K&N Air filter discussion, Spree

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noiseguy
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Post by noiseguy »

Played around with a K&N cone filter and my little pile of jets. The #65 with the stock airbox still gives me the best performance, around 33 MPH.

The K&N filter, with a #78 jet, would barely get going. I couldn't get it above 20, it just made a loud "BOGGGG" sound when cracked open.

The K&N filter with a #68 jet, wouldn't go over 10. At WOT it would literally kill the engine.

You guys that are actually getting pod filters to work need to tell me what you're doing different. I might as well run no filter; it just won't go. The K&N filter looks cool though. Chrome cap. Shame.

With a #68 jet and the airbox in place, it will top out at 30-31. Which is actually slower.

I built a custom cone filter using a stock Spree carb-to-airbox duct, so that it had the bellmouth end and correct length. This worked fine, but was no improvement. I think that I actually need to make a shorter bellmouth, then stick the cone filter over that. A shorter length bell should complement the higher RPM that the engine runs at with the new pipe.
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Post by MYSTERE1 »

thats funny that the k&n filter dosn't work for you. How did you mount it? Take a pic and let me see. maybe I can help you.

I used a 70 main jet befor i filed the intake. then i had to jump to an 80. My lady has my digital camera in Ontario right now so i cant show you my set up untill she gets back on the weekend. also try adjusting the air fule mixture screw. every one saya its only for idle but i find i have to tune with it to get rid of any bog at full thottel then set the idel screw after.
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Post by vette76 »

i had a 95 in my dio. with no filter. worked fine. i put the stock back so i could run a filter. (airbox).
00' sa-50 slammed and stretched
89' elite sb, with a 99' af16, (SOLD)
87' spree (SOLD
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Post by noiseguy »

I'll get some pics. The K&N that I'm running has no internal bell mouth. If you don't know what that is, look at the airbox end of the stock airbox tube. I'm wondering if that has anything to do with it.
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Post by noiseguy »

Here's a couple that I've tried:

Image

Top one is a lawnmower element cobbled onto a Spree inlet. Didn't help or hurt.

Bottom one is a K&N that fits, product code RC2540. 1 1/4" diameter mouth. Otherwise known as the bogger. Can't get it to work. Looks k00l though.
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Post by vette76 »

lol. the bogger.
00' sa-50 slammed and stretched
89' elite sb, with a 99' af16, (SOLD)
87' spree (SOLD
87' mustang gt vert kenne bell, irs.
90' mustang notch turbo drag car
12' wrx
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Post by burnt_toast »

is the k&n oiled? might not be an issue, but it might help.
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Post by noiseguy »

burnt_toast wrote:is the k&n oiled? might not be an issue, but it might help.
Yes.
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Post by vette76 »

isnt it paper?
00' sa-50 slammed and stretched
89' elite sb, with a 99' af16, (SOLD)
87' spree (SOLD
87' mustang gt vert kenne bell, irs.
90' mustang notch turbo drag car
12' wrx
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Post by noiseguy »

The bottom one is the oiled K&N (thus the red color) with no internal velocity stack (aka bell mouth.)

The upper is made from a baby food jar lid, part of a yogurt container for the cap, the unoiled paper element from a cylinderical lawn-mower filter, and a bunch of latex caulk as sealant. I had no intention of running this for long, just to see if it would work. You wouldn't oil this type of filter; it wouldn't breath at all. And it works "fine" as is.
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Post by vette76 »

thats what i was wondering when u said it was oiled. i misunderstood.
00' sa-50 slammed and stretched
89' elite sb, with a 99' af16, (SOLD)
87' spree (SOLD
87' mustang gt vert kenne bell, irs.
90' mustang notch turbo drag car
12' wrx
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Post by MYSTERE1 »

That K&N filter looks just like mine. mine is mounted directly to the carb. Try going to a larger jet still. maybe with that pipe and running at a higher rpm your drawing in more air faster than that jet can add enough fuel.
Mystere

1985 Honda Spree.
Front pully mod, 1" longer belt,
gutted pipe, K&N air filter, #80 main jet,
Intake mod, Leo Vince clutch springs,
40 MPH top speed.
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Post by maddog »

I hate to say it but thats a full chamber pipe thats made for a large bore/stroker engine that runs full throttle on a tight race track. My stroker aero runs the same diameter down tube with a semi chambered pipe, sooo! for your stock bore you would want to keep the stock spree down tube and splice in either a stock elite-s or aero exhaust about 7 in. down or line up the exhaust mounts and find the best cut, remember you have a stock bore so the mods must kept simple, a 15mm carb will help & blaster coil.
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Post by noiseguy »

Yes, I think the pipe's a little large, even if it was meant for a 50cc pocketbike. Since the powerband isn't good at the low end, my plan was to run stiffer clutch springs, and raise the engagement RPM higher, and more into this pipe's power band. There's just not much you can do with this trans. You are right, this type of design is meant for bikes with clutches and transmissions.

From the outside visually, I don't see what the Aero/Elite exhaust would get you that you can't get from gutting out a stock Spree pipe. I've halved a Spree pipe to look inside, and end up cutting off the back 3 baffles and welding it back up. I didn't touch the absorber material, getting that out would have been my next step.

Anyone played with fitting a 15mm carb to this? I wonder if a pocketbike version would work? They're everywhere, and cheap cheap cheap.
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Post by maddog »

You need to keep the stock exhaust flange & pipe to match the exhaust port and then build up the chambers, we use the stock pipe for the 72cc bore kits with no performance loss & the 65cc aero kit is the same, dellorto makes a 15mm carb just match it up to your intake.
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