2000 Elite S Build - "Mr. Grey"

[Rancher1]

When I did mine I put the kick stand on the frame and then marked the frame. I'm pretty sure mine is done closer to the front. It went in like butter.

Closer to the front meaning to the far left of (C)? There isn't realestate available slightly to the left as the frame joints are in the way. There is space in the (D) area however it's not obvious to me if the nuts have clearance for the hanger above it.

[1man8scoots]

Naraku vs 101 octane

[1man8scoots]

Later on tonight if I get a moment I'll take a picture of mine. I could pull the engine also as I want to throw in my buddies mini stroker I just built for break in.

[Rancher1]

Variator brand pulleys are trail n error. The best pulley is Daytona .

8.4 gear is a good all round. N 1 k center spring.
Was my setup on my red s. S stock pipe, keli pulley, k ramp / all 7 grams, stock s trans, 24oko n ct chrome. Got 60 plus.

What is the advantage of the Daytona over a Kelli or Polini? What is the diameter of the Daytona? Reading some of Wheelman's old posts:

The Diameter matters. Stock Aero/Dio is 87-ishmm. Polini for Aero and SA is 90. Ruck is around 91 or so, methinks. Polini-for-Ruck is 94. I took a chance and bought an unknown for-Ruck item that measures a whopping 97 and managed to make it fit. It's the one I'm using now, but not convinced it's better than the Polini on top. However I like its midrange performance.

Even with a 94, a longer belt may be needed or it will bottom out a stock belt in the rear pulley and potentially overheat and break.

The other issue is the fixed side of the front pulley. The conical diameter is 93mm on the Elite. It may be a tad larger in my Kymco sheave, but probably not 97.

If you keep the stock rear pulleys, Polini 248.006 belt and careful atention to shimming the front boss works well in the SE05 case with an oversize variator. Malossi also once had a longer 15.5mm wide belt. You have to make sure the belt rides as close to center in front without slipping.

Polini for Dio is ~90mm with Polini for Ruckus ~94mm. I might be interested in the Ruckus variant but wasn't sure what level of shaving would be needed to fit it. Polini for Dio seemed like a nice drop in upgrade. I know the ramp angles matter for the transition characteristics but was ignoring them to keep things simple for now.

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

I'm using a BR7HIX and it seems at home in the similar Polini Contesta. Most higher-output kits need an 8 or 9. Unless you plan only the most sedate riding and never open the throttle wide - that's a trick on public roads with a 72cc - consider at least a 7.

[Rancher1]

Hmm, I just ordered a BR8HS instead of a BR8HSA. The description says the tip is non-projected vs projected. I'm not familiar with plugs as much as I should be. Is the BR8HS still good here?

[Rancher1]

if you a want to do 55mph without revving to the moon. dont go with 9.1 gears.

8.4:1 would be much better.

If you do a zx trans i wold recomend 8.0 or 7.5 gears.

Thanks for suggestions guys. I'm thinking I'll try 8.4:1 first and if the low-end feels like it needs some help, get a ZX trans.

If I went with a larger diameter front pulley (like Polini for Dio) and the ZX trans, will the belt Graphite sells in his kit still work?

Is the reason you suggest taller gears with a ZX trans because you'll gain some low-end back to balance or does the ZX limit top-end?

Now I just got to find a local shop that can press the gears..

[curtis966]

The 8s will do you fine. Just make sure you gap it correctly. As for the shaving for the polini for ruckus. It's is a quick an easy job with a dremel.

[Trafficjamz]

if you a want to do 55mph without revving to the moon. dont go with 9.1 gears.

8.4:1 would be much better.

If you do a zx trans i wold recomend 8.0 or 7.5 gears.

Thanks for suggestions guys. I'm thinking I'll try 8.4:1 first and if the low-end feels like it needs some help, get a ZX trans.

If I went with a larger diameter front pulley (like Polini for Dio) and the ZX trans, will the belt Graphite sells in his kit still work?

Is the reason you suggest taller gears with a ZX trans because you'll gain some low-end back to balance or does the ZX limit top-end?

Now I just got to find a local shop that can press the gears..

You will gain back much more low end.
top speed with a zx could be limited if you do not upgrade the front pulley to a larger one.
top speed on 8.4 gears is way above your current goal of 55mph

[Rancher1]

Realistically, I'd be doing under 45mph for 95% of the driving. There are some decent stretches of road that need 45-55 sustained. Over 55mph is likely not likely except maybe on the occasional fun ride. I was originally thinking 9:1 because of those driving needs, but if sustained 45-55 will require full RPM I thought 8.4:1 will help keep a nice cruising RPM. I used to run a heavily modded SA50P with much taller gears but that setup was very different. I'd really like to preserve the stock look and definatley need to keep the sound down, hence the stock pipe/carb. I still need to climb some pretty steep hills but don't need speed in that.

I'm trying to understand the ZX trans characteristics. I know it's larger so provides more low-end torque and requires the cover to be off. Is the minimum diameter when fully compressed also larger than stock hence the negative affect on top-end? If it's a belt width/length factor I can see why you'd want to match a similar large front pulley so at max RPM the belt can compress the rear pulley down near it's base.

I got the painting done and installing a few more accessories but when done I'll post pics. It's getting close. Maybe a few more days.

[Rip_City_Spree]

I used to say I didn't need to go that fast, now Its hard to keep her under 50.

[Rancher1]

Anyone familiar with the wiring? I bought a Pyle motorcycle alarm and got it all setup except for the remote start function. The output for the remote start is 12v but from what I can tell the bike start signal from the 'start' button actually just connects ground which tells the ignition circuit to go. Actually it also needs a 12v signal from the brake line. Given the alarm only has one 12v signal output, I don't see how you can trick the ignition circuit into starting (without building another circuit to provide a GND signal as well). The only way I see is to bypass the ignition circuit and send that 12v straight to the starter motor as drive current. Of course the alarm manual sucks so I have no idea if this was the intention or if it's just supposed to be a low current signal line.

[deuce217]

You might need to use a relay to isolate the two. Graphite is an electrician and could probably recommend something more specific. I think what you need is a double pole double throw relay. This should work http://www.amazon.com/240VAC-28VDC-Elec ... dpdt+realy

[Rancher1]

I was afraid of that. Looks like a 12v DPDT relay set to jump the brake and start button lines is the right way to do it. Thanks for the help fellas.

I was going to setup the remote start just for the cool factor and since the capability was included, but I can't think of any situation where I would actually use it. That said, for $6 now I have to do it. Before that, I need to double check the alarm is also energizing (and holding) the ignition 12v line.

[Rancher1]

Polini variator and 8.4:1 gears ordered from Graphite. Man you guys are a bad influence on my wallet.

I called 9 motorcycle/scooter shops in my area and every one of them had no idea how to install/press gears on this bike. A couple of them said bring the old/new gear sets in and they'll just try to make it look the same. As I haven't swapped gears personally (always had a shop do it) is there anything special about the job I should let these guys know? It seems like a straight forward procedure and I'm assuming these guys are competent mechanics.