Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

Bringing Spree back to life; neglected for years.
-New battery
-New spark plug (have spark)

Before Carb Rebuild:
-Turn on key
-Oil light is lit up
-Suck fuel into carb via the vac tube
-Start after 5-6 tries
-Throttle unresponsive - doesn't alter RPM and doesn't return to stop
-Run for 10 secs and die - won't restart
-Repeat 2-3 times

Note: Neither fuel nor oil appear to flow into carb while trying to start.
(added a couple ounces of oil to gas to keep from burning it up)

- After Carb Rebuild
-Replaced spring in throttle
-Turn on key
-Oil light is lit up
-Suck fuel into carb via the vac tube
-Starts after 5-6 tries
-Throttle works!
-Run for 10 secs and die - won't restart

-New plug is...still new - barely wet.
-Haven't checked compression (gauge died)

-Tried 2 different petcocks - same result, but both are suspect.
-Bystarter checked, per manual, appears to work???

Please advise what to check.

Thanks

My guess = Rust in the gas tank clogging the filter.

Trafficjamz wrote:My guess = Rust in the gas tank clogging the filter.

Thanks, but the tank appears clean and we can easily suck gas into the carb.
Td

wtdash wrote:

Trafficjamz wrote:My guess = Rust in the gas tank clogging the filter.

Thanks, but the tank appears clean and we can easily suck gas into the carb.
Td

Make a test "gastank" out of a 20 oz bottle and some fuel line.

If your scooter runs on the test tank, you will know that your petcock or fuel line is to blame.

You also might wanna check the vacuum line, that runs from the petcock to the intake, for leaks.

Sounds more like a missing aircleaner or airbox. Have those?

noiseguy wrote:Sounds more like a missing aircleaner or airbox. Have those?

We have the airbox, but need a better airfilter. Just a piece of foam in there now.

Thanks

Thanks for the ideas.

Update:

Made up a test gas tank as described and gas is getting to the carb AND flooding the engine. Enough gas in the cyl. to hydro lock it. Remove the plug and turn it over and gas come spewing out and plug is wet.

Shouldn't the float stop the flow of fuel?

Soaking petcock as it appears suspect,too.

Tested resistance on Bystarter/choke and it was 6.5ohms, so should be good. However, when checking the wiring harness, there was no voltage @ the bystarter's leads? Did I read it's AC voltage or only reads once running??

Thanks!
Td

wtdash wrote:
Tested resistance on Bystarter/choke and it was 6.5ohms, so should be good. However, when checking the wiring harness, there was no voltage @ the bystarter's leads? Did I read it's AC voltage or only reads once running??

Thanks!
Td

Voltage is only read once when running

wtdash wrote:Made up a test gas tank as described and gas is getting to the carb AND flooding the engine. Enough gas in the cyl. to hydro lock it. Remove the plug and turn it over and gas come spewing out and plug is wet.

Shouldn't the float stop the flow of fuel?

Yes, that's a major problem. Either carb is incorrectly put together or you need a new float needle.

So....got a 2nd carb from the original 'pro' and soaked the petcock for the last 2 weeks.

Also, a working bystarter from 'Trafficjamz' - Thanks.

It doesn't start/run thru the petcock.

But does run from the 'test tank' for a few seconds and dies. If I hold the throttle open - 1/2 to 3/4 - it'll run, w/the RPMS going up and down, and smokes bad, but probably due to too much oil in the 'test tank'.

Carb air screw is properly adjusted.

Next...fuel petcock replacement and taking suggestions about what the current 'running state' tells me to check next.

Thanks

wtdash wrote:So....got a 2nd carb from the original 'pro' and soaked the petcock for the last 2 weeks.

Also, a working bystarter from 'Trafficjamz' - Thanks.

It doesn't start/run thru the petcock.

But does run from the 'test tank' for a few seconds and dies. If I hold the throttle open - 1/2 to 3/4 - it'll run, w/the RPMS going up and down, and smokes bad, but probably due to too much oil in the 'test tank'.

Carb air screw is properly adjusted.

Next...fuel petcock replacement and taking suggestions about what the current 'running state' tells me to check next.

Thanks

To proper adjust the air screw, requires a warmed up motor and then adjust the screw from the initial setting, because that is all the number in the manual is, for the highest RPM possible. Then you adjust the IDLE SPEED screw until the rear wheel does not turn.

DOESN'T ANYBODY ACTUALLY READ THE F88KIN' MANUAL, RATHER THAN JUST FINDING THE NUMBER IN THE CHART FOR THE NUMBER OF TURNS TO START THE ADJUSTMENT FROM?

Bear45-70 wrote:
DOESN'T ANYBODY ACTUALLY READ THE F88KIN' MANUAL, RATHER THAN JUST FINDING THE NUMBER IN THE CHART FOR THE NUMBER OF TURNS TO START THE ADJUSTMENT FROM?

Ahhh f*** the manual....








Just kidding.

DOESN'T ANYBODY ACTUALLY READ THE F88KIN' MANUAL, RATHER THAN JUST FINDING THE NUMBER IN THE CHART FOR THE NUMBER OF TURNS TO START THE ADJUSTMENT FROM?

If I had a dollar for every time bear told someone to use the manual for carb/air screw issues....well, I'd probably have 10 bucks.

richdavison34 wrote:

DOESN'T ANYBODY ACTUALLY READ THE F88KIN' MANUAL, RATHER THAN JUST FINDING THE NUMBER IN THE CHART FOR THE NUMBER OF TURNS TO START THE ADJUSTMENT FROM?

If I had a dollar for every time bear told someone to use the manual for carb/air screw issues....well, I'd probably have 10 bucks.

Today you would, for the last month it would be a lot more.

It actually started RIGHT UP last nite...then promptly quit. If I cranked it repeatedly (a few seconds @ a time) it would eventually start/stop. If I held the throttle open, it would run a little longer then die. A lot of gas comes out exhaust and ends up on the floor after these episodes.

This is w/my 'test gas tank'. The only way to get gas into the carb when hooked to the petcock is to suck on the vac tube. I removed the tank and petcock and gas flowed freely...it's not a tank issue.

New petcock will need ordered.

It's once again filling the cylinder w/gas w/the 2nd carb...the starter slows down, I pull the plug, which is soaked, and run the starter for a few secs w/a rag over the top of the engine to soak up some of the fuel while it empties out.

I checked the spark and it arcs between the tip and the head @ least 1/2" that I read was good.

Checked compression: 115, which is OK. Manual states 113 minimum.

Since I can't get it to run for more than a couple of seconds, I'm not able to adjust the idle...it's not getting warmed up.

TD