How to clean the carb

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noiseguy
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How to clean the carb

Post by noiseguy »

From Jerry:
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1. remove air tube from air cleaner box. usually just a small metal ring held on by a phillips screw. push back out of the way.
2. remove fuel inlet hose at carb. factory is red fabric covered rubber tube. if the end is cracked or deteriorated replace. i recommend surgical tubing style replacement. any hardware store has it but take the old one with you. if you get surgical tube type no need for clamp at end of hose.
3. unscrew the barrel throttle assembly. lift straight up and out. lay to side and dont damage or get dirty.
4. unplug the choke wires at the bundle. older bikes have two wire connectors and newer has one plastic type connector. they are the exact same assembly. if you are changing this unit just crimp on two male connectors in its place.
5. remove vacuum tube at intake manifold. you want this off to fill the carb when you reassemble it.
6. completely remove the two 8 mm bolts attaching the carb to the intake. the shorter one goes away from the engine on the side of the choke. do not put these in the wrong way. the longer one in front will crush the choke and ruin the carb.
7. when you remove the carb you will notice a fuel drain hose that goes through the plastic air cover about an inch and just points to the ground. this allows you to completely drain the carb and drop out any water that has accumulated.
pull it out with the carb.
8. place the carb on a bench that is clean and its good practice to have a small plastic bowl or such to put parts in as you remove them. i always fill this with carb cleaner and it lets the parts soak while i work on the carb.
9. unscrew the two short phillips head screws that attach the choke assy. pull the choke completely out and lay aside for now. not in solvent. its electrical and the solvent will ruin it.
10. remove the two phillips head screws that attach the bowl to the bottom of the carb. pull the bowl completely off and spray cleaner into it to remove any heavy deposits. remove the hose and the drain screw completely. set these parts in the bowl. from the bottom of the carb, unscrew the main jet using a small straight slot screwdriver. place in bowl.
completely remove the idle screw and the air screw that go into the side of the carb. place these to soak.
11. unscrew the phillips head screw that holds in the needle valve float and retaining pin. place all these parts in the bowl to soak.
12. completely clean the top part of the carb spraying cleaner into all the holes and tubes and surface area you can possibly see. do not use safety pins needles hair pins paper clips etc in any hole or tube. these are precision machined and you are going to ruin them if you do. all ports are to be cleaned with carb spray and compressed air only. if you dont have access to a compressor for the air use canned air available at office supply or computer stores. its expensive but better than trying to use a pin or something. if you have a problem getting cleaner to flow through any port just soak it a while longer. dont rush.

everything should be cleaned at this point and ready for reassembly.

