Can you use a stock belt with a pulley mod?
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Can you use a stock belt with a pulley mod?
Can the rear pulley give enough to enable the retaining of a stock belt with the pulley mod?
HONDA NQ50 "FIREBLADE"
- Farfignugin
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probably but by keeping the original belt and not getting a longer one you actually double what you are trying to do and in most cases with a spree that will put too much of a load on the engine (the rear pulley will open making the contact area smaller and decreasing the ratio (ex: 3:1 compared to 1:1)).
Most spree engines unless extremely modded cannot take much of a load and that is why everyone says to get the longer belt when doing the speed pulley mod.
Most spree engines unless extremely modded cannot take much of a load and that is why everyone says to get the longer belt when doing the speed pulley mod.
Scooters I have:
1985 (mostly unmodded) Honda Spree
2007 Honda Silverwing
1985 (mostly unmodded) Honda Spree
2007 Honda Silverwing
So as long as I take note of how much longer the new belt needs to be, it will still work with a stock belt ? And if need be I can get the right belt later. I've got a few spares now, I might shave a head and drill out a few baffles first, then see how it copes with the extra load. I'm too mean to buy a new belt unless I absolutely have to.
HONDA NQ50 "FIREBLADE"
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- Farfignugin
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- CBR1000RR
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It rides higher on the front pulley and lower on the rear pulley.fireblade wrote:How would a wider belt make the gearing higer.
Last edited by Kenny_McCormic on Sat Feb 23, 2008 2:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I am not a mechanic, nor do I play one on TV. Actually my advice is probably worth slightly less than what you pay to view it.
The front pulley gets a fixed width, with the rear pulley taking up the slack by changing effective diameter.
It's hard to explain, easy to visualize if you pull off the pulley cover and take a look.
The pulley is really sensitive to changes; you need to remove material in the .010" range and see how it goes. Too much ratio change and you'll bog the engine. Of course, you can also raise compression / lightly port the exhaust to help offset that too.
rac
It's hard to explain, easy to visualize if you pull off the pulley cover and take a look.
The pulley is really sensitive to changes; you need to remove material in the .010" range and see how it goes. Too much ratio change and you'll bog the engine. Of course, you can also raise compression / lightly port the exhaust to help offset that too.
rac
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It rides higher on BOTH pulleys cuz its fatter,Kenny_McCormic wrote:It rides higher on the front pulley and lower on the rear pulley.fireblade wrote:How would a wider belt make the gearing higer.
and beofre some one challenges my AUTHORI TYE. I own a 40 mph drag tractor with a similar belt type drive , ive been throughm my share of belts , and i did a plug chop to boot!
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- CBR1000RR
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Your forgetting that the rear pully SEPERATES AND ALLOWS THE BELT TO RIDE LOWER when the belt tension is increased by the belt riding higher on the front pulley.DrZ34 wrote:It rides higher on BOTH pulleys cuz its fatter,Kenny_McCormic wrote:It rides higher on the front pulley and lower on the rear pulley.fireblade wrote:How would a wider belt make the gearing higer.
and beofre some one challenges my AUTHORI TYE. I own a 40 mph drag tractor with a similar belt type drive , ive been throughm my share of belts , and i did a plug chop to boot!
I am not a mechanic, nor do I play one on TV. Actually my advice is probably worth slightly less than what you pay to view it.
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