85 Spree - no turn signals

[Rideslikenacho]

For the 85 Spree, can someone post a picture of where the actual fuse should be located? I looked at this one I just picked up and could not find one coming off the positive battery wire.

That being said, the tail light works, horn works, but no turn signals or headlight. My understanding is the headlight on these only works while running (still working on getting it running).

[mousewheels]

For the 85 Spree, can someone post a picture of where the actual fuse should be located? I looked at this one I just picked up and could not find one coming off the positive battery wire.

Spree_Fuse_Holder_Location.JPG (150.65 KiB) Viewed 1844 times

[Rideslikenacho]

For the 85 Spree, can someone post a picture of where the actual fuse should be located? I looked at this one I just picked up and could not find one coming off the positive battery wire.

Spree_Fuse_Holder_Location.JPG

Excellent thank you.

So I definitely did not see that when working on it the other day. What type of fuse holder and size will need to be spliced in there? Any idea if this is potentially a cause of no signals?

[mousewheels]

Any idea if this is potentially a cause of no signals?

Since you have horn and tail light working, there should also be +12v available to the flasher.

There's many ways to start troubleshooting, I'd start with easy access stuff
Since you already have the rear plastic off, check for +12v on each side of the flasher. The flasher is on the left side of the battery box.
Check for power (with the turn signal is activated) and ground at the socket.

If it's still not working dive under the headset cover, wiring cover over the leg shield and turn signal switch

--

So I definitely did not see that when working on it the other day. What type of fuse holder and size will need to be spliced in there?

This site has the Honda Spree Service manual at this link viewtopic.php?f=11&t=37
You'll want the wiring diagram and part location info within.

In the SVC Manual Section 15, (Electrical section) the wiring diagram shows a 7amp fuse.
You can use most any inline fuse holder that is rated above 7amps.

[Rideslikenacho]

Thanks I’ll check on this tomorrow and see if that flasher is getting power, if so will do like you said and check the switch. Also going to order a new inline fuse holder and wire that in where it should be. Really hoping the electrical on this hasn’t been messed with to much.

[Rideslikenacho]

@mousewheels - flasher has 12v to it, left and right light up in the rear but no flash. Neither left or right on the front come on or flash. Took the cover off and bulbs out in the front and both sockets have power to them (10.85v) when switch is on.

Could this just be a bad bulb in the front causing a break in the circuit? I put wires from the battery directly to the bulbs and they both lit up. That said, one of them has two connector points on the bottom while the rest just have the one. Given the socket looks like its only for bulbs with one point Im guessing that odd bulb is the issue. Not sure how to embed an image.

[Rideslikenacho]

Update: put new bulbs in front. Right signals now blink on both sides, left rear will come on and not blink, no light on left front. Flasher makes a funny ‘bing’ sound when the left signal switch is turned on. Do they fail on just one side?

Flasher has a grey and black wire to it. Removing one at a time and checking the other side post for 12v only one wire is giving it power.

[mousewheels]

Update: put new bulbs in front. Right signals now blink on both sides, left rear will come on and not blink, no light on left front. Flasher makes a funny ‘bing’ sound when the left signal switch is turned on. Do they fail on just one side?

When there is only 1 of 2 lamps that light up, even a good flasher will not flash.

Trace down why the left front lamp is not turning on, and all should be good.

[Rideslikenacho]

Update.. the ground/circular wire connection on the bolt holding the socket to the light bar on the front left side was rusty and not allowing good ground to happen.

Took two 3’ sections of small gauge wire and connected to each battery post. Disconnected the wires coming from the socket to the connectors under the front panel by the horn. Tested throughput to confirm no breakage. Unscrewed the socket and tested battery wires directly to the socket with the bulb and it lit up. Removed all the rust from the circular connector using 80 grit sandpaper.

Next I took apart the turn signal switch. This is held in by one small screw. Bracket can be slid out of mount to expose the switch. Using a fine tipped flathead screwdriver made for glasses, pried the mounting tabs off both sides of the switch plastic and popped the switch know away from the body. Inside there is a small ‘bb’ shaped ball so if anyone else tries this be sure to do this over a something like a container in case it falls out. This bb should be in the middle groove in the switch body And switch knob in the middle position when putting back together. Using sandpaper, sanded the copper connections on the switch body and rebuild is reverse of removal. All works fine now