have you ever tried a 92 or 95 main?? your bout sea level there i assume?? and how is the plug color?itzmepete wrote:I pulled the fuel filter and its clean, fuel is clean in carb. I drilled the jet out and it ran like crap, so I got my new unused jet and redrilled it again to 1mm using a different bit which seemed a hair larger. Runs very strong and hard again but after say 1/2 to 3/4 mile same thing so, if I have a air leak, I think the reed gasket or the two O rings in the manifold. The head gasket on the polini is an O ring and if that went I would think it would run like crap all the time plus I haven't dogged it that much. So, I never installed the Polini reed , I have the reed and new gaskets but didn't want to use it as ran fine with old reed and its not like the engine is rev'in faster than stock. I could change the two intake O rings, they could leak I guess. I don't know anything about the clip in the needle, gonna go look in the manual.
I personally think the stock carb is at its limit with the Corsa air demand. Larger drilling affect low end. I could go back to stock airbox and it will improve but my top end will suffer or leave it as is, do 50/54 mph just where the needle will start to dissappear and know if I do WOT I can only do so for a short burst. Either that OR go with bigger carb, delete oil pump and mix fuel. I think when I redo my muffler, I will have more issues with the stock carb , then be forced to go to a bigger carb anyway, and if I have the R! I will have a crappy muffler to go with the bigger carb so, When I go with the muffler, probably go with PG short or long as both will work, and if my carb issue gets worse, I have no choice but to go with a new carb. I honestly think the small carb just can't handle the cylinders air draw. I will get a new airbox and see how that works as well as check that clip ur talking about as I think I saw something about that but not sure.
I just took a look at the needle. I've never taken it apart, the retainer was kinda strange the way it holds the needle. Anyway, your right, book says the clip goes on slot 2, didn't say 2nd from bottom up but it was 3 rd from bottom up and there was 2 maybe 3 above the clip so it wasn't in the right place. Anyway, I moved the clip to the very bottom, this will raise the needle so when I go WOT, the needles tapered end is off the seat or at least the thinner tapered end is up more letting more fuel flow. I went to ride it but its drizzleing in Fl now, kinda cold and the thought of doing 55 on a slightly wet street scares the heck outta me! Anyhow, enough for a day. I think if I had a few jets, more precise drill bits I'd get it close but not perfect but close enough. The bit I used earlier to enlarge the #100 was alot bigger, I don't have my mic but I'd say it was at least 30% bigger and was obviously too big. I think I am close, but still think the carb is just too small. Maybe with this new needle adjustment and the stock airbox cover I should be ok, but just think this cylinder with stock carb is a 55 mph bike with a 60 short burst , which I could live with.
I just got my hands on a jewlers drill bit set on ebay $8 total with S/H, drill bits # 60, #59,#58,#57,#56 and #55.
#61 being a #100 or .99, I have this bit already its the others I don't. The next size I have jumps like 7 sizes up and was too much. The kit includes a #60 a 1.016, #59 a 1.041, a #58 1.067 and #57 1.092 and so on up to 1.145 bout 15 points up from a #100. My stock jet was a 78 or .78 mm, I jumped to a .99 , 21 points and its still not enough. So when I get a new jet, I will waste one more jet in the name of science doing one size at a time to see if I can hit the right size. Maybe I can adjust the needle pin to fine tune but I am not really optomistic about this stock carb, lol.
When I am done, I will probably change the title of this thread to redoing a stock SR50!
Preformance Speed Variator is BS on Elite SR50
Moderator: Moderator
I just rode it, late tonight after redoing the needle clip. It ride so much better but after a mile and a half if starts to lean out, but much farther than before, I almost thought I had it licked. So, I will wait till I get my new drill bits, go one up at a time and see. If I go too far I can always go down on the neddle with the jet. Right now I can live iwth it, just gotta know that WOT is a mint at most, which is 59+ mph.
