NQ-50 spree's carb help

pcs0snq · Post by **pcs0snq** » Sat Jul 26, 2008 1:45 pm

Hi new to the form looking for some carb help

I have two NQ-50's both with issues

One is my normal pit scooter

It has two problems that have slowly become an issue
When it sits, like normal in the trailer for a few weeks, it's hard to start and I have to kick it many times. (like 50 or more) I do not try and keep up with the ele start battery on either unit. When it starts and for the 1st 5 min's, it smokes pretty hard. Blue oil smoke than settles down and works perfect for the balance of the race day. Even starts good after that 1st start project.
What would cause this and what do you recommend I do?

2nd bike is new to me. When I bought it the carb had been left with fuel in it and varnished up. After a fair amount of cleaning I got it to run but not great. It just will not take the gas when I tun the throttle. The main jet is marked 068 on the side.
What size should the hole be if measure in inch like a drill? A .027 drill will fit but not much larger. It looks clean and all.

I have cleaned that gas tank strainer and
changed the spark plug and
fresh fuel.

Also the carb air screw. How is that adjusted?
I was thinking the idle screw just sets the curb idle by limiting the throttle valve.
thanks in advance

Kenny_McCormic · Post by **Kenny_McCormic** » Sat Jul 26, 2008 2:05 pm

68 means .68mm. Airscrew: turn in to richen pilot, out to lean pilot, 1.5 turns out is about right. Try cleaning the carb on the bike that wont run after sitting, also try holing open the throttle when starting. If that doesnt work reach under the panel and hold you hand over the intake holes to manually choke it.

The kickstart is more of a emergency backup, I would recommend you get a battery.

What oil are you running?

pcs0snq · Post by **pcs0snq** » Sat Jul 26, 2008 2:18 pm

Thanks for the advice.

I'll try the WOT for start.

On the battery Does one exist that will last for years in the service I have? My experence with the little lead acid ones is 1 year and they are NFG

I just looked for the oil bottle and can't find it. It was I think Haviland. It was for sure 2 stroke oil abd the color was Blue.

What do you mean by pilot? Is that idle or WOT or???

Kenny_McCormic · Post by **Kenny_McCormic** » Sat Jul 26, 2008 3:34 pm

Pilot is the idle jet, the air screw lets air bypass the carb, just like the idle always puts gas through the carb. I had a $20 diehard vented style that lasted 3 years and was left in -20f conditions with no battery minder every year. This spring I installed a $20 ebay sealed liquid style, holding up well. They all last a long time if your bikes electrical is good, you keep them on a battery maintainer when not in use, and you dont let them freeze(its nearly impossible to freeze a fully charged battery, but the cold lowers the charge).

Only use 2 stroke injection oil, Honda GN2 is the best out there.

pcs0snq · Post by **pcs0snq** » Sat Jul 26, 2008 7:41 pm

Any Chance of an ebay link to the sealed battery you got this spring?
If not maybe the ebay vendor name. I looked and just see ones with slide on tabs???

I'll take the carb of my trusty one and clean it. Other than oil and gas this one sees no maintenance because of low miles at the track.

mousewheels · Post by **mousewheels** » Sat Jul 26, 2008 9:50 pm

---
It has two problems that have slowly become an issue
When it sits, like normal in the trailer for a few weeks, it's hard to start and I have to kick it many times. (like 50 or more) I do not try and keep up with the ele start battery on either unit. When it starts and for the 1st 5 min's, it smokes pretty hard. Blue oil smoke than settles down and works perfect for the balance of the race day. Even starts good after that 1st start project.
---

I've had some oil pumps that leak oil when sitting.

The longer the scooter sits, the more it smokes on startup. Sounds like your problem, runs ok once started for the day, and the residual oil is burnt. When they are really bad, the crankcase can fill up with oil during the winter.

Next time you know your scooter will be sitting for a week or weeks - pull off the oil line at the intake, and put it over a cup. Shouldn't be seeing much accumulation.

Kenny_McCormic · Post by **Kenny_McCormic** » Sat Jul 26, 2008 10:23 pm

mousewheels wrote: Next time you know your scooter will be sitting for a week or weeks - pull off the oil line at the intake, and put it over a cup. Shouldn't be seeing much accumulation.

when they leak in the crank its through the pump drive shaft seal. proper test is pull it off with the bike running, should be 1 drip every 10 seconds or so.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GEL-BATT ... 0252826848
they were $22 with free shipping earlier in the year.

mousewheels · Post by **mousewheels** » Sat Jul 26, 2008 11:14 pm

Thank Kenny - the test suggestion should include the oil pump seal too. The guys here have a good test for the seal

If you pull out the output line and put it over the bucket too, It would test both the shaft seal path and for a leak in the output.

