Does the Met stem need to be modified to go into an SE50?

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Does the Met stem need to be modified to go into an SE50?

Post by Meatball »

My Metro donor bike was seized. It took a breaker bar with extension just to get it to spin the crank. Was able to salvage the stem and other odds n ends so Im leaning towards doing a stem swap in the SE50. What process am I looking at with this? Cutting/welding/fabbing?

I see tons of info on met stem swaps on Spree and newer Elites but nothing for the '87. Thx.
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Re: Does the Met stem need to be modified to go into an SE50

Post by Meatball »

I don't suppose theres a write-up on this process floating around somewhere, is there?
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Re: Does the Met stem need to be modified to go into an SE50

Post by Meatball »

http://www.hondaspree.net/phpBB3/viewto ... an#p285498

In this thread, Bones mentions how the Metro stem will fit the se50 with NO modification. If this true, I may be in business! Can I shove disc legs into the Met stem? Sweet!
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Re: Does the Met stem need to be modified to go into an SE50

Post by 1man8scoots »

That's a sb50.
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Re: Does the Met stem need to be modified to go into an SE50

Post by Meatball »

In reference, the G stem is same size as a metropolitan stem, and a dio zx stem, in terms of stem length and width of fork spacing but I believe you could use wheels up to 3" wide with any of these stems. I have also seen the G stem used without mods on an se50.


Above was a quote from Bones on the thread I linked before...If the G stem is the same size as the met, and the G stem is used without modification..then

Im gonna play with it when I have time..will report back. Not saying anyone is wrong, just getting conflicting info.
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Re: Does the Met stem need to be modified to go into an SE50

Post by benji »

I have an 87 elite frame (se50) and the fork is different from the sa50, but I don't know if the metro stem fits. Try it and report back.
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Re: Does the Met stem need to be modified to go into an SE50

Post by Meatball »

OK, guys. All this info is preliminary and the swap has NOT been actually attempted yet. I have opened up the nose on the 87' SE50 and began the recon mission. Keep in mind these numbers are not exact to the nearest millimeter and may be off by a C-hair here and there. Heres what I have found upon taking measurements:

With the tape measure hooked on the lower bearing cup of the Met stem, the threads are between 9 1/2" - 11 1/2" with a stem length of 13 3/8". Complete length from wheel axel to top of stem is 28".

Now onto the SE50 Elite stem measurements. Access to exact numbers here isn't possible without complete removal since its still on the bike and theres obstructions like cables, brackets, etc. Theres also an inner fender plastic that surrounds the lower bearing cup completely but more on that later.....With tape measure hooked on the lower bearing cup (kinda) the "stem nut/washer/jamb nut" assembly sits at about 10 1/2" which is EXACTLY where the threads on the Met stem are! Length to top of stem looks to be 13 3/8" JUST LIKE THE MET STEM!

Overall length of the SE50 stem is difficult to get accurately since the tape measure was bent around a few things and I had to "eyeball" where the top was. From top of stem to wheel axel looks to be roughly 29" which is a mere 1" longer than the Met. Again, that measurement is iffy.
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met stem.JPG
met stem.JPG (122.8 KiB) Viewed 8576 times
Last edited by Meatball on Wed Nov 16, 2016 5:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Does the Met stem need to be modified to go into an SE50

Post by Meatball »

The first pic shows the plastic shroud I mentioned earlier. That will need to be hogged out for sure. The turning stops on the stock stem are small and fit inside the shroud but the stops on the Met stem are large pegs that protrude from the top. See pic.

The other pic shows top view of stock lower bearing cup. Its buried in plastic shroud. Theres a triangle shaped bracket welded to the frame which creates the mount for the nose plastic but inside that triangle, youll see a nub in the middle. That's what the turning stops will make contact with when turning full right/left. Im hoping the met stem pegs and that nub play nicely together.
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met stem2.JPG
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Re: Does the Met stem need to be modified to go into an SE50

Post by Meatball »

So, doing some quick measurements reveals that the Met and SE50 stems have the same numbers as far as stem length and thread location. I will attempt the swap soon as my evening is booked. If I left anything out or want a different measurement, let me know while I have it apart. Off topic: I seriously need to invest in a garage heater.
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Re: Does the Met stem need to be modified to go into an SE50

Post by Meatball »

What are some decent legs that don't break the bank? Or should I stick with the stock met ones?
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Re: Does the Met stem need to be modified to go into an SE50

Post by benji »

Rrgs are popular you might be able to get some cheap
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Re: Does the Met stem need to be modified to go into an SE50

Post by Meatball »

Yeah, Im gonna need new shocks. Looking for a cheap-ish set that will work with the Met drum brake. Also not looking for the "slammed" shocks that lower it any. Got any links to the right ones? Theres too many out there for me to guess.
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Re: Does the Met stem need to be modified to go into an SE50

Post by Meatball »

Wont some Ruck forks fit? I think theyre the same.
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Re: Does the Met stem need to be modified to go into an SE50

Post by Meatball »

I made some progress on the Met tree swap today. I would've gotten more done but I decided to completely tear down the legs and clean/re-grease them before I started. Heres a pic of the test fit.
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Last edited by Meatball on Fri Nov 18, 2016 12:24 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Does the Met stem need to be modified to go into an SE50

Post by Meatball »

Like I mentioned before, the turn stop "nub" had to be modified since the met tree had the tall pegs. If I didn't do this the bars spun all the way around with no stops. That's great for those hairpin turns until your cables get ripped out by turning too far one time.

The "stop tab" had to be bent upward to catch the tall pegs on the met tree or they would go right by with no stops. It also had to be shaved with a grinder on both sides to get the proper turn radius. It was originally way too wide and wouldn't let the bars turn very far.
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met swap2.JPG
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met swap3.JPG
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