I am leaving Fl end of week, i should get my new drill bits in 2 weeks since the move and then I will repost my test results!
Petet
I am leaving Fl end of week, i should get my new drill bits in 2 weeks since the move and then I will repost my test results!
Petet
[quote="itzmepete"]I just rode it, late tonight after redoing the needle clip. It ride so much better but after a mile and a half if starts to lean out, but much farther than before, I almost thought I had it licked. So, I will wait till I get my new drill bits, go one up at a time and see. If I go too far I can always go down on the neddle with the jet. Right now I can live iwth it, just gotta know that WOT is a mint at most, which is 59+ mph.
I am leaving Fl end of week, i should get my new drill bits in 2 weeks since the move and then I will repost my test results!
Petet[/quote
you could try the needle in the middle position.in reality i am not sure where your at in regards to sea level but i feel if your at 95 main jet thats a great plenty of fuel.. if your where there is a lot of humidity you need the 92 jet and no oil in the gas to lean it out.. should be all you need. good luck.
I am leaving Fl end of week, i should get my new drill bits in 2 weeks since the move and then I will repost my test results!
Petet[/quote
you could try the needle in the middle position.in reality i am not sure where your at in regards to sea level but i feel if your at 95 main jet thats a great plenty of fuel.. if your where there is a lot of humidity you need the 92 jet and no oil in the gas to lean it out.. should be all you need. good luck.
it was in the middle position before which gave me more problems. I moved the clip all the way down which raised the needle higher in the seat, the tapered end moves up letting more fuel flow. i rode it quite a ways before it started to lean again. I am very close to it. I now it needs more fuel. I checked the in jector pump an its pumps oils so thats good.
I'll try one size up when I get my drill bits, it should improve and if it does, then I can slowly lower the needle again one adjustment at a time.
I'll try one size up when I get my drill bits, it should improve and if it does, then I can slowly lower the needle again one adjustment at a time.
what you need is a larger bowl on the carb, and a bigger fuel line!! a little larger fuel line would help get fuel to the carb.. also the needle has nothing to do with the wot position unless the cable is not adjusted correct.. the last 1/8 of the throttle is all main jet. if not its not adjusted correct. you can look in the carb to see if the slide is all the way up a full throttle too. we have to remember its a very small carb and, you may have reached the max of what it can put out.. although a pipe i feel will help a bit everywhere. but you will not beablel to run wot . as i stated you may pick up a littel if you go to a slightly larger fuel line.. it don't take much to make a differance . for a few pennies you can try it.. if your running the bowl empty your leaning that nice new motor out a lot and that could get ugly on a 100 degree day , once again good luckitzmepete wrote:it was in the middle position before which gave me more problems. I moved the clip all the way down which raised the needle higher in the seat, the tapered end moves up letting more fuel flow. i rode it quite a ways before it started to lean again. I am very close to it. I now it needs more fuel. I checked the in jector pump an its pumps oils so thats good.
I'll try one size up when I get my drill bits, it should improve and if it does, then I can slowly lower the needle again one adjustment at a time.
There is no way that bowl is running dry, that means my scooter would run 30 minutes before the tank went dry! Same goes with the fuel line, if you remove it from the carb, the tank would run dry in 15 minutes, apply vauum to the valve to keep it open of course. I KNOW its a combination of the jet and needle. The slide opens fully at WOT, remember I rigged it to be full open with the oil pump at max.
