engine has to rev so high before the clutch engages that the tranny is already halfway shifted - like a car in 3rd - before the clutch bites.
On a related note, if the clutch pivots are sticking you may see the same symptoms.
If the belt is worn, the vario can act as a second, not terribly effective "clutch".. Same goes if using the wrong pullley boss.
I suggest tou carefully re-inspect all the tranny components befor returning to the engine/carb, except do a compression test first of all. It may reveal the lack of engine power after all. Also,on principle, install a new, correctly-gapped spark plug.
Wheelman-111
Most of my money is spent on scooterparts. The rest is just wasted.
"ISO": '03 Vespa ET4 Malossi187 74MPH
Flash 9: 2001 Elite SR Contesta 72 ZX Tran, 9:1 Gears, Stock Airbox/Carb/Pipe 58.8 MPH
Punkin: 2010 Vespa/Malossi S78, 61MPH
Consider that something other than lack of motive power could be crippling your bottom end and take-off.
CVT that shifts too soon can do this. Weak/worn center spring and/or the heavy 9-g rollers thgat DayWot ships with his Keli are but two examples.
Too-strong clutch triplets can cause this effect too. The engine has to rev so high before the clutch engages that the tranny is already halfway shifted - like a car in 3rd - before the clutch bites.
On a related note, if the clutch pivots are sticking you may see the same symptoms.
If the belt is worn, the vario can act as a second, not terribly effective "clutch".. Same goes if using the wrong pullley boss.
I suggest tou carefully re-inspect all the tranny components befor returning to the engine/carb, except do a compression test first of all. It may reveal the lack of engine power after all. Also,on principle, install a new, correctly-gapped spark plug.
I love this answer. I was literally in the process of removing the weights the Daywot shipped with his variator and replacing them with stock when I came back to read this. Voila! Back to new. I'm a little peeved at this daywot character for shipping with these weights if they don't work with the stock setup.
Thanks for everything, guys. Especially you, Wheelman.
Upon further reflection, I got 9s with the Keli and my first 65cc cortessa kit,
He asked about my setup and supplied 9s instead of the stock10s. To his credit, the 9s were an excellent choice for that setup.
Don't overlook a weak center spring or the othe issues I mentioned. The right rollers with the wrong spring won't work.
Wheelman-111
Most of my money is spent on scooterparts. The rest is just wasted.
"ISO": '03 Vespa ET4 Malossi187 74MPH
Flash 9: 2001 Elite SR Contesta 72 ZX Tran, 9:1 Gears, Stock Airbox/Carb/Pipe 58.8 MPH
Punkin: 2010 Vespa/Malossi S78, 61MPH
