Hello Everyone,
I have a 1986 NQ 50. I recently cleaned the carb, replaced the old air filter and the air filter housing and lid (brand new). I also replaced the old electric choke with a brand new one. A new Spark Plug as well. I am still getting to much gas. I have to leave the lid on teh air filter cracked a bit in order for the Spree to run like it should. Any suggestions? Is it something in the carb. I've adjusted the air flow screw about every way possible. Thank you.
swf
Any Suggestions?
Moderator: Moderator
I would just keep the top cracked, and adjust the air screw out alot. It might be the adjustment on your throttle needle... i dont know much about that. So Jerry, when you see this, tell him how to make sure his needle is seated correctly, thanks 
86 Honda Spree - Lawn Ornament
83 Suzuki GS450E - Sold
92 Honda CBR600 F2 - Current Daily driver
Spree Repair Guide
83 Suzuki GS450E - Sold
92 Honda CBR600 F2 - Current Daily driver
Spree Repair Guide
Carb
I have a 1986 NQ 50. I recently cleaned the carb, replaced the old air filter and the air filter housing and lid (brand new). I also replaced the old electric choke with a brand new one. A new Spark Plug as well. I am still getting to much gas. I have to leave the lid on teh air filter cracked a bit in order for the Spree to run like it should. Any suggestions? Is it something in the carb. I've adjusted the air flow screw about every way possible. Thank you.
swf
To start with, let's break this down in a step by step procedure.
1. You don't say if the carb was good before cleaning, just that you cleaned it. If it was running rich before, and you cleaned it then it didn't solve the earlier problem. If it was running good before, that means you created a problem.
2. You replaced the air filter and housing. Why? Is this a bike you just got and started working on that was incomplete or in pieces?
3. You replaced the choke with a new one? Was the old one missing? Did you get an incomplete carb and have to buy a new choke assembly or what? Did you have an old one that tested bad?
Let's discuss why this is important to know. If you're starting with an unknown motor and adding new components it is NOT the same thing as taking all new parts from the factory and assembling them.
Several things everyone has to keep in mind. When you say NEW are you referring new from the Honda dealer or new to you? New as in you just got them from a seller on eBay? It's important to note the differences.
Let's take the worst case here and go with an unknown motor and you just got a carb off eBay and you you also got a choke and air housing/filter/cover from your unscrupulous neighbor. You're trying to assemble questionable parts and wondering why it isn't working correctly.
There are several hundred scenarios that we could place here, but the bottom line is that your bike is running rich....I'm assuming that you know rich from lean by the symptoms as stated in the tech section....If you are in fact running rich, there are two basic causes. Not enough air or too much gas. (Yes, there is a difference). If the filter housing and lid came from another NQ-50, there should be no problem as long as there are no cracks or missing pieces. The filter itself, however, should be new as in new from the dealer. That erases any doubt.
When you accomplish that much, you are leaving the other portion of the possibility that says you're getting too much gas. There, we have a number of possibilities. Check the float level to start with. Make sure the needle valve and float are shutting off fuel as designed. Make sure the choke is expanding in the casing and dropping the needle down far enough to completely shut off fuel when it warms up. When you have those two questions answered, then the only thing left is the idle jet has been enlarged. The throttle cable and needle couldn't cause this problem because that would narrow it to an acceleration problem only. Not running rich.
I hate to tell you what my guess is, but, I'm guessing that someone has poked a pin or wire or similar object into the idle port and enlarged the hole. If that's true, there is no fix, the carb is toast.
Tell me more on the true details of the bike and if my scenario is wrong, we'll get to the bottom of this and get you going.....
swf
To start with, let's break this down in a step by step procedure.
1. You don't say if the carb was good before cleaning, just that you cleaned it. If it was running rich before, and you cleaned it then it didn't solve the earlier problem. If it was running good before, that means you created a problem.
2. You replaced the air filter and housing. Why? Is this a bike you just got and started working on that was incomplete or in pieces?
3. You replaced the choke with a new one? Was the old one missing? Did you get an incomplete carb and have to buy a new choke assembly or what? Did you have an old one that tested bad?
Let's discuss why this is important to know. If you're starting with an unknown motor and adding new components it is NOT the same thing as taking all new parts from the factory and assembling them.
Several things everyone has to keep in mind. When you say NEW are you referring new from the Honda dealer or new to you? New as in you just got them from a seller on eBay? It's important to note the differences.
Let's take the worst case here and go with an unknown motor and you just got a carb off eBay and you you also got a choke and air housing/filter/cover from your unscrupulous neighbor. You're trying to assemble questionable parts and wondering why it isn't working correctly.
There are several hundred scenarios that we could place here, but the bottom line is that your bike is running rich....I'm assuming that you know rich from lean by the symptoms as stated in the tech section....If you are in fact running rich, there are two basic causes. Not enough air or too much gas. (Yes, there is a difference). If the filter housing and lid came from another NQ-50, there should be no problem as long as there are no cracks or missing pieces. The filter itself, however, should be new as in new from the dealer. That erases any doubt.
