Crankcase Drain Hole

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kyle3194
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Crankcase Drain Hole

Post by kyle3194 »

Hey everyone,

I have somewhat recently acquired 2 85 sprees. These were my Uncle's and I am not sure the last time they ran. (one has an '08 registration, one has a '04 registration). Anyway, I got one of them up and running in the last few days, and began to work on the second. So far, I have:

Drained fuel and oil tanks, cleaned air filter, and replaced the plug. (This was pretty much all that was required to get the first running, lucky I know). After doing this, I tried to start the second. Here are the issues I now have:

With the plug installed, I get one "pop" off of the cylinder exhausting, and then it more or less locks up. (I can hear the starter spinning, but crank is obviously not spinning). When I take the plug out, the crank spins, and oil does shoot out of the cylinder. While reviewing this forum, sounds like my crank case is probably full of oil and not allowing the piston to stroke downward.

My question to all is: How about drilling and tapping a drain hole in the bottom of the crank case? I know most recommend pulling the engine and flipping it over, but this seems like a decent option if the same issue was to arise again.

Thanks everyone, looking forward to getting these two up and running to cruise around town on.
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Re: Crankcase Drain Hole

Post by ntonar »

Do not drill and tap a hole in the case. I would take the oil pump off and drain from there.
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noiseguy
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Re: Crankcase Drain Hole

Post by noiseguy »

Don't drill a hole in case. Remove oil pump and flip the motor. This only happens with engines left for storage a long time; it's unlikely to repeat.
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kyle3194
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Re: Crankcase Drain Hole

Post by kyle3194 »

Thanks guys, yea it wasnt too bad to flip and drain. Took the opportunity to clean the carb and bake the muffler as well. Seems to be running pretty good! Crank case appears to be getting a little warm after ~5min or so of idle. Any insight as to crankcase temp?

As background, I checked the oil level before starting, and after idling for a while, the case got warm enough for me to be concerned. Went ahead and drained the case, and the oil that came out was pretty runny for 40 weight I thought (albeit it was warm) but no sparkles atleast. Filled back up with 10w-30 (all I had on hand) and seems to be not getting as warm now. I do hear some bearing noise when spinning the back wheel by hand, but it seems to spin pretty freely. (I will be replacing with 10w-40 soon).

Do you think this is damming enough to pull the case and check on the bearings? Or is this to be expected?

Thanks everyone,
-Kyle
btosi
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Re: Crankcase Drain Hole

Post by btosi »

This is a 2 stroke right? Where did you put the 10-30? There should not be any oil in the crank case besides what the oil injection puts in.
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Wheelman-111
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Re: Crankcase Drain Hole

Post by Wheelman-111 »

Greetings:

Being an Internal Combustion engine, all its metal parts will soon become "a little warm", that is to say much too hot to touch. The only temperature that matters is the on in the cylinder head, at the spark plug, which should not exceed 400. Lots of inexpensive temperature gauges out there that are easy to install and a great help for tuning. The TrailTech Vapor is pricier but even more help, can be set to provide an accurate speedometer too..
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eclark5483
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Re: Crankcase Drain Hole

Post by eclark5483 »

Get rid of that regular oil and use 2 stroke oil. Personally, I use Pro Honda GN2 injector oil. Others have their own brand of choice.
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bonesv
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Re: Crankcase Drain Hole

Post by bonesv »

He’s talking about the gear case oil which I assume he measured the 3oz. of 30w oil into.
I don’t understand how the gear case could become hot just at idle for 5 min.? 🤔
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kyle3194
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Re: Crankcase Drain Hole

Post by kyle3194 »

Sorry yes gear case not crankcase. And yea I mean not like 400 F or anything. Maybe 140 or so. Just kind of interesting I guess. I guess my plan will be just to keep an eye on it. No one here seems too concerned. Time to clean them up an see how they run side by side!
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Re: Crankcase Drain Hole

Post by benji »

Aluminum is a good conductor of heat, so I'm guessing it's the motor heat traveling to the back of the case to the differential. Although, you may want to check the clutch. A spring could be weak, causing it to allow a clutch pad to slightly touch the bell at idle. That would cause some heat in the rear of the case.
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