Disc brake Conversion: Joe dirt style

[deuce217]

It is obviously not done yet but when I get another 30 minutes it will be.

[deuce217]

Now for the hard part... Creating the bracket.. I've got to go hide and draw a few scetches. I will report back when I have something..

[geezer101]

Was looking at the disc brake set up and this will be hurdle getting it to work - finding a suitable mounting point for the brake caliper. To me it looks like the caliper is designed for fitment on the left side of the wheel and there's all this moving pivot set up for the front axle. Good luck with the conversion deuce, prove it can be done!

[deuce217]

Was looking at the disc brake set up and this will be hurdle getting it to work - finding a suitable mounting point for the brake caliper. To me it looks like the caliper is designed for fitment on the left side of the wheel and there's all this moving pivot set up for the front axle. Good luck with the conversion deuce, prove it can be done!

Thanks, I know it seems hard but it would be great for those of us that can't a ford 500-800 bucks. The bracket is going to be tricky because the distance between mounting points is far which creates more tendion at the mounting bolts do to leverage/ mechanical advantage.

[Fishman43]

Your machine skillz can make it happen

Next on your to do list after the rollers and disk conversion should be a variator for the spree engine, you would go from hero to god

... and I don't even own a Spree (any longer)

[deuce217]

Your machine skillz can make it happen

Next on your to do list after the rollers and disk conversion should be a variator for the spree engine, you would go from hero to god

... and I don't even own a Spree (any longer)

Tried it, too booku! Tazland has a way with using the honda pal crank shaft. It's longer which allows the spree to have a variation. Then the kinck cover is the next issue

[SpamMusubi4Life]

That is one clean Aero you have there! I too have one and when you complete your fabrication, I will definitely buy one off you. I gotta have one. Gimme gimme gimme!

[Majourlittle]

I have though about doing this before as well. I have held back because I need to get the scooter to scoot first...

My though was to build a caliper bracket off of the pivot arm. Because it is attached to the center of the wheel and is pivoting from the front fork, It always stays stationary in reference/plane to the caliper. just mount the caliper below and forward and brace it off of the pivot arm.

[noiseguy]

... OK ...

I can't see anywhere that you could attach the caliper that wouldn't move with the suspension, other than the axle. Even the axle linkage will rotate around the wheel... if you attach it there you're going to get some wicked brake dive.

Suggest that you make a triangle bracket and mount to axle and 2 points on caliper... may need a longer axle bolt. Then run a brace with Heim joints (or similar rotating ends) that go from one end of the caliper to the fixed arm on the fork. This 2nd attachment could be welded or clamped... latter would be better for a kit. This link will prevent rotation of the caliper around the axle on the triangle bracket, and suspension jounce will just rotate the caliper slightly fore-aft around the circumference of the rotor.

Stiffness of the triangle bracket would be the main concern... I think this will need to be fairly thick to prevent twisting / locking of caliper. The 2nd linkage would need to be pretty stout as well since it will take the brunt of the braking force... the fork attachment may need to be welded... experiment required.

Anyrate, that's the only way I see this working. LMK if you need more details on how this design would work... I think you get the drift.

[noiseguy]

Next on your to do list after the rollers and disk conversion should be a variator for the spree engine, you would go from hero to god

I drew up a plan for making a Spree variator that would fit under the stock sidecover. See if you can find it

[deuce217]

Next on your to do list after the rollers and disk conversion should be a variator for the spree engine, you would go from hero to god

I drew up a plan for making a Spree variator that would fit under the stock sidecover. See if you can find it

Good work, I will off in afghanistan for about a year and a half my studies will continue upon my return. Thanks for your knowledge.

[deuce217]

Next on your to do list after the rollers and disk conversion should be a variator for the spree engine, you would go from hero to god

I drew up a plan for making a Spree variator that would fit under the stock sidecover. See if you can find it

Good work, I will off in afghanistan for about a year and a half my studies will continue upon my return. Thanks for your knowledge.

[Trafficjamz]

Next on your to do list after the rollers and disk conversion should be a variator for the spree engine, you would go from hero to god

I drew up a plan for making a Spree variator that would fit under the stock sidecover. See if you can find it

Geez, haven't we already been through this? As I recall, looking at this later, there was a minor issue with this design, but it was in the drawing, and something that could be overcome.
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OK. Here's a Spree variator that someone should be able to make from off-the-shelf stuff, with a lathe, welder, grinder, and some balancing tools. No special molds / dies required. Please excuse the poor drawings.

It's not dimensioned: x is the diameter for clearance to crank (probably +.001" to crank size) and y is arbitrary, though some of the y need to be bigger for clearance to rotate. You can figure it out.

First image is the stock pulley. You'll need a lathe. Machine out the inside, enlarge center hole, remove outer boss. Drill and tap for screws to attach rear cover.



Second shows the blow-up. Ramp plate is not well detailed. Note flat variator back, of thin sheet steel. Simple to fabricate. Center bushing can be off the shelf or made on lathe. Weights could be ball bearings or rollers.



Last, detail of ramp plate. Since the variator outer is simple, the ramp plate is more complicated. It needs to have channels to hold the weights in place. Not sure if this will work without channel guides on the variator outer, but since the throw is short (1/8") if the balls are larger than that (say 1/4") then they shouldn't be able to fall out. I think you make the guide from steel U-channel, then weld it together in the cross-shape, bent back. You will want to balance (probably dynamically) this part when you're done, as it needs to rotate fast. The cross-design is arbitrary; it could be a three-channel design as well. I think it would need to be tapered as you go out (thicker in the center,) but it's beyond me how much or what it would look like complete.

ERROR IN DRAWING: That center hole should be x, not y. Otherwise it won't work. And for that matter, all the variator back needs to do is keep the ramp plate inside the variator outer. Center hole could be larger, as needed.



One thing I forgot to design are the guide sliders for the ramp plate (the ramp plate would not rotate with crank as shown.) You could weld fins to the variator outer and let the ramp plate slide on that. You would then need to balance the variator outer as well. Probably should do this with the whole thing assembled and without the balls.

This can all be made from off-the-shelf parts and materials, but will require some skills with machine tools. But there's no expensive one-off tooling to buy.

If anyone builds this, I'd like to see it. Have fun!

[stucinthe80z]

that is sweet