I know its the jet and needle as when I drilled out the old jet too big, it ran so rich that I barely got to 45 mph and obviously it did not lean out. I also know that when I raised the needle it improved alot more. When the slide goes up, so does the needle and the fuel passes thru the jet and past the needle into the carb. The slide just increases the openeing to suck more fuel and air in via the needle tube. You can also replace the needle with a thinner one that will also allow more fuel to pass around it. I believe if I am not mistaken the tapered end of the needle goes up out of the tube that the needle slides in, the higher up, the lmore tapered and the more fuel flows. The needle also helps atomize the fuel into the air . They sell combo needle/jet kits for other carbs. The problem is if I redo my jet till I correct the high end lean out, will the low end suffer. I think it may work if I get the right size drill bit. I ordered a set of bits numbers #60, #59,#58,#57,#56 and #55. Right now the jet is at #61, next size up is #60 I will try that one and see the results and if it improves but still leans I will go one more until it stops leaning at WOT.Once it stops leaning, I may go one more size up to make sure it won't lean on a hot summer day. If I go too much I will just redrill another jet to the last size. If my low end suffers, I can compensate with the needle as I have 5 open slots for the clip above me now.
I know its the jet and needle as when I drilled out the old jet too big, it ran so rich that I barely got to 45 mph and obviously it did not lean out. I also know that when I raised the needle it improved alot more. When the slide goes up, so does the needle and the fuel passes thru the jet and past the needle into the carb. The slide just increases the openeing to suck more fuel and air in via the needle tube. You can also replace the needle with a thinner one that will also allow more fuel to pass around it. I believe if I am not mistaken the tapered end of the needle goes up out of the tube that the needle slides in, the higher up, the lmore tapered and the more fuel flows. The needle also helps atomize the fuel into the air . They sell combo needle/jet kits for other carbs. The problem is if I redo my jet till I correct the high end lean out, will the low end suffer. I think it may work if I get the right size drill bit. I ordered a set of bits numbers #60, #59,#58,#57,#56 and #55. Right now the jet is at #61, next size up is #60 I will try that one and see the results and if it improves but still leans I will go one more until it stops leaning at WOT.Once it stops leaning, I may go one more size up to make sure it won't lean on a hot summer day. If I go too much I will just redrill another jet to the last size. If my low end suffers, I can compensate with the needle as I have 5 open slots for the clip above me now.
ya the needle will make a lot of differance on the low and mid range . hope ya get it it worked out on the top enditzmepete wrote:There is no way that bowl is running dry, that means my scooter would run 30 minutes before the tank went dry! Same goes with the fuel line, if you remove it from the carb, the tank would run dry in 15 minutes, apply vauum to the valve to keep it open of course. I KNOW its a combination of the jet and needle. The slide opens fully at WOT, remember I rigged it to be full open with the oil pump at max.
I know its the jet and needle as when I drilled out the old jet too big, it ran so rich that I barely got to 45 mph and obviously it did not lean out. I also know that when I raised the needle it improved alot more. When the slide goes up, so does the needle and the fuel passes thru the jet and past the needle into the carb. The slide just increases the openeing to suck more fuel and air in via the needle tube. You can also replace the needle with a thinner one that will also allow more fuel to pass around it. I believe if I am not mistaken the tapered end of the needle goes up out of the tube that the needle slides in, the higher up, the lmore tapered and the more fuel flows. The needle also helps atomize the fuel into the air . They sell combo needle/jet kits for other carbs. The problem is if I redo my jet till I correct the high end lean out, will the low end suffer. I think it may work if I get the right size drill bit. I ordered a set of bits numbers #60, #59,#58,#57,#56 and #55. Right now the jet is at #61, next size up is #60 I will try that one and see the results and if it improves but still leans I will go one more until it stops leaning at WOT.Once it stops leaning, I may go one more size up to make sure it won't lean on a hot summer day. If I go too much I will just redrill another jet to the last size. If my low end suffers, I can compensate with the needle as I have 5 open slots for the clip above me now.
