So I got (purchased) this Elite and rebuilt it. After the first start up I realize that I cannot shut it off with the kill switch or key. So my first thought was I hope it isn't stolen.
Anyways, I'm wondering if anyone could explain to me where to start in the process of attempting to get one of the two stopping functions to work. I have never really dabbled into much debt with the wiring on any of these.
Elite will not shut off - key and kill switch not working
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Wheelman-111
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Hot Wired Elite
Greetings:
Hopefully your scooter's not HOT
. It's possible the Previous Owner had a switch problem and chose the easy way out of it. It is possible to bypass both switches somewhere in the circuit.
If you can locate the Service Manual for your model/year, look at the back of the book. There you will find a wiring diagram. Nobody knows less about interpreting these busy diagrams than me, but I do know you can learn the colors of the wires from it. Just follow the lines that lead to your kill switch and you'll see things like "Grn", "Blk" etc. Most of the wires have two colors, the first one is the main color, the second is the stripe on the wire, like "Gry/Y". (Gray/Yellow stripe)
Next I suggest you remove the front cover and look for anything obvious, like a wire nut held on with electrical tape someplace. Removing such jury-rigging should restore one or both of the switches' functions, unless a bad switch was the P.O.'s reason for doing it in the first place.
If you find nothing like that, the chapter on the Electrical System outlines how to test switches. Harbor Freight has two different Multi-Testers for under $5.00. They are absolute crap, - whaddya expect for $2.99? - but good enough to begin sorting things out. My $4.00 one started to smoke -
- the third time I used it! But it was fine for purposes of testing my coil, Bystarter, and battery. Once. There's a $10. one that might be worth getting - no direct experience.
Continutiy is tested using the Ohm scale - think inverted U. The multimeter takes a couple of AAs IIRC, to supply some current. An closed circuit will read the same as touching the red and black probes together. An open one will read the same as baseline. You cna check all your batteries with the DC Volt function - use the lower scales, like 20V for most scooter/toy purposes.
BTW, how are you killing your engine? Just ride until you run out of gas? That'd be my preference!
Happy hunting.
Hopefully your scooter's not HOT
. It's possible the Previous Owner had a switch problem and chose the easy way out of it. It is possible to bypass both switches somewhere in the circuit.If you can locate the Service Manual for your model/year, look at the back of the book. There you will find a wiring diagram. Nobody knows less about interpreting these busy diagrams than me, but I do know you can learn the colors of the wires from it. Just follow the lines that lead to your kill switch and you'll see things like "Grn", "Blk" etc. Most of the wires have two colors, the first one is the main color, the second is the stripe on the wire, like "Gry/Y". (Gray/Yellow stripe)
Next I suggest you remove the front cover and look for anything obvious, like a wire nut held on with electrical tape someplace. Removing such jury-rigging should restore one or both of the switches' functions, unless a bad switch was the P.O.'s reason for doing it in the first place.
If you find nothing like that, the chapter on the Electrical System outlines how to test switches. Harbor Freight has two different Multi-Testers for under $5.00. They are absolute crap, - whaddya expect for $2.99? - but good enough to begin sorting things out. My $4.00 one started to smoke -
- the third time I used it! But it was fine for purposes of testing my coil, Bystarter, and battery. Once. There's a $10. one that might be worth getting - no direct experience.Continutiy is tested using the Ohm scale - think inverted U. The multimeter takes a couple of AAs IIRC, to supply some current. An closed circuit will read the same as touching the red and black probes together. An open one will read the same as baseline. You cna check all your batteries with the DC Volt function - use the lower scales, like 20V for most scooter/toy purposes.
BTW, how are you killing your engine? Just ride until you run out of gas? That'd be my preference!
Happy hunting.Wheelman-111
Most of my money is spent on scooterparts. The rest is just wasted.
"ISO": '03 Vespa ET4 Malossi187 74MPH
Flash 9: 2001 Elite SR Contesta 72 ZX Tran, 9:1 Gears, Stock Airbox/Carb/Pipe 58.8 MPH
Punkin: 2010 Vespa/Malossi S78, 61MPH
Most of my money is spent on scooterparts. The rest is just wasted.
"ISO": '03 Vespa ET4 Malossi187 74MPH
Flash 9: 2001 Elite SR Contesta 72 ZX Tran, 9:1 Gears, Stock Airbox/Carb/Pipe 58.8 MPH
Punkin: 2010 Vespa/Malossi S78, 61MPH
It is a '97 elite S. I have looked under the front cover to examine the key switch and taken the handlebars apart to examine the kill switch. Both look to be proper. Where the wiring harness splits up by the battery is a big mess and that is where I decided to quit. I was going to look at the wiring diagram but lost interest in that as quickly as I would a black and white TV.
Unfortunately (luckily) my throttle cable is a bit sticky and when I release the throttle the slide does not seat down all the way to where I have the idle screw set. So I set the idle too low and when I want to shut it off I actually twist the throttle the wrong way to help the slide go down in the carb and the RPMs die out. I have all winter because I'm not going to ride a fresh top end in the cold air.
Unfortunately (luckily) my throttle cable is a bit sticky and when I release the throttle the slide does not seat down all the way to where I have the idle screw set. So I set the idle too low and when I want to shut it off I actually twist the throttle the wrong way to help the slide go down in the carb and the RPMs die out. I have all winter because I'm not going to ride a fresh top end in the cold air.
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mousewheels
- Veteran OG
- Posts: 3639
- Joined: Tue May 22, 2007 8:10 pm
- Location: North of Seattle, WA
The engine stop switch and kill switch are both 'open' in the run position.
In the 'off' position, either one will short a line running back to the CDI to ground. That kills the spark, and the engine very promptly stops.
Wire color codes between Honda scooters is pretty consistent. Check the Black/White stripe wire at the CDI with your multimeter to ground. If the engine stop switch or ignition switch do not short this line to gnd when in the 'off' position, follow back up through the switches.
P.S. I have one of those under $5 Harbor Freight multimeters too. Saves the good one from pulling garage duty. Works great, but gee, there's no battery cover! Molded in is a warning there are no operator serviceable parts inside. But pull off the screws, and there's a std 9v battery inside!
In the 'off' position, either one will short a line running back to the CDI to ground. That kills the spark, and the engine very promptly stops.
Wire color codes between Honda scooters is pretty consistent. Check the Black/White stripe wire at the CDI with your multimeter to ground. If the engine stop switch or ignition switch do not short this line to gnd when in the 'off' position, follow back up through the switches.
P.S. I have one of those under $5 Harbor Freight multimeters too. Saves the good one from pulling garage duty. Works great, but gee, there's no battery cover! Molded in is a warning there are no operator serviceable parts inside. But pull off the screws, and there's a std 9v battery inside!