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Keeping Spree Elite Aero 50cc and Gyro Alive!
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2017 2:41 pm 
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Joined: Wed Aug 17, 2016 3:11 pm
Posts: 353
Location: FloGrown
The following instructions are how to swap your current Spree front end to a Ruckus/Metropolitan front end. I am not responsible for any of your actions.
Be safe and always remember to wear the proper personal protective equipment when working on your bike!

What you need:
1. (1) Honda Spree frame with the following stock chassis parts:
1a. Upper & Lower Frame Races (These are the 2 in the neck of the frame)
1b. (1) Race Nut with (2) Stem Nuts
2. (1) Ruckus/Metropolitan Triple Tree – Honda Part # 53219-GEZ-020
3. (1) Ruckus/Metropolitan Brake Cable Guide – Honda Part # 53203-GEZ-010
4. (1) 94' Elite Lower Race – Honda Part # 53212-147-003
4a. Or you can get the adapter from SSS which I believe eliminates the removal of the stock Ruck/Met lower race.
5. (2) 94' Elite Bearings – Honda Part # 53210-GR1-751
6. Tools
7. Oxy/Act Torch or a Propane Torch will work
8. Freezer
9. 1” SCH40 Steel Pipe

Here is the parts configuration:
Image


HOT WORK – WEAR GLOVES & EYE PROTECTION!
To remove the lower race I took a dremmel with a cutting blade and cut some notches in the Ruck/Met lower race. I also put a notch on the side so that I can set a chisel in to prevent it from sliding off.
I then heated up the race with a torch for thermal expansion.
I used a chisel and a hammer to knock it off.
Image


Here is the lower part of the stem with the lower race off.
Image


To install the new lower Elite race, it needs to be pressed on. Or you can do like the rest of us and stick the triple tree in the freezer for a few minutes. For assurance purposes, I heated up the race too.
The way I got it down was to use a long piece of 1” SCH40 steel pipe (just long enough to pass the top of the stem), dropped the hot race down on the cold tree, stuck the pipe over and wacked the pipe with a hammer on top. (BE QUICK & make sure you have pressure on the pipe and keep it square. So when you hit it, you to try to keep from damaging the race) If your not quick, the temps will equalize you will not be able to get it on, without chance of damaging the race.
Image


Next we are going to need a spacer to accommodate the extra stem length of the new tree. Depending on what handle bar set up you want to you I recommend using one between 3.5” to 4.5”. For my application I am using 316L Stainless Steel to minimize corrosion.
(I am using 4.5” with a stem and drag bar set up. This is as long as I can go to still have enough threads on the stem for the set & locking nuts.)
Use a saw with the correct blade to cut your spacer to length.
File the ID and OD of any sharp edges and grind the pipe square if your cut was crooked lol.
Image


Now we have to modify the old upper upper race.
The naming of the races gets tricky lol, but to keep it simple I used the following:
Lowers (The 2 under the frame)
1. Lower Lower – The one we heat and beat off and is at the bottom of the tree.
2. Lower Upper – The one that goes in the frame.
Uppers (The 2 on top of the frame)
1. Upper Lower – The one that goes in the frame.
2. Upper Upper – NUT BIG NUT

Ok now that’s over with, take THE BIG NUT and grind out the threads. We need this to slide all the way back down to the Upper Lower Race.
I used an end-grinder with a burr bit.
Image


Grease your bearings and now put it all together and is should look a little something like this!
You want to use (2) of the locking nuts on top of the spacer. One to set, and one to lock. When you have the set nut all the way down, back it off about 1/8" turn and tighten the lock nut.
Image


The next thing to tackle are the bump stops. With this new triple tree your turning radius will be VERY minimal. I took the advice of GEARHART and cut the stops on the tree down to be able to go underneath the horn cover bracket. Then drill a hole for a bolt in the horn cover bracket to drop down and create a new stopping point.
Image


Working Progress but here is how she sits currently as of 1/19/17 (I will update this pic as i get better ones) To See progress on my build click the link in my signature.
Image


Be mindful that the Ruckus/Metropolitan have about a ½” width difference so depending on what wheel/forks/brakes you use, this width needs to be taken into consideration for the size spacer you need. (Was simple for me, Ruck Tree, Ruck, Wheels, Ruck Spacer).

Big Shout-out to HotHatch & GearHart for assisting me with this phase of the project! :2thumbs:
Compliments to Brandon with SSS (AKA G9) and Ryan with TRS for the bling!
Use bikebandit as a source for OEM parts and diagrams!

It may not be kosher to use Ruck parts on a Spree, but it sure as hèll is AWESOME! :rock:

RIDE SAFE!
(I think i posted this in the right thread, if not move it, and make it a STICKY!)

_________________
87' Spree: "Victoria's Spreecret"
78' Express:


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2017 3:59 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 22, 2008 4:09 pm
Posts: 10851
Location: Deepinnaharta, Texas
Greetings:

Very nice job, R1. Thanks for the hard work and beautiful explanations.
:hi:
Edit: adding my thanks for the contribution and accolades for superb work...motormike.


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