Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

Weezerjerry wrote:I did my tear down yesterday and it was SUPER simple. The hard part is going to be tuning the carb I think. The remove and reinstall is the easy part.

Tuning the carb is not that difficult. The trick is only make one change at a time. A cylinder head temp gauge is a great investment for carb tuning. And a whole bunch of new spark plugs

Are there torque specs for the 4 bolts on top? If i get lucky my kit may come in today it says its in tampa yesterday so who knows.

Another reason why i want the new carb is cause mine leaks at the gas inlet. Someone before me pulled on the hose and pulled the brass nipple right offf. Thats why when i went to soaking the carb i found the strands of rubber silicone or whatever come out. I polished the float valve seat and replaced the valve. I can see evidence that i think it also leaks at the top over flow nipple behind the carb. Can i re silicone the brass gas inlet nipple, which stuff is good?

Also should i be using 32:1 premix the entire life of the engine? I used this calculator for measuring 32:1 premix for 5 gallons of gas.

http://www.csgnetwork.com/oilfuelcalc.html

Its calling for 20oz of oil for 5 gallons. Sounds right?

Yes all its life!! 4oz to a gallon is 32/1 so yes 20oz for 5 gallons

Ok here is where I'm at. Do I need to reuse my exhaust bolts. How do I.remove? Also with the rings which way do the ring notchs go on the piston ? Are both rings the same? Check out the head how did it get like this? How Should I install circlips? Thank you....almost there . .....photo is to large. But the head is black and crudy on one side . The part where the spark plug goes

Alright I got her running . It's pretty sweet. Now how do I properly break it in? So far I just let it idle for 15 minutes. Still running the pump but mixed 50:1 and it's smoking good. Seems about right . Gonna order the plug soon. When can I ride it ? Thank you all for the help couldn't have done it without Ya

Shoot I could see oil coming from exhaust and my exhaust bolt is loose possibly a new crush washer washer looks good though

Read up on heat cycles. Many different opinions. I heat cycle mine about 10 times then half throttle first tank then should be good to go.

Im going through the EXACT same process right now, jakub....BBK, Mixing 50:1 with oil pump, smoking pretty good, oil seeping from exhaust connection, looking for oil pump delete plug remedy...ALL THE SAME! I did 3-4 heat cycles and started riding it very gently at low to half throttle. Keeping it between 5-15mph with varying rpm ranges. Trying not to go long periods of the same rpm. SHORT TRIPS. 5 minutes around the block twice and parked it for a complete cool down. Ive gone through a full tank so far with no major hiccups except the seepage from the exhaust which I plan to try and improve by lowering my fuel mixture to 70:1 (oil pump intact) for my 2nd tankful. Wheelman says 50:1 plus oil pump is WAAY too much oil. Im tired of the guesswork of "how much does the stock oil pump pump?" so Im definitely deleting it as soon as I find a plug that will work.

theres a video on YouTube with a guy making a oil pump plug it's called
1985 HONDA SPREE BIG BORE KIT PART 1 His YouTube name is Evan..
It 15 min long the plug is around 1min 50sec left

What I did was put 1.25oz of oil with a gallon. I will not ride it till I fix my oil seepage. I haven't road it since seeing the seepage. I need to find out how to tighten the exhaust stud bolts. I could turn one by hand. I'm thinking of just grinding off the gear on oil pump and sticking it back in.

Do you mean the stud is loose where it screws into the motor? Btw, 1.25oz of oil per gallon is about 100:1.

Yes the stud bolts on the exhaust manifold . d*** I guess I am an idiot

so in that case, You have to take your muffler off. Then you take both of the exhaust nuts and thread them onto the same stud. Tighten the nuts together and cinch them back-to-back with two wrenches (or 1 wrench and a socket, whatever you have). Make sure the nuts are facing washer side to washer side of each other. Also make sure youre in the middle of the threads somewhere on the stud, not bottomed out where theres no threads. Once the nuts are tight against each other, simply use a wrench on one of the nuts and tighten the stud. Release the nuts with two wrenches again and remove them. Repeat process on other stud while youre there to make sure its tight. I used "Liquid Wrench" lubricant on everything when I did mine since exhaust bolts usually are dry and rusty. Makes threading the nuts on/off much easier too.

You dont need to grind the gear off. You can just pull the oil pump out and pull the shaft gear right out of the pump and put it back in. Thatll delete the pump. Then on the hose that feeds and intakes oil into pump, cut them short (about 2") and find a machine screw that can thread into them snug, coat the thread with some type of permatex gasket maker to make sure there air tight. That worked for me, however ive heard an actual oil pump delete plug fills that area better and promotes better compression, but im sure its not a noticable amount.