Well, I will say this, I got my new (used) tank in. The outside looked ok, my paint was shinier but the inside was mint condition and I got it in two days for $28.49 can't beat that. Also, Permatex tank repair, if done right is some serious stuff, a clean sanded area and that stuff stick great and seals tough. Temp repair yes, permanent probably, looks good no! Ok, popped in the tank I knew I still had problems. I tried everything from moving the clip on the needle up and down. Basically everything, all I knew is WOT is too lean, I need a new needle, I think the jet is fine, its the tapered end of the needle at WOT that is still too thick. I was gonna take light sandpaper to the tapered end. Then said let me look at everything again. This problem all started when I did my oil consumption deal. I thought the engine wasn't getting enought oil with the injector pump so I added oil into the fuel and changed the plug to a hotter plug. Now I also ran the engine with some fuel that already had 30 to 1 oil in it and it ran like crap. So, I added clean no oil fuel, ran it still had problems. I noticed the carbs needle every time I pulled it , it had 2 stroke oil on it, the engine is getting oil. I unscrewed the needle cap a turn or two loose in order to raise the needle higher to a less tapered end and allow more fuel at WOT and it again worked BUT my low end suffered alot, almost unbearable, so that was not a solution. Same as moving the needle's clip up would make the engine lean out much quicker on WOT, moving the clip down would make the engine run much longer on WOT before leaning out BUT it would make starting out from a standstill as in on a red light much slower, the engine would shrug for 5 to 8 seconds till the extra fuel burned off, I got honked at once ! So I knew this was not the solution, I can't give one up for the other. So I set the needle one spot lower than where it was supposed to be, or once slot richer. Take off was still very good, just a 1 maybe maybe 2 second delay, like before I had any problems then slingshot off. If I moved it one up I'd have instant response but Top end would lean out much quicker.
Then I thought all this fuel and oil must have shot my plug by now so I pulled it. I looked at it and what I saw surprsed me. The tip looked melted! I pulled the new NGK 8 plug out, said its time and popped it in. Although in all fairness i did have the Champion equvalant to the NGK 8 plug in before all thyese WOT leaning isses. Ok, So I slapped in the new NGK 8 plug and went for a test ride. I can now go like 4 miles WOT before I see any hesitation. Its like it was before. Before these problems. I never rode it WOT for more than 20 seconds while breaking it in. I rode it as I did while break in and it was same, SO, it was my plug and me adding too much oil! In a full tank, I would add no more than 1 ounce during break in, thats what I was doing a Nyquil cup! After breakin nothing and stick with the NGK 8 plug, I was wrong! Now, when I get my drill bit set, and extra jets, I will check to see what I have now. If I am at a #100 jet I may try a size up or two up, might as well. A jet only costs $5, if it doesn't work, then I know I need a new needle for my stock jet OR a new Carb as the stock is maxed out. If I need a new carb, I will go with a pipe muffler , might as well, all or nothing. My scooter has about 400 miles on the new Polini BB, if it wanted to seize it would have done so by now.
So, I will hold off, I can ride it all day so long as I see the needle on the cluster, 50/55 mph, but if its buried, I have a few miles no more. Let off on it a bit and its back. If I slap a muffler on it, R1 or anything, I am sure I will lean it out WOT for sure, The Corsa just pulls too much IMHO
More to come, but now I am off to Oklahoma. Oh as for the airbox redoing, yeah I opened up mine up alot but if you leave it as is, you'll still get WOT lean outs, and preformance will suffer. I used some foam to block it off and make sure It wasn't the cover redo. Its better as I have it RIGHT NOW. Unless someone else has a Corsa on an stock eliete and has it running right and if so, share the knowledge, I am all ears!
Peter
Then I thought all this fuel and oil must have shot my plug by now so I pulled it. I looked at it and what I saw surprsed me. The tip looked melted! I pulled the new NGK 8 plug out, said its time and popped it in. Although in all fairness i did have the Champion equvalant to the NGK 8 plug in before all thyese WOT leaning isses. Ok, So I slapped in the new NGK 8 plug and went for a test ride. I can now go like 4 miles WOT before I see any hesitation. Its like it was before. Before these problems. I never rode it WOT for more than 20 seconds while breaking it in. I rode it as I did while break in and it was same, SO, it was my plug and me adding too much oil! In a full tank, I would add no more than 1 ounce during break in, thats what I was doing a Nyquil cup! After breakin nothing and stick with the NGK 8 plug, I was wrong! Now, when I get my drill bit set, and extra jets, I will check to see what I have now. If I am at a #100 jet I may try a size up or two up, might as well. A jet only costs $5, if it doesn't work, then I know I need a new needle for my stock jet OR a new Carb as the stock is maxed out. If I need a new carb, I will go with a pipe muffler , might as well, all or nothing. My scooter has about 400 miles on the new Polini BB, if it wanted to seize it would have done so by now.
