Replacing Crank Bearings: Down with the Stiffness
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- Pygmaelion
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Replacing Crank Bearings: Down with the Stiffness
A while back I got a salvaged SA50 engine block (94), It had been ridden into oblivion well after it's crank bearings were shot...
I managed to get it all apart, ruining a few parts in the process...
I ended up with two case halves, new bearings, new oil seals, and a new crank.
After lots of cleaning and prep, I managed to get the bearings into the case halves, and the crank in... I can now grab hold of the piston rod, and push the crank around, but it's FAR from loose...
Am I dealing with the factory grease in the bearings? are they all stiff like this, or have I F*ed this thing up in a serious (and expensive) manner?
If It's just "New part stiffness", what's the quickest way to get it over that hump? Can I spray WD40 in there, maybe some 2 stroke oil?
I managed to get it all apart, ruining a few parts in the process...
I ended up with two case halves, new bearings, new oil seals, and a new crank.
After lots of cleaning and prep, I managed to get the bearings into the case halves, and the crank in... I can now grab hold of the piston rod, and push the crank around, but it's FAR from loose...
Am I dealing with the factory grease in the bearings? are they all stiff like this, or have I F*ed this thing up in a serious (and expensive) manner?
If It's just "New part stiffness", what's the quickest way to get it over that hump? Can I spray WD40 in there, maybe some 2 stroke oil?
I'd ask one of the guy from HI about this... doesn't sound right though. Was the crank straight?
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Crank bearings
Did you pre-lube all surfaces with 2 stroke oil?
It should turn smooth with hardly no resistance.
You will get premature wear on new engine parts if you fail this important step.
Let us know please, greg
It should turn smooth with hardly no resistance.
You will get premature wear on new engine parts if you fail this important step.
Let us know please, greg
- Pygmaelion
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Embarrasing Noob Confession.
How I got my engine back together incorrectly...
I had a * of a time getting the case halves apart, and in the process I mashed the threads on the variator side of the crank. This was after I bunged up pulling the variator (smashed the wires with a pulling tool that was supposed to make it come off easy...
300 + bucks of new crank, bearings, seals, variator... I'm not even stroking the GD'd thing
So, with these frog-ups as a starting point, I got it apart , cleaned up each half as much as I could (put 'em through the dishwasher, just to get 'em extra clean)...
I put my new bearings in the freezer... In my tiny reptilian brain, I figured it'd shrink them ever so slightly.
They were stiff and packed with grease when they came out of the bag, so after they came out of the freezer, they were that much more sluggish.
The case halves were warm (expanded) from the dishwasher. I had them all dried out. I was able to set a case half on the countertop, and gently push the freezin' cold bearing in with very little resistance. I tapped 'em down with a rubber mallet, just to make sure they were level in the hole.
I walked away from the project for a week at this point, since I wasn't having much fun with it ( I get frustrated pretty easily). A week later I came back... The crank had been in the freezer for a while (for shrinkage)... I wiped down both case halves again, and put the hondabond on the left side case half. I put the crank post through the bearing on that side, and put the other case half on the other crank post.
At that point I was able to squeeze the halves together, sandwiching the crank in, the bolts went in, and blammo, done...
Of course, it's stiff...
You can tell that this isn't very scientific, and that I'm working with the exact wrong tools. I also didn't lube anything.
I really don't care to spend another several hundred bucks getting it apart, wrecking things, buying specialty tools that take weeks to get here. At least, not right this second. I got this thing in Sept of '05 from a salvage yard in S.C., and got raped on the shipping, and didn't end up with a bill of sale (other'n ebay's confirmations) or a title (once it's sold, who cares about the * who bought it).
I'll see what I can do with it, but just thinking about all that wasted time * me off. There's no way to go in and "check" to see if they're in straight, and there's no way to go in and lube them without taking it all apart.
(Sorry, I warned ya I was easily frustrated)... Anyhow, yeah, that's how it happened...
~Some people are born to be role models... Others are destined to be examples.~
How I got my engine back together incorrectly...
I had a * of a time getting the case halves apart, and in the process I mashed the threads on the variator side of the crank. This was after I bunged up pulling the variator (smashed the wires with a pulling tool that was supposed to make it come off easy...
300 + bucks of new crank, bearings, seals, variator... I'm not even stroking the GD'd thing
So, with these frog-ups as a starting point, I got it apart , cleaned up each half as much as I could (put 'em through the dishwasher, just to get 'em extra clean)...
I put my new bearings in the freezer... In my tiny reptilian brain, I figured it'd shrink them ever so slightly.
They were stiff and packed with grease when they came out of the bag, so after they came out of the freezer, they were that much more sluggish.
The case halves were warm (expanded) from the dishwasher. I had them all dried out. I was able to set a case half on the countertop, and gently push the freezin' cold bearing in with very little resistance. I tapped 'em down with a rubber mallet, just to make sure they were level in the hole.
I walked away from the project for a week at this point, since I wasn't having much fun with it ( I get frustrated pretty easily). A week later I came back... The crank had been in the freezer for a while (for shrinkage)... I wiped down both case halves again, and put the hondabond on the left side case half. I put the crank post through the bearing on that side, and put the other case half on the other crank post.
At that point I was able to squeeze the halves together, sandwiching the crank in, the bolts went in, and blammo, done...
Of course, it's stiff...
You can tell that this isn't very scientific, and that I'm working with the exact wrong tools. I also didn't lube anything.
I really don't care to spend another several hundred bucks getting it apart, wrecking things, buying specialty tools that take weeks to get here. At least, not right this second. I got this thing in Sept of '05 from a salvage yard in S.C., and got raped on the shipping, and didn't end up with a bill of sale (other'n ebay's confirmations) or a title (once it's sold, who cares about the * who bought it).
I'll see what I can do with it, but just thinking about all that wasted time * me off. There's no way to go in and "check" to see if they're in straight, and there's no way to go in and lube them without taking it all apart.
(Sorry, I warned ya I was easily frustrated)... Anyhow, yeah, that's how it happened...
~Some people are born to be role models... Others are destined to be examples.~
- hrnytrtlsgsxr
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- Pygmaelion
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It sounds awesome... and I'd love to take a bow... but the methods detailed above are probably the exact wrong way to do it.
The folks that know how to build engines always assume that the dolt rebuilding the engine has some clue as to lubrication, general practice, and proper use of proper tools.
But it simply isn't true. My experience is... Get it CleanCleanClean. That means no grease, no lube, no nothing... Then lube it later, because if it has enough room to move, it has enough space to let the oil in. Clearly this is wrong. I made the assumption that the parts that touch are machined that tightly so that there'd be no play at operating temperature.
Wrong again.
I learned a lot when my kid brother showed up (he's going to school for automotive tech), and corrected me on a lot of these points... This was after I put the case together. He kinda shook his head at my description of the process... but we were working on my SB50p at the time, not this one...
~sigh~
*... now I've gotta wait until next weekend to start over.
The folks that know how to build engines always assume that the dolt rebuilding the engine has some clue as to lubrication, general practice, and proper use of proper tools.
But it simply isn't true. My experience is... Get it CleanCleanClean. That means no grease, no lube, no nothing... Then lube it later, because if it has enough room to move, it has enough space to let the oil in. Clearly this is wrong. I made the assumption that the parts that touch are machined that tightly so that there'd be no play at operating temperature.
Wrong again.
I learned a lot when my kid brother showed up (he's going to school for automotive tech), and corrected me on a lot of these points... This was after I put the case together. He kinda shook his head at my description of the process... but we were working on my SB50p at the time, not this one...
~sigh~
*... now I've gotta wait until next weekend to start over.