13. place the fuel shutoff needle in the slot on the float and reinsert the pin that reatins it. carefully place the float and needle assy in place and replace the fat headed screw that hold the retaining pin into place. work the float up and down to make sure it doesnt stick. turn the carb upside down and check the needle is seating when the float is about level with the bottom of the upper half of the carb. do not apply pressure just let it seat itself. with the carb upside down if the float is higher than level you are running lean. gently push down on float until it seats at level. the float is plastic but will bend at the tang where the needle valve goes into the float. if its too low that means youre running rich and you have to gently bend the tang back up. just eyeball these settings they are important but not critical. you can measure if you want just refer to repair manual for specs.
14. reinstall the main jet make sure everything is entirely clean as you reassemble parts. screw in snug but dont reef on it. snug is fine.
15. reinstall the air mix screw. turn in until seated gently and then back it out one and seven eighths turn.
16. reinstall the idle screw. turn in until approx a quarter inch is visible as you look down into the barrel from the top of the carb.
17. inspect the gasket that is around bowl. if it is torn or broken replace. usually doesnt happen. they seem to last a long time.
18. reinstall the drain screw and snug. reinstall the drain hose on bowl.
19. reinstall the bowl using the two phillips screws. dont crossthread. this is aluminum and it gets destroyed easily. snug but dont force.
20. thoroughly spray the tip on the choke assy. clean off any residue. check for continuity on the two wires of the choke. if there is an open the choke is bad. again that doesnt happen very often either.
21. reinstall the choke making sure the o ring is in good condition and slides down into the orifice easily. reinstall the locking collar and then the two phillips screws. turn the choke until it clears the carb correctly. the plastic shroud tells you where to align it. not critical unless you have the shroud and then you have to align it correctly.
22. check the o ring on the carb first and then on the heat shield. the one on the heat shiel faces the engine and the one on the carb faces the heat shield. you need these to seal the intake. dont install the shield backwards. youll have two gaskets on one side and none on the other.
23. reinstall carb using the longer of the two screws closest to the engine. dont get the longer one outside. as it tightens it will crush the choke assy.
24. replace the fuel inlet line. this is the one that goes to the upper connection on the shutoff valve.
25. loosen drain screw on bottom of bowl.
26. draw suction on the smaller vacuum hose. keep doing it until fuel comes out the drain hose. tighten the drain screw and keep vacuum on the lower line until no more fuel runs in the carb. usually 30 seconds does it. this fills the bowl and keeps you from cranking so long when you first start the bike.
27. replace the vacuum hose to the intake manifold.
28. reinstall the throttle slider. there is a peg inside the barrel. there is a slot along the top to bottom of the barrel. align and drop in the throttle. screw cap tightly.
29. reinstall air inlet tube from air box. secure the ring retainer with the phillips screw.
30. plug the choke assy back into the wire harness. watch the color code.
start bike and allow to warm completely. if the idle is too high unscrew the idle until desired speed is attained.
31. when completely warm adjust the air screw in or out but no mare than a quarter turn until the highest idle is achieved.
32. reset the idle. i just put the bike on the kickstand and watch for the rear wheel to turn. if it does the idle is too high. too low and it will stall. repeat the above steps until it runs smoothly and idles correctly.
33. reinstall the side covers.
34. reach around and pat yourself on the back for a job well done.
scoot safely
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Post by noiseguy »

More from Islandbayy. Advantage is not having to remove the carb. You need a syringe and Sea Foam carb cleaner. I think if the author had pulled vacuum on the petcock and filled the bowl with fuel, it would have started after fewer tries.

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Hello all, I have a different method of cleaning the carb that was quite effective.

First, completly remove the idle adjustment screw. Next, use the carb drain screw to drain the gas from the carb.
Next, take a can of SeaFoam, and a Syringe, and inject 50 cc's of SeaFoam into the carb through the idle adjustment hole. Let it sit for 5-10 minutes. Inject another 100 cc's of Seafoam into the carb, and then use the syringe to withdraw the SeaFoam. Dirt and gunk and what not that is in the carb will come out. What doesnt come out, will on the next step.

Discard the withdrawn dirty SeaFoam fluid.

Inject another 50 cc SeaFoam into the carb.

Replace the idle adjustment screw, and reset the idle to what you had orignally (or close, for me, it was 2 complete turns out from being tight).

The bike will be hard to start, just keep at it. Takes 3-10 trys to get it started.

Once the bike starts (make sure your in A VERY WELL FREEKING VENTILATED AREA!!!!!!) Rev the bike up about 10-25% throttle. Just rev it up and down up and down for about 3 minutes.

Finally, after the 3 minutes, take it for a ride at Top Speed. Preferably on a not so busy road, as you will create a massive smoke screen behind you blinding other drivers!

After about 1/4 to 1/2 mile of driving, You should notice, that you have regained your speed (if speed issue was your reason for cleaning the carb).
You will also notice a smoother ride, faster acceleration.

The SeaFoam breaks down the gunk in the Carb, which some gotten removed, but most was just broken down so I could be burned. The SeaFoam also just royally cleaned out your combustion chamber.

This little process gained me an additional 3 MPH after removing the Exhaust restrictor and Clutch restrictor plate. After removing those, I was at 33 MPH top speed, now I am at 35-36 Mph
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Post by noiseguy »

Oh, and one more thing...

DON'T ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE BRASS TUBES FROM THE CARBS, YOU WILL BREAK THEM.

DON'T DRILL OR ATTEMPT TO MECHANICALLY SHOVE ANYTHING THROUGH THE IDLE JET, YOU WILL TRASH THE CARB.
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