So, I will hold off, I can ride it all day so long as I see the needle on the cluster, 50/55 mph, but if its buried, I have a few miles no more. Let off on it a bit and its back. If I slap a muffler on it, R1 or anything, I am sure I will lean it out WOT for sure, The Corsa just pulls too much IMHO
More to come, but now I am off to Oklahoma. Oh as for the airbox redoing, yeah I opened up mine up alot but if you leave it as is, you'll still get WOT lean outs, and preformance will suffer. I used some foam to block it off and make sure It wasn't the cover redo. Its better as I have it RIGHT NOW. Unless someone else has a Corsa on an stock eliete and has it running right and if so, share the knowledge, I am all ears!
Peter
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stillspeeding
- Spree
- Posts: 279
- Joined: Fri May 04, 2007 3:50 am
- Location: u.s.a
really don't see the need for the oil mix at all.. it leans the the motor out unles you really run huge unnecessary jets. i think ya need go the the local lawnmore ashop and replace all fuel lines.. and vaccume lines and make sure they are all the way on and secure.. also make sure the needle and seat are not somehow messed up or dirty too.. as stillspeed stated also make sure the ramps and pins are in good shape and lubed a little too. also the bearings inside. you need to run no larger than a 95 main. the 92 wojuld proly be fine if your in the hot humid area. the bike will haul the mail then...itzmepete wrote:Well, I will say this, I got my new (used) tank in. The outside looked ok, my paint was shinier but the inside was mint condition and I got it in two days for $28.49 can't beat that. Also, Permatex tank repair, if done right is some serious stuff, a clean sanded area and that stuff stick great and seals tough. Temp repair yes, permanent probably, looks good no! Ok, popped in the tank I knew I still had problems. I tried everything from moving the clip on the needle up and down. Basically everything, all I knew is WOT is too lean, I need a new needle, I think the jet is fine, its the tapered end of the needle at WOT that is still too thick. I was gonna take light sandpaper to the tapered end. Then said let me look at everything again. This problem all started when I did my oil consumption deal. I thought the engine wasn't getting enought oil with the injector pump so I added oil into the fuel and changed the plug to a hotter plug. Now I also ran the engine with some fuel that already had 30 to 1 oil in it and it ran like crap. So, I added clean no oil fuel, ran it still had problems. I noticed the carbs needle every time I pulled it , it had 2 stroke oil on it, the engine is getting oil. I unscrewed the needle cap a turn or two loose in order to raise the needle higher to a less tapered end and allow more fuel at WOT and it again worked BUT my low end suffered alot, almost unbearable, so that was not a solution. Same as moving the needle's clip up would make the engine lean out much quicker on WOT, moving the clip down would make the engine run much longer on WOT before leaning out BUT it would make starting out from a standstill as in on a red light much slower, the engine would shrug for 5 to 8 seconds till the extra fuel burned off, I got honked at once ! So I knew this was not the solution, I can't give one up for the other. So I set the needle one spot lower than where it was supposed to be, or once slot richer. Take off was still very good, just a 1 maybe maybe 2 second delay, like before I had any problems then slingshot off. If I moved it one up I'd have instant response but Top end would lean out much quicker.