When you accomplish that much, you are leaving the other portion of the possibility that says you're getting too much gas. There, we have a number of possibilities. Check the float level to start with. Make sure the needle valve and float are shutting off fuel as designed. Make sure the choke is expanding in the casing and dropping the needle down far enough to completely shut off fuel when it warms up. When you have those two questions answered, then the only thing left is the idle jet has been enlarged. The throttle cable and needle couldn't cause this problem because that would narrow it to an acceleration problem only. Not running rich.
I hate to tell you what my guess is, but, I'm guessing that someone has poked a pin or wire or similar object into the idle port and enlarged the hole. If that's true, there is no fix, the carb is toast.
Tell me more on the true details of the bike and if my scenario is wrong, we'll get to the bottom of this and get you going.....
Scoot safely
Hello Jerry,
Sorry about the lack of detail.
I bought the Spree used and pretty beat up. It was in-expensive but not running very well. It was running lean. Lots of smoke and no idle.
I adjusted the air flow screw but it didn't help. I pulled apart the carb and cleaned it and inspected it. It looked really good. I put it back togther but it was still lean.
The air filter and air filter lid were missing. The air filter/rear fender was also cracked. (i guessed this might be the running lean problem) I bought the air filter, lid, and rear fender/air filter assembly brand new from the dealer. Now it will barely run.
Next I pulled out the electric choke. It ran better without it so I purchased a brand new electric choke from the dealer. After I installed the new electric choke it even ran better and would finally idle, but was fowling the plug. (running rich) I pulled the plug and it was soaked with gas. I disconnected the fuel lines and the Spree would eventually run great as the gas was used up. I pulled the air screw all the way out. Still to much gas. So I cracked open the lid on the air filter and it made a huge improvement. It wasn't bogging at higher RPMs and was less rich. This is what led me to believe that there is something inside the carb that needs adjustment.
If I had to guess (which I am) I'd say the float. I actually ordered a brand new float from the dealer the same day I ordered the choke. It was only $13. What the hay. I think my main promblem is I don't know enough about adjusting the float.
It is a lot better than it was. I am at least riding it now. But I would love to get it to run as good as possible. I would appreciate any help. Thank you. swf
Sorry about the lack of detail.
I bought the Spree used and pretty beat up. It was in-expensive but not running very well. It was running lean. Lots of smoke and no idle.
I adjusted the air flow screw but it didn't help. I pulled apart the carb and cleaned it and inspected it. It looked really good. I put it back togther but it was still lean.
The air filter and air filter lid were missing. The air filter/rear fender was also cracked. (i guessed this might be the running lean problem) I bought the air filter, lid, and rear fender/air filter assembly brand new from the dealer. Now it will barely run.
Next I pulled out the electric choke. It ran better without it so I purchased a brand new electric choke from the dealer. After I installed the new electric choke it even ran better and would finally idle, but was fowling the plug. (running rich) I pulled the plug and it was soaked with gas. I disconnected the fuel lines and the Spree would eventually run great as the gas was used up. I pulled the air screw all the way out. Still to much gas. So I cracked open the lid on the air filter and it made a huge improvement. It wasn't bogging at higher RPMs and was less rich. This is what led me to believe that there is something inside the carb that needs adjustment.
If I had to guess (which I am) I'd say the float. I actually ordered a brand new float from the dealer the same day I ordered the choke. It was only $13. What the hay. I think my main promblem is I don't know enough about adjusting the float.
It is a lot better than it was. I am at least riding it now. But I would love to get it to run as good as possible. I would appreciate any help. Thank you. swf
Rich or lean?
You're confusing me here. Your statement is:
I bought the Spree used and pretty beat up. It was in-expensive but not running very well. It was running lean. Lots of smoke and no idle.
Lean? Lots of smoke and no idle? You're confusing the rich/lean scenario.
I adjusted the air flow screw but it didn't help.
It wouldn't in this case
I pulled apart the carb and cleaned it and inspected it. It looked really good. I put it back togther but it was still lean. The air filter and air filter lid were missing. The air filter/rear fender was also cracked. (i guessed this might be the running lean problem) I bought the air filter, lid, and rear fender/air filter assembly brand new from the dealer. Now it will barely run. Next I pulled out the electric choke. It ran better without it so I purchased a brand new electric choke from the dealer. After I installed the new electric choke it even ran better and would finally idle, but was fowling the plug. (running rich) I pulled the plug and it was soaked with gas. I disconnected the fuel lines and the Spree would eventually run great as the gas was used up. I pulled the air screw all the way out. Still to much gas. So I cracked open the lid on the air filter and it made a huge improvement. It wasn't bogging at higher RPMs and was less rich. This is what led me to believe that there is something inside the carb that needs adjustment. If I had to guess (which I am) I'd say the float. I actually ordered a brand new float from the dealer the same day I ordered the choke. It was only $13. What the hay. I think my main promblem is I don't know enough about adjusting the float. It is a lot better than it was. I am at least riding it now. But I would love to get it to run as good as possible. I would appreciate any help. Thank you. swf
To adjust the float, take off the bowl and turn the carb upside down. The float should be level with the surface of the carb body. Put the hinge part of the float to your right. (Save me confusion explaining). If the left side is lower than the right, you're running rich. If the left side is higher than the right, you're running lean. The float is plastic, but maleable with a little pressure. Bend the tang that attaches the needle valve either direction until it's level. You have to do this with a brand new one also FYI.
