HOW TO - Spree to Ruck/Met Front End Swap

Does your Spree/Elite already run great, and you're trying to make it quicker/faster? Need a monster motor swap? Discuss your ideas here.

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R1Titan911
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HOW TO - Spree to Ruck/Met Front End Swap

Post by R1Titan911 »

The following instructions are how to swap your current Spree front end to a Ruckus/Metropolitan front end. I am not responsible for any of your actions.
Be safe and always remember to wear the proper personal protective equipment when working on your bike!

What you need:
1. (1) Honda Spree frame with the following stock chassis parts:
1a. Upper & Lower Frame Races (These are the 2 in the neck of the frame)
1b. (1) Race Nut with (2) Stem Nuts
2. (1) Ruckus/Metropolitan Triple Tree ÔÇô Honda Part # 53219-GEZ-020
3. (1) Ruckus/Metropolitan Brake Cable Guide ÔÇô Honda Part # 53203-GEZ-010
4. (1) 94' Elite Lower Race ÔÇô Honda Part # 53212-147-003
4a. Or you can get the adapter from SSS which I believe eliminates the removal of the stock Ruck/Met lower race.
5. (2) 94' Elite Bearings ÔÇô Honda Part # 53210-GR1-751
6. Tools
7. Oxy/Act Torch or a Propane Torch will work
8. Freezer
9. 1ÔÇØ SCH40 Steel Pipe

Here is the parts configuration:
Image


HOT WORK ÔÇô WEAR GLOVES & EYE PROTECTION!
To remove the lower race I took a dremmel with a cutting blade and cut some notches in the Ruck/Met lower race. I also put a notch on the side so that I can set a chisel in to prevent it from sliding off.
I then heated up the race with a torch for thermal expansion.
I used a chisel and a hammer to knock it off.
Image


Here is the lower part of the stem with the lower race off.
Image


To install the new lower Elite race, it needs to be pressed on. Or you can do like the rest of us and stick the triple tree in the freezer for a few minutes. For assurance purposes, I heated up the race too.
The way I got it down was to use a long piece of 1ÔÇØ SCH40 steel pipe (just long enough to pass the top of the stem), dropped the hot race down on the cold tree, stuck the pipe over and wacked the pipe with a hammer on top. (BE QUICK & make sure you have pressure on the pipe and keep it square. So when you hit it, you try to keep from damaging the race) If your not quick, the temps will equalize you will not be able to get it on, without chance of damaging the race.
Image


Next we are going to need a spacer to accommodate the extra stem length of the new tree. Depending on what handle bar set up you want to you I recommend using one between 3.5ÔÇØ to 4.5ÔÇØ. For my application I am using 316L Stainless Steel to minimize corrosion.
(I am using 4.5ÔÇØ with a stem and drag bar set up. This is as long as I can go to still have enough threads on the stem for the set & locking nuts.)
Use a saw with the correct blade to cut your spacer to length.
File the ID and OD of any sharp edges and grind the pipe square if your cut was crooked lol.
Image


Now we have to modify the old upper upper race.
The naming of the races gets tricky lol, but to keep it simple I used the following:
Lowers (The 2 under the frame)
1. Lower Lower ÔÇô The one we heat and beat off and is at the bottom of the tree.
2. Lower Upper ÔÇô The one that goes in the frame.
Uppers (The 2 on top of the frame)
1. Upper Lower ÔÇô The one that goes in the frame.
2. Upper Upper ÔÇô THE BIG NUT

Ok now thatÔÇÖs over with, take THE BIG NUT and grind out the threads. We need this to slide all the way back down to the Upper Lower Race.
I used an end-grinder with a burr bit.
Image


Grease your bearings and now put it all together and is should look a little something like this!
You want to use (2) of the locking nuts on top of the spacer. One to set, and one to lock. When you have the set nut all the way down, back it off about 1/8" turn and tighten the lock nut.
Image


The next thing to tackle are the bump stops. With this new triple tree your turning radius will be VERY minimal. I took the advice of GEARHART and cut the stops on the tree down to be able to go underneath the horn cover bracket. Then drill a hole for a bolt in the horn cover bracket to drop down and create a new stopping point.
Image


Working Progress but here is how she sits currently as of 1/19/17 (I will update this pic as i get better ones) To See progress on my build click the link in my signature.
Image


Be mindful that the Ruckus/Metropolitan have about a ┬¢ÔÇØ width difference so depending on what wheel/forks/brakes you use, this width needs to be taken into consideration for the size spacer you need. (Was simple for me, Ruck Tree, Ruck Wheels, Ruck Spacer).