Then I thought all this fuel and oil must have shot my plug by now so I pulled it. I looked at it and what I saw surprsed me. The tip looked melted! I pulled the new NGK 8 plug out, said its time and popped it in. Although in all fairness i did have the Champion equvalant to the NGK 8 plug in before all thyese WOT leaning isses. Ok, So I slapped in the new NGK 8 plug and went for a test ride. I can now go like 4 miles WOT before I see any hesitation. Its like it was before. Before these problems. I never rode it WOT for more than 20 seconds while breaking it in. I rode it as I did while break in and it was same, SO, it was my plug and me adding too much oil! In a full tank, I would add no more than 1 ounce during break in, thats what I was doing a Nyquil cup! After breakin nothing and stick with the NGK 8 plug, I was wrong! Now, when I get my drill bit set, and extra jets, I will check to see what I have now. If I am at a #100 jet I may try a size up or two up, might as well. A jet only costs $5, if it doesn't work, then I know I need a new needle for my stock jet OR a new Carb as the stock is maxed out. If I need a new carb, I will go with a pipe muffler , might as well, all or nothing. My scooter has about 400 miles on the new Polini BB, if it wanted to seize it would have done so by now.
So, I will hold off, I can ride it all day so long as I see the needle on the cluster, 50/55 mph, but if its buried, I have a few miles no more. Let off on it a bit and its back. If I slap a muffler on it, R1 or anything, I am sure I will lean it out WOT for sure, The Corsa just pulls too much IMHO
More to come, but now I am off to Oklahoma. Oh as for the airbox redoing, yeah I opened up mine up alot but if you leave it as is, you'll still get WOT lean outs, and preformance will suffer. I used some foam to block it off and make sure It wasn't the cover redo. Its better as I have it RIGHT NOW. Unless someone else has a Corsa on an stock eliete and has it running right and if so, share the knowledge, I am all ears!
Peter
also i wojuld pull the exhaust and roll the motor over and shine a light on the piston to make sure its not scored. if it is then you have another job. and more money to spend. all that oil is not good for things. it gets wayyyyyy too lean. good luck
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MopedMan84
Re: dont forget who made the computer!!!!!!!
MySpree wrote:ok dude, im not trying to call you out, or make you sound dumb, but how many have you built? turned? raced? how many parts have you been trough? you are so negative, and so smart with your air plane knowledge. No i cant build a plane, and i admit it. just like you don't know much about elites.The diff is i dont try to sound like i know what im talking about. Have you ever seen a elite run with the cover off? do you even understand that your not supposed to run an electric start 72cc? you know your gonna start a fire? Have you ever worked at a motorcycle shop? how about honda? or even a powersports store that specializes in mopeds?you have to understand, its a difference, and with those pics you prove one of the aspects on the variator. the steeper incline, the longer backplate guides. the belt does get to riding higher, it does get to the top, and the angle does change were and how it rides. the speed variators diff shape makes it smoother trough the power band, instead of like the stock one, it zipps on up, and thats why peoples mid range sucks. it is not a smooth transition. the speed variator is. don't complain about something you don't fully understand. you can have an opinion, but you cannot tell people IT DON'T WORK IT SUCKS ITS FACT! because you know no facts, you have nothing but opinions, you make hasty generalizations that something you don't fully understand is wrong. the inner workings of the elite may seem easy, simple, but just like making a pipe, you dont just weld two cones together and it works, its a specific length for the engine, its a specific angle for most power gain, it has the proper amount of backpressure, things don't just work the "same" because they look the "same". and just because no one else has the balls to defy you on here doesn't mean they don't think your dumb to say this. i have talked online to many individuals who know for a fact as i do the variator makes a diff. and with this made to this precision the littlest mm counts. And the gears you bought, truthfully you would have been fine, you think your 72cc is strong enough to break them? that it has the power to break them? try having 127cc engine, and running those, then they will break. unless you have over a 90cc, you wont beak them, this isn't aluminum. yes you wanted to be safer then sorry, i get that. the only thing that worries me about those gears is you could hand press them, these are held on by pressure, if you could hand press them that would have been really bad. so i give you power to complain there, i get that. but just like the variator, you make generalizations like what you say is law, you leave any room for opinion, you think that what you say is law, and if you don't think that, you sure as * act like it. understand the that human eye cant account for the subtle changes in geometry, hence why we have computers doing precision work, because no matter what the human does, in aspects of precision, a computer will always win. its sad yes, its bad that a machine has surpassed us yes. But as i have stated, you cannot make a generalization to that magnitude, its plain out wrong, stupid, and only and opinion.
