Help with Electrical Components

[Meatball]

I wonder if you could install the same flasher relay (#4) used in the rear..installed in the front also. Theoretically, it would still govern the front signals just as the rear relay would but without the annoying beeper....If you have two rear flasher relays (#4) on hand, try it and let us know.

[patthesoundguy]

Save your cash The stock CDI's do not have a rev limiter like others do. That's the only reason I would ever buy a fancy orange one. Your stock CDI is capable of providing all the spark you would ever need for your build.

However, if your stock CDI ever reaches the end of its lifespan and youre forced to buy one, definitely get a Stage6 CDI. Looks like G9 has them on sale for $49 and the OEM unit is on Partzilla is $100! No brainer there. Just stay away from the generic $5 ebay junk "racing" ones. Might as well use a potato.

yes I have tried one if the blue "racing cdi" and a potato would definitely have been a better replacement. No joke. I got it for a lark. It works perfectly on the 4 stroke lifan 125 in the little dune buggy so I think they are for 4 stroke not 2. It wouldn't rev up on the spree or the dio but the dune buggy hauls

[MrJumps]

Those racing cdis off ebay are trash even for a 4stroke people cut them open all the time to find them filled with silicoin beads for weights and too keep the over heating components from get condisation. Many times too the curve is set and wont move depending on whats need for timing. So you may get spark knock using them.

[benji]

My blinkers wont work without the noise contraption, ai never tried to by pass it but simply unplugging it made my blinkers stick. Now I do have a question to add on to this post. What if there is a way to wire up a low resitance led loop to the fuel sender to get a low fuel light? Im willing to buy the parts for it and soilder up a test if someone could point us in the right direction. I know it would involve an led and resistors. Possibly a relay of some sort, I have a base knowledge of eltronics, but if somone could figure the resistance on a gas tank at low for the led to kick on at it would make a perfect substitue to a gas gauge. Maybe even a adjustable unit with an knob to find that sweet spot.

I actually just did this on my prebug. Most of the gas senders I've found are negative signals w ground as full. I have a fuel light from a tng venice, but it's fuel sender worked backwards-it was full ground at EMPTY so the light came on when it was low. I racked my brain for a simple way to fix it, and I figured why not just resend the sender float rod backwards? Worked. I'll post up on my thread what I did, and if it's possible on a honda sender.

[benji]

On the blinker noise thing, I think that might be the flasher relay itself. I think you can go around it by unplugging it and jumping wires.

[benji]

On the cdi thing- anybody ever used an advanced woodruff key? It advances the timing actress the board, not just at full throttle. I was thinking of grabbing one.

[benji]

On the "flasher relay" I think you can unplug it and connect the green/red w the green and it should work.

[R1Titan911]

I agree and think you can loop around the flashy thing. But i kind of like the beep noise haha! I even like the reverse kill switch. Keeps the custom feel

[benji]

Right? I had a truck w no noisy blinker thing, and I was constantly leaving it on.

[R1Titan911]

Can we call the noise beeping flashy relay thing the "NOOB INDICATOR"? ROFL!

[R1Titan911]

So the 87 has a 3 pin and the 84-86 have a 2 pin flasher relay. Is the 3 pin on the 87 only 3 pin because of the noise clicker? Looking to get an LED rear light set up but need to know what kind of flasher relay to get... 2 pin or 3 pin. And when i do, do i just completely replace my relay/noise flasher?

[kjkenney]

So the 87 has a 3 pin and the 84-86 have a 2 pin flasher relay. Is the 3 pin on the 87 only 3 pin because of the noise clicker? Looking to get an LED rear light set up but need to know what kind of flasher relay to get... 2 pin or 3 pin. And when i do, do i just completely replace my relay/noise flasher?

The three pin flasher has one pin for each side, and a third pin being the ground. So the wires should be orange for left side, light blue for right, and green ground. I had a two pin on my Aero, which was black and green. Green to ground, and black to the multi couplers which was tied into the orange and light blue from there, so just one wire activating both sides. So if your wiring is setup for three, methinks you need to stick with it.