Big Shout-out to HotHatch & GearHart for assisting me with this phase of the project! :2thumbs:
Compliments to Brandon with SSS (AKA G9) and Ryan with TRS for the bling!
Use bikebandit as a source for OEM parts and diagrams!

It may not be kosher to use Ruck parts on a Spree, but it sure as hèll is AWESOME! :rock:

RIDE SAFE!
(I think i posted this in the right thread, if not move it, and make it a STICKY!)
Last edited by R1Titan911 on Thu Jan 19, 2017 4:40 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: HOW TO - Spree to Ruck/Met Front End Swap

Post by Wheelman-111 »

Greetings:

A copy of R1's fine work is now available in Advanced Tech Documents. If I were smarter, I'd post it in WikiSpreedia too. Noisy?
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Re: HOW TO - Spree to Ruck/Met Front End Swap

Post by Meatball »

Info on that front fender would just add to the awesomeness of this "how-to". We've all seen plenty of fender/knee shield hack jobs but that one looks great. Thx for your efforts, Titan.
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bonesv
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Re: HOW TO - Spree to Ruck/Met Front End Swap

Post by bonesv »

:worship: Beautiful write-up on this previously hard to find information. Not kosher? I didn't see any ruckus parts....... :wink:
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Re: HOW TO - Spree to Ruck/Met Front End Swap

Post by Armstrong1 »

Pretty sweet and detailed examples! Instead of chopping the stops on the triple, you can always grind the welds and flip the bracket 180 degrees on the frame.

You won't really need the stops as the forks will only turn so much and the nose cowl still will bolt up.
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R1Titan911
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Re: HOW TO - Spree to Ruck/Met Front End Swap

Post by R1Titan911 »

Armstrong1 wrote:Pretty sweet and detailed examples! Instead of chopping the stops on the triple, you can always grind the welds and flip the bracket 180 degrees on the frame.

You won't really need the stops as the forks will only turn so much and the nose cowl still will bolt up.
That is a great idea but another thing to be taken into consideration is the center to center measurements of the bolt holes on the bracket and the bolt that goes through the top of the horn cover. If you flip it and its off, the horn cover won't mount.

As for the fender, it's pretty straight forward, MOUNT THE RUCK FENDER. Really no details needed, It's a Ruck Tree so the Ruck fender mounts on it as it should.

Little high IMO but I thought my "SLAMMED" forks would drop a Ruck front end 2"... But it didn't. It only dropped it 1/2" and everyone is telling me this is normal... Just misleading when the ad says lower you Ruck front end 51mm AKA 2" :*:

Thank you all for the great feedback. Just trying my best to give back to the scoot community as you have all helped me with my build thus far, and I havn't even reached the hard part yet :imo: But i'm sure you all will be there every step of the way.
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Re: HOW TO - Spree to Ruck/Met Front End Swap

Post by Meatball »

R1Titan911 wrote:I thought my "SLAMMED" forks would drop a Ruck front end 2".
Ive seen people drop their legs by cutting the spring. Same way we used to lower our cars back in the day since we couldn't afford an actual lowering kit. I have stock Met legs on the Elite at the moment and am going to try it. This will be sort-of a test to see how I like it. Heres an interesting read on the topic....

Go to page 4 and scroll down. Guy that did it posted decent pics and results....

http://totalruckus.com/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 12&t=15484

I don't know the dimensions the NCY springs but these are cheap enough to buy and cut as a test....if they even fit.

http://www.scooterpartscatalog.com/fron ... 00-98.html
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R1Titan911
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Re: HOW TO - Spree to Ruck/Met Front End Swap

Post by R1Titan911 »

Yes I have seen the fork modifications. I just shouldn't have to do that when an ad claims to drop 51mm lol.

"These legs will lower the front of your Ruck 51mm" when its actually 12.7mm...

G9 actually got in touch with NCY about this matter and it is what it is... I'll live with it for now, and will chop em' later if it still bothers me lol!
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Re: HOW TO - Spree to Ruck/Met Front End Swap

Post by SpreeorDie85 »

wow always wondered how this would be done. Thanks for this post. Sticky this bad boy.
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