-- From an earlier noiseguy response ---
Pull the oil pump out with the oil lines connected and set it over a bucket overnight. If the bucket has oil in the morning, replace it with a new or good used pump.
_________________
Admin, Hondaspree.net

--- mousewheel's comment ---
There are scooters such as the NN50 and TG50's where the oil pump shaft is outside the crankcase, A leak at the oil pump shaft would only add 2 cycle engine oil to the gearbox oil. Yet we do see oil pump failures that result in smoking on starting and filled crankcases. The only path is the oil pump output to the intake.

Base4life · Post by **Base4life** » Sat Jul 26, 2008 11:30 pm

a posobillaty could be you need a new by starter. its like an electric chock. lol im bad at spelling.

pcs0snq · Post by **pcs0snq** » Sun Jul 27, 2008 8:43 am

Wow Kenny $22 to $43 I'll keep kicking it a few times a month That's way too much $$.

Thanks for the oil line in the bucket test. I'll do that.

Today I'm going to take the newer one carb apart (3rd time) and look for a inner tube insert I read on here that's behind the main jet. I hope to find a tube with holes all clogged up.

I'll also take my pit bike carb off and clean her up and get a new plug.

What's the best place to by the foam air filter insert? I read that's pretty important and I think the new bikes element is missing Not sure what the pit bike one is like but figured a section of foam can't be too bad.

thanks

pcs0snq · Post by **pcs0snq** » Sun Jul 27, 2008 11:19 am

Back in from my adventure. Man it's hot already ... lol

On my track bike the carb inside was not bad but I did not have the foam filter (bad man) and it had a fair amount of road garbage in the venture. I cleaned it out and pulled the main jet tube and cleaned that up. Cleaned the spark plug (carbon build up) and she started well with a little either. I still have the side cover off and did not forces the oil pump hose off but will and see what it does in a week or so. I can say this motivated me to take care of that machine. It's was long over do for the cleaning. Now I need to get that foam element

Ran into some issues on the new one. Only after I took the one above apart did I see how that ele solenoid deal works or at least looks. The brass part is stuck in the carb so I'll have to take it apart for the 4th time and get that out. Is that a common issue? I did get the main jet tube out and it was a mess. Put it back together and it ran perfect. Started it maybe 30min later and it will now take any real throttle. Just bogs like no fuel or too much air. Does that sound like the ele controlled valve? I also damage the small brass tube that is on the bowl side of the ele valve. Stupid using a Phillips to try and drive it up and out. Was not looking and split it maybe 3/8 up in 4 parts. Kind of gathered it together but was not happy about that. As it ran perfect when 1st started and for a few min I'm going to assume that that's not a real issue just looks fugley.

Kenny_McCormic · Post by **Kenny_McCormic** » Sun Jul 27, 2008 12:12 pm

If the bystarter is jammin in the carb somebody used too long of a bolt and crushed that part of the carb. Dremel it out till the by starter brass slides freely, if you make a hole in the process pack that entire cavity of the carb with JB weld and choke it with your fingers.

pcs0snq · Post by **pcs0snq** » Sun Jul 27, 2008 12:24 pm

thanks
Would that Auto Bystarter issue as I described make it do what I mentioned?

I read the servivce manual and ???

Kenny_McCormic · Post by **Kenny_McCormic** » Sun Jul 27, 2008 12:32 pm

pcs0snq wrote:thanks
Would that Auto Bystarter issue as I described make it do what I mentioned?

I read the service manual and ???

It would be like running it choked all the time.

pcs0snq · Post by **pcs0snq** » Sun Jul 27, 2008 12:45 pm

I must have other issues. It does not feel like it hi speed rich. Feels like Hi speed lean. I'm going to try and take it for a ride now and see if it does better on th road as opposed to on the stand...

It's odd (to me) because it worked sop well when cold or at least 1st started.

I wonder if I can make the air filter element out of some HVAC element material? Has to be better than nothing. Is the OEM one look like the dense foam like on a small 4 cycle eng filer. Green foam?