Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

Meatball wrote: ↑Sat Sep 08, 2018 7:38 pm Determine what you need, then I will try to provide a source. There isnt ONE place to get everything usually.

Meatball,

My pics won’t upload. Is there another way I could send you a few carb photos?

Look at the small chip on the jet housing

That small chip is not the culprit. If fuel levels in the float bowl ever get low enough (even at wot) for that chip to become an issue than you have issues delivering fuel to the carb...ie: obstruction in the fuel line, clogged in-tank filter, stuck float needle, etc..

Some people swear by a chemical dip for carb cleaning while others say to boil the parts in a bath of magic solution. Im sure both of those methods are effective but Ive always just used a can of Carb Cleaner spray. I pay the extra $2 for a quality name brand like Gum Out.

I disassemble the carb completely, even removing the main jet and emulsion tube. Then I use the straw provided with the spray can and blast every hole. Then I follow it up with blasting compressed air through the holes too. Taking my time like a carb surgeon and being very thorough, the process takes 20-30 min from breakdown to full reassembly.

I used the carb spray all over like you said and pulled most of the components before spraying. When I un-screwed the jet I could not get the emulsion tube out. I saw somewhere about sticking a pencil down the get hole and trying to push it down the tube to loosen it and then let it drop out the top of the jet tube once it loosens but I was afraid I might damage something so I just sprayed real good down that hole and then screwed the jet back in after it all dried up. Since I never had the problem of the scooter staying running do you think I really need to get that emulsion tube out to clean the tube? I'll give it a shot if you think that is critical. The carb looks really good after the spray cleaning.

Also, I forgot to make a mental note. When I disconnected the carb (the opposite end of the carb where the air cleaner box installs) there is a two holed washer type thing that fits over the long two carb mounting screws and I cant remember if the gasket side of that plastic divider goes away from the carb or towards the carb. Note- the carb side of that has a gasket on it so I'm guessing the gasket side of the divider goes away from the carburetor. I hope that makes sense but if not I'll try to put up a picture.

You have been so helpful and I really appreciate it. I am a novice and not mechanically inclined but I'm learning a ton about all this between your help and several Youtube videos.

I just realized in photo showing the floats you can see where the two holes for the carb bolts go and it shows the gasket side of the carb out. I'm thinking the gasket side of the divider would not make sense to connect with the carb side which already has a gasket.

Yes, there should be an o-ring gasket at every connection. You must be talking the end of the carb that attaches to the INTAKE...not the air box.

Keep in mind, that plastic spacer can also be mistakingly installed upside-down! If this mistake is made, the center hole of the plastic spacer would be offset to the carb/intake holes creating a massive restriction in the flow path. I believe theres an arrow on the edge of the spacer that needs to be on TOP!

I would pop that emusion tube out and be sure its clean. The holes in it are extremely tiny and absolutely vital to the proper function of the carb. A single grain of sand can clog one and make your scoot run like garbage. I use a small wood dowel to force it out from the top if its being stubborn. Dont use anything metal since its made of soft material. Re-install same way. Push till it clicks back in. Dont booger up the main jet threads OR over tighten the jet itself. Medium snug is good...dont “gorilla wrist” anything on the carb. Soft brass and aluminum will easily snap.

You are exactly right. It’s the spacer to the intake. So the non gasket side of that spacer should butt up to the carb and the gasket side of the spacer should butt up to the intake connection right?

I did notice it only fits right one direction and thanks for that tip. I’ll try the dowel or pencil trick to get the emulsion tube out and spray with carb spray. Thanks again Meatball. Is there any trick to setting the floats correctly or do I just lock them down with the float screw?

So this weekend I put the carb back together all ready to go, re-connected it and put a little gas in the tank. Did not attempt to start it but gas came flushing out the air vent tube for a few seconds and then it drained out the overflow on the bottom of the carb. I undid the carb bowl and the new floats and needle all looked good. Is it possible I hooked it up wrong? I can take pictures of each connection and each hose if someone will help me be sure I did it right. Due to parts taking forever to arrive it had been more than a month since I disassembled it all so I might have made a mistake. Any help would be awesome.

I am confident in the carb being together correctly but possibly the different hoses are hooked up wrong.

Could someone look at this picture and tell me what goes where?

The vacuum line is for a vacuum actuated fuel petcock

Bones,

Thanks for the pic! So my oil line has a steel tube inside the hose that will not fit over the carb inlet for the oil connection. What would you do with that issue?

Remove the steel tube from the hose. It is most likely a piece that broke off from the previous carb.