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MopedMan84
Re: Preformance Speed Variator is BS on Elite SR50
just settle the fight by racing you * and stop arguing about who can * farther you cry babies!
you got somethin to say come race me,then talk your s*** then.. roller this carb size that.... stfu
you got somethin to say come race me,then talk your s*** then.. roller this carb size that.... stfu
Re: Preformance Speed Variator is BS on Elite SR50
9 whole posts and no location given, not only throws doubt on your scooter abilities, but makes it tough to run your sorry butt down to race it.MopedMan84 wrote:just settle the fight by racing you * and stop arguing about who can * farther you cry babies!
you got somethin to say come race me,then talk your s*** then.. roller this carb size that.... stfu
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'83 Aero 80 X 3
'84 Aero 80 X 3
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'84 Aero 125 X 2
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'84 Aero 125 X 2
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'85 Spree
Re: dont forget who made the computer!!!!!!!
trying to figure out who this rant is aimed at. its too funny when ya read it .MopedMan84 wrote:MySpree wrote:ok dude, im not trying to call you out, or make you sound dumb, but how many have you built? turned? raced? how many parts have you been trough? you are so negative, and so smart with your air plane knowledge. No i cant build a plane, and i admit it. just like you don't know much about elites.The diff is i dont try to sound like i know what im talking about. Have you ever seen a elite run with the cover off? do you even understand that your not supposed to run an electric start 72cc? you know your gonna start a fire? Have you ever worked at a motorcycle shop? how about honda? or even a powersports store that specializes in mopeds?you have to understand, its a difference, and with those pics you prove one of the aspects on the variator. the steeper incline, the longer backplate guides. the belt does get to riding higher, it does get to the top, and the angle does change were and how it rides. the speed variators diff shape makes it smoother trough the power band, instead of like the stock one, it zipps on up, and thats why peoples mid range sucks. it is not a smooth transition. the speed variator is. don't complain about something you don't fully understand. you can have an opinion, but you cannot tell people IT DON'T WORK IT SUCKS ITS FACT! because you know no facts, you have nothing but opinions, you make hasty generalizations that something you don't fully understand is wrong. the inner workings of the elite may seem easy, simple, but just like making a pipe, you dont just weld two cones together and it works, its a specific length for the engine, its a specific angle for most power gain, it has the proper amount of backpressure, things don't just work the "same" because they look the "same". and just because no one else has the balls to defy you on here doesn't mean they don't think your dumb to say this. i have talked online to many individuals who know for a fact as i do the variator makes a diff. and with this made to this precision the littlest mm counts. And the gears you bought, truthfully you would have been fine, you think your 72cc is strong enough to break them? that it has the power to break them? try having 127cc engine, and running those, then they will break. unless you have over a 90cc, you wont beak them, this isn't aluminum. yes you wanted to be safer then sorry, i get that. the only thing that worries me about those gears is you could hand press them, these are held on by pressure, if you could hand press them that would have been really bad. so i give you power to complain there, i get that. but just like the variator, you make generalizations like what you say is law, you leave any room for opinion, you think that what you say is law, and if you don't think that, you sure as * act like it. understand the that human eye cant account for the subtle changes in geometry, hence why we have computers doing precision work, because no matter what the human does, in aspects of precision, a computer will always win. its sad yes, its bad that a machine has surpassed us yes. But as i have stated, you cannot make a generalization to that magnitude, its plain out wrong, stupid, and only and opinion.