Junkyard Zuma

Mystic · Post by **Mystic** » Fri Jul 20, 2012 3:24 pm

Thanks noiseguy but I am not sure I follow you I have already taken the resevoir part off the bike and soaking it in PB. Not sure how to do what you suggested. Also thanks downsouthdio just post what you got and we will go from there

Post by **noiseguy** » Sat Jul 21, 2012 12:19 am

Mystic wrote:Thanks noiseguy but I am not sure I follow you I have already taken the resevoir part off the bike and soaking it in PB.

? The reservoir? You mean, the master cylinder? Is it the master cylinder that you can't get apart, or the slave cylinder (brake cylinder, caliper, all same thing) ?

If it's the caliper you're taking apart: you'll need to put the system back together, and re-fill with fluid, to do what I proposed. The easiest way to get the caliper's piston out is with the master cylinder and line, assembled, filled, and bled. If the MC is toast, rebuild it, then reassemble the rest.

You can *try* using air pressure on the fluid inlet of the caliper to blow it out. Given the rusty condition of the rest of the bikes internals, I'm betting this won't work... but worth a try. Have some rags handy... this operation is messy and the piston can shoot off like a pop-gun when it goes.

If it's the master cylinder you're trying to take apart: remove lever. There's a rubber cap (usually), remove that first. Underneath will be a metal circlip... you'll need a special tool for that. Then the rest will pull out easily (plunger, spring). Inspect parts and get a rebuild kit if needed. Otherwise clean, buff inside of MC with 320 green pad, and reassemble.

If it's still not clear, post some pictures of what you're working on (stuck on) and they might help me describe it better... I may not be following what you're trying to accomplish.

Don't get the special tool with interchangable bits, BTW. Those things are useless for this particular job. Get the right size or an assortment:

Mystic · Post by **Mystic** » Sat Jul 21, 2012 12:45 am

Yea its the master cylinder that is rusted. I pulled the rubber out and could see the snap ring in there but it was so badly rusted i couldnt get it to budge either so I just put it back together till I can find one of those ring tools. I saw on the parts fiche where I can order a master cylinder replacement kit IF I can ever get the old one out lol Havent even checked the brake caliper. The brake line didnt appear to be stopped up nor the bolt that holds the hose to the master cylinder so hopefully that part is fine I guess I could take a good one off a 4 wheeler or something to test the brake to see if it needs work

Post by **noiseguy** » Sat Jul 21, 2012 8:58 am

OK. Soak the entire MC in penetrating oil and run down one of the ring tools. They're sized by the diameter of the holes in the circlip. In the meantime, if it's very rusty, as a first step, get an awl and try to get the circlip to move in a circle in it's groove by hooking the awl into one of the circlip ends, and pushing that end of the circlip towards the other. This usually breaks the ring loose. If not, do same to other side. When you're done, the ring should be able to move around in a circle in the MC bore. Then, it's ready to remove. Rebuild kits are typically cheap... $20 or so. Not much to them.

Any MC with the same inner diameter will functionally interchange, BTW, and any MC at all will work for testing your setup. ID is listed on the outside of the MC casting, usually. So if you have another one around, you can use that.

If your MC is that bad, chances are the caliper will be seized as well. If it is, rebuild it. If the piston has rust on internals, replace it. If only mild rust above seal line, replacement is your call. The caliper "rebuild kit" is just 1 or 2 rings inside the cylinder. Use a hex tool to clean the gunk out of the cylinder ring landings (yellowish stuff) and buff out the inside with 320 scotchbrite until smooth. Then reassemble.

Take care with the caliper bleed screw, BTW. They like to break, esp when seized in place, and it's a PIA when they do.

Jeez. This would all be in a Wiki if the Honda's used these systems in any of their common bikes

Mystic · Post by **Mystic** » Sat Jul 21, 2012 9:15 am

hahhah thanks noiseguy that should be all I need to know to fix that part of the bike. I have never really messed with the disk brakes. My 4 wheeler has front hydralic brakes but they stopped working and I have never fooled with it since I can just gear down to stop

Mystic · Post by **Mystic** » Mon Jul 23, 2012 1:05 am

Been wrenching on the zuma here and there. I did the dual headlight mod yesterday and I installed blinker housings into the blank spaces in the taillight assembly like the JDM tails. Turned out pretty good. Now I gotta take all the plastics back off and paint the silver a vibrant shade of Green and heat gun the molded black plastic. Trying to do everything I can without spending any money or very little. I sold that chinese Jonway Robot a few hours ago for 300 and a winchester 12ga shotgun hahahha now i have a few dollars to replace the entire CVT and some other parts

motormike · Post by **motormike** » Mon Jul 23, 2012 2:07 am

I could use a 12 gauge...for some trap shooting...

Whut kind is it ? You figurrrin, on sellin' hit ?....(smilie chewing tobacco)

Mystic · Post by **Mystic** » Mon Jul 23, 2012 8:28 am

yea I am probably gonna sell it, it is a winchester 12gauge automatic model 1400, I reckin its guud fer shotin varmints

Post by **noiseguy** » Mon Jul 23, 2012 10:37 am

A 410 or 20ga would be a better varmint gun. This gun, in 20ga form, is what I use when I'm up North hunting with the inlaws. Not a bad rifle at all.

Mystic · Post by **Mystic** » Mon Jul 23, 2012 1:02 pm

Yea that is what I prefer a 20ga if I am rabbit hunting but mostly if I shoot guns, which is rarely I just shoot targets or something. Not a big fan of killing anything but fish lol I was just ready to get rid of that chinese scooter.

Dio89Elite · Post by **Dio89Elite** » Mon Jul 23, 2012 3:04 pm

very cool.

love to see these junkyard dogs being spotted and given a lil TLC and up and running

Mystic · Post by **Mystic** » Mon Jul 23, 2012 3:16 pm

hhahha all my scoots have been revived from the dead. This zuma was in need of more than a lil TLC, more like plastic surgery

Post by **noiseguy** » Mon Jul 23, 2012 7:19 pm

With plastics like that, I've had good luck with applying tape to outside, and epoxy / mesh on back. Thin repair, permanent, paintable, no screws.

Mystic · Post by **Mystic** » Mon Jul 23, 2012 7:59 pm

I tried epoxy without much luck. Even with the stabilizing bolt the headlight assembly being metal and glass weighs heavily on this area of the plastics. Most all of hte plastics have cracks and some broken mounts so there are plenty of screws holding hte plastic on that arent supposed to be there already, its like a frankenstein lol plus i just pained the rear plastics grass green so the visible cracks and screws just give it character. I plan on replacing all the colored panels eventually as a set so not trying to make these perfect. Good idea with the tape on the front hadnt thought of that though i did smear expoxy on the back of all the cracks

Mystic · Post by **Mystic** » Tue Jul 24, 2012 6:47 pm

Got the rest painted and the floorboard and belly heat guned. Now waiting on my parts to come in and gotta find the headlight cover, front fender, and a seat cover and I will pretty much be done with the cosmetic aspect of this scooter. Of course I gotta get me some decals but that goes without saying

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