Check the size of the main jet. It should be #65. Back it out with a straight slot and look carefully at the side. It will be stamped into the brass. A lot of people have put bigger jets in thinking that will give more power. It just won't work, trust me.
A lot of people are confused about the air screw (as you are). The air screw is adjusting the amount of air passing through the venturi of the idle circuit. The more air you give it, the MORE gas you're allowing to flow from the idle jet. You're trying to do just the opposite in this case, which is lean it out. You should be turning it in if anything. Start by turning it in gently to the stop. Back it out 1 7/8 turn. Make sure the bike is WARMED before adjusting. Turn in either direction but never more than a quarter turn from the 1 7/8 point. Turn until you get the highest idle possible. Make sure the bike is on the kickstand before adjusting. When you have reached the highest idle you can, adjust the idle speed screw until the rear wheel doesn't turn with the engine running. That should put you close to the 1800 RPM mark.
I bought the Spree used and pretty beat up. It was in-expensive but not running very well. It was running lean. Lots of smoke and no idle.
Lean? Lots of smoke and no idle? You're confusing the rich/lean scenario.
I adjusted the air flow screw but it didn't help.
It wouldn't in this case
I pulled apart the carb and cleaned it and inspected it. It looked really good. I put it back togther but it was still lean. The air filter and air filter lid were missing. The air filter/rear fender was also cracked. (i guessed this might be the running lean problem) I bought the air filter, lid, and rear fender/air filter assembly brand new from the dealer. Now it will barely run. Next I pulled out the electric choke. It ran better without it so I purchased a brand new electric choke from the dealer. After I installed the new electric choke it even ran better and would finally idle, but was fowling the plug. (running rich) I pulled the plug and it was soaked with gas. I disconnected the fuel lines and the Spree would eventually run great as the gas was used up. I pulled the air screw all the way out. Still to much gas. So I cracked open the lid on the air filter and it made a huge improvement. It wasn't bogging at higher RPMs and was less rich. This is what led me to believe that there is something inside the carb that needs adjustment. If I had to guess (which I am) I'd say the float. I actually ordered a brand new float from the dealer the same day I ordered the choke. It was only $13. What the hay. I think my main promblem is I don't know enough about adjusting the float. It is a lot better than it was. I am at least riding it now. But I would love to get it to run as good as possible. I would appreciate any help. Thank you. swf
To adjust the float, take off the bowl and turn the carb upside down. The float should be level with the surface of the carb body. Put the hinge part of the float to your right. (Save me confusion explaining). If the left side is lower than the right, you're running rich. If the left side is higher than the right, you're running lean. The float is plastic, but maleable with a little pressure. Bend the tang that attaches the needle valve either direction until it's level. You have to do this with a brand new one also FYI.
Check the size of the main jet. It should be #65. Back it out with a straight slot and look carefully at the side. It will be stamped into the brass. A lot of people have put bigger jets in thinking that will give more power. It just won't work, trust me.
A lot of people are confused about the air screw (as you are). The air screw is adjusting the amount of air passing through the venturi of the idle circuit. The more air you give it, the MORE gas you're allowing to flow from the idle jet. You're trying to do just the opposite in this case, which is lean it out. You should be turning it in if anything. Start by turning it in gently to the stop. Back it out 1 7/8 turn. Make sure the bike is WARMED before adjusting. Turn in either direction but never more than a quarter turn from the 1 7/8 point. Turn until you get the highest idle possible. Make sure the bike is on the kickstand before adjusting. When you have reached the highest idle you can, adjust the idle speed screw until the rear wheel doesn't turn with the engine running. That should put you close to the 1800 RPM mark.
Scoot safely
Hello Jerry,
Thanks. Sorry about the mix up. I thought lots of white smoke meant to much air and lots of black smoke meant to little air. I thought lean meant not enough gas and rich meant to much gas. I'll re-adjust the air screw and idle and I'll adjust the float. Thanks a lot for your help. I'll get back in the next couple days to give an update. swf
Thanks. Sorry about the mix up. I thought lots of white smoke meant to much air and lots of black smoke meant to little air. I thought lean meant not enough gas and rich meant to much gas. I'll re-adjust the air screw and idle and I'll adjust the float. Thanks a lot for your help. I'll get back in the next couple days to give an update. swf