cold start problems

[dun rite]

Hello Ok I admit it, i'm lost again. elite starts hard and won't idle when cold, but runs good with throttle applied. Have tested resistance of by-starter, resistor, hooked by-starter to battery works like its supposed to. checked and found voltage to by-starter when running. cleaned carb. again, and again, and again. etc. made sure all ports for starter enrichment system are open, and clean. even the itsy bitsy hole for the pilot jet.
Once warmed up it runs and idles great, can find no intake leaks using flammable spray around gaskets, and hoses. I am stumped. Any and all help appreciated, really like things to work the way there supposed to. thanks

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

Spark plug getting old? Change it out for a new one anyway. Sometimes that's all it is...

Muffler crudded?

Reed valves getting tired?

Vacuum leak at the crank-end seals?

Submitted in order of least PITA to check.

[dun rite]

thanks for the reply. all things are pretty much new. less than 60 miles on complete lower end and 50mm bbk. was working fine except petcock was no longer stopping fuel flow. replaced petcock, also put in oil pump plug and using repsol ( honda endorsed oil) premixed at 32-1. put it back together and doesnt like to start and idle cold. almost like enrichment system isnt enreiching. can accelerate fine when cold just wont idle. if i adjust it to idle while cold, when it warms up it idles way to high . frustrated at this point, can't pinpoint what i'm missing...

[Bear45-70]

thanks for the reply. all things are pretty much new. less than 60 miles on complete lower end and 50mm bbk. was working fine except petcock was no longer stopping fuel flow. replaced petcock, also put in oil pump plug and using repsol ( honda endorsed oil) premixed at 32-1. put it back together and doesnt like to start and idle cold. almost like enrichment system isnt enreiching. can accelerate fine when cold just wont idle. if i adjust it to idle while cold, when it warms up it idles way to high . frustrated at this point, can't pinpoint what i'm missing...

You need to adjust the idle mixture screw (air screw) for the highest RPM possible with a warm engine. Then adjust the idle speed until the rear wheel does not spin while on the center stand. That should cure you cold start and cold idle issue caused by your maladjustments.

[dun rite]

Thanks. I'll give it a try and let you know. hadn't even considered that one. have it set at 1 7/8 out per manual bound to need to adj since no longer stock motor.

Ok All adjusted. have it idling at 1900. just have to wait for cool down. probably several hours todays kind of warm out. thanks again ..

[Bear45-70]

Thanks. I'll give it a try and let you know. hadn't even considered that one. have it set at 1 7/8 out per manual bound to need to adj since no longer stock motor.

Ok All adjusted. have it idling at 1900. just have to wait for cool down. probably several hours todays kind of warm out. thanks again ..

The manual is a starting point and not the final place to set the mixture screw.

[dun rite]

Well it finally cooled off, alas didn't seem to help. Have a thought about the by-starter being adjustable. the enrichment hole in the carb is app. 1cm from the base of the carb where the by-starter sits. by screwing in or out the bottom part of the by-starter you could adj. the time in which it takes for the current to heat up the by-starter to fully close off choke. screwing it in lets the needle seat sooner and also closes off the enrichment port. or for longer choke periods do the opposite. unfortunately it didn't solve my problem still doesn't like to idle when cold. Any other possible suggestions?

[mousewheels]

Your thought is interesting, mechanically there is a need to pre-set the correct relationship for the fuel needle and air supply collar.

I have found electrically is that Honda uses different resistance values in series with the bystarter to control how fast and how much the bystarter heats up. It suggests Honda had tuned somewhat the opening speed by controlling heating power into the bystarter.

Back to the mechanical question. I agree there is a correct relationship of how the parts are assembled. Perhaps we can take some cold/warm measurements and determine proper assembly calibration?

[dun rite]

What conclusion I came to was that the bottom of the brass needle holder? should be adj. to match the top of the enrichment hole or possibly a mm higher or so. thats where I set mine. but I live in a fairly warm climate year round. the best measurement for that for the elite s carb was 1 cm to top of hole. so adj bottom of the brass needle holder to where the by-starter seats in the carb to match 1cm. Was just thinking people riding in colder temps may need the choke to stay on for a while longer, not sure just a thought.
I had messed with mine previously thinking it shouldn't be loose like it is and didn't think to pre measure before messing with it so am lost as to what is factory
still trying to get mine to idle while cold at